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bstone

wiring issue

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My 95 was randomly stalling out.  Found out that if i moved the wiring connections right by the battery (not the battery cables) I could get it to stall.  Connector is a 2 wire that goes into a 1 wire, and plugs into a plug that is attached to the side of the positive terminal.  Figured those wires were loose so I cleaned everything up and put it back together, and now nothing- turn the key, no dash lights, no start.  Any ideas?  This was a pretty simple situation with the wiring...  did I trip some sort of safety thing?  Car has a factory alarm system, but I always keep it turned off with the switch on the console...

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Were those the little orange wires? Those should be thick and tight since they are 75amp or 100amp fusible links.... Your problem, methinks, was there long before you took the wires off! If she was stalling when you were moving them around then they have already been overheated and melted inside their liners. Basically you need to get some more (pick-n-pull is a good place to start) fusible links!

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Sounds like the black and green wire fusible link is bad. New, you might be able to get lucky and find one at a nearby dealership. They are not too expensive, but cheaper in your local salvage yard. 87-95 Hardbody pick up has the same as the 87-95 Pathfinder, so you are more likely to find a good one in the pick up, at least it gives you more options. 

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Thanks for the responses, guys.  You hit it on the head, it is the black/green connector that was "shorting", and thats the one I fiddled with.  I didn't realize it was a fusible link.  Looks much different than the fusible links I've seen in the past.  I just thought it was a connector.

 

Found one on ebay from a Nissan parts house in AZ, so I'm probably going to just order it from there.  Dealers are closed here now, so maybe I'll wait and check on Monday and see if I can get lucky..

 

Thanks again!

Brady

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Yep, us old guys lived with the wire type fusible links. The way to check them for failure is to gently pull on them. If they are burned, they stretch. They are just a lighter gage wire (rule of thumb is 4 sizes smaller than the circuit wire they are protecting) with special insulation that is not supposed to burn. I thought back in the early 80's when I started doing diagnostics, that it was cool that Nissan made them plug into the wiring rather than crimped in like the domestics did. The different colors was a nice touch too. The domestics just had them in black with a tag showing the size. 

Then they came out with the maxi-fuse style and that was just brilliant. Another future modification to my Pathy down the road. 

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The maxi-fuse style does seem like a better way to go, though I doubt I'll mess with mine until I manage to smoke one. Any idea what amperage the stock links are rated for?

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10 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

Yep, us old guys lived with the wire type fusible links. The way to check them for failure is to gently pull on them. If they are burned, they stretch. They are just a lighter gage wire (rule of thumb is 4 sizes smaller than the circuit wire they are protecting) with special insulation that is not supposed to burn. I thought back in the early 80's when I started doing diagnostics, that it was cool that Nissan made them plug into the wiring rather than crimped in like the domestics did. The different colors was a nice touch too. The domestics just had them in black with a tag showing the size. 

Then they came out with the maxi-fuse style and that was just brilliant. Another future modification to my Pathy down the road. 

Ahh, so this is a bit sneaky - "with special insulation that is not supposed to burn"..  In the sense that it wouldn't be obvious at first glance that it had fried...  So mine is probably fried inside and I didn't know it.  Therefore, trying to "re-terminate" the ends using the same wire was an exercise in futility from the start, i'm guessing...

 

 

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13 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

Yep, us old guys lived with the wire type fusible links. The way to check them for failure is to gently pull on them. If they are burned, they stretch. They are just a lighter gage wire (rule of thumb is 4 sizes smaller than the circuit wire they are protecting) with special insulation that is not supposed to burn. I thought back in the early 80's when I started doing diagnostics, that it was cool that Nissan made them plug into the wiring rather than crimped in like the domestics did. The different colors was a nice touch too. The domestics just had them in black with a tag showing the size. 

Then they came out with the maxi-fuse style and that was just brilliant. Another future modification to my Pathy down the road. 

Cross your jumper cables and you will definitely smoke that wire 😭😭

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Replaced the link, and good to go now.  Started right up.  I have a spare on the way as well..  Thanks to all for the replies.  I appreciate it!

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On 6/1/2019 at 1:42 PM, bstone said:

Thanks for the responses, guys.  You hit it on the head, it is the black/green connector that was "shorting", and thats the one I fiddled with.  I didn't realize it was a fusible link.  Looks much different than the fusible links I've seen in the past.  I just thought it was a connector.

 

Found one on ebay from a Nissan parts house in AZ, so I'm probably going to just order it from there.  Dealers are closed here now, so maybe I'll wait and check on Monday and see if I can get lucky..

 

Thanks again!

Brady

Do you have part # for the ones you found new?

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17 minutes ago, Bubbles said:

Do you have part # for the ones you found new?

 

Yep, Nissan part #  24022-01G00 .  This is for the black/green wired one.  

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fb1d4657c3cc0d5d517087c5288355d2.jpg
I too had that same issue but it wasn’t in the harness by the battery. My old factory alarm system was giving me all kinds of hell. Slow start, dim lights, stumbling like crazy, very slow windows. As soon as I ripped this crap out that all went away. It was all located under the driver seat.85a5fb951e9e297f455dd366e2b5054b.jpg


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The alarm system shouldn't be able to cause all that. It's got a cutoff for the starter (or my '93 did at least, my '95 didn't, though it had probably been tampered with), and taps into the marker light circuit, but AFAIK there's no tie-in to the ECU or power windows. May well share a fuse link with that stuff, though.

 

Also in case you didn't know, the other module (the rounded one with the lines) isn't alarm-related, that's the ABS computer.

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The alarm system shouldn't be able to cause all that. It's got a cutoff for the starter (or my '93 did at least, my '95 didn't, though it had probably been tampered with), and taps into the marker light circuit, but AFAIK there's no tie-in to the ECU or power windows. May well share a fuse link with that stuff, though.
 
Also in case you didn't know, the other module (the rounded one with the lines) isn't alarm-related, that's the ABS computer.

ABS huh? O_o yea I think I will throw that back in there. But it’s funny there was no abs light on the dash? Unless me completely removing it won’t cause a light. Nevertheless I will be putting that back in.


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The ABS computer is what the warning light is wired to. No computer, no light. Not like newer rigs where everything talks to everything else and notices when somebody leaves the chat.

 

You can get the service manual here if you haven't yet. Circuit diagrams, component locations, troubleshooting. Doesn't cover the alarm system, annoyingly, but does cover just about everything else.

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