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6" SFD with 6" lift build questions


mandersen8
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I will provide a full write up once I have finished.

 

I have started a 6" SFD with a 6" lift

 

Items used:

  • AC coils 2" lift
  • OME struts
  • F250 pro comp shock
  • WJ coils for rear
  • SFD blocks and spacer

Have some question for those of you who have done this

 

  1. anyone run into transmission cross member hitting?
  2. What brand of break line have you used?\\
  3. Who would want a SFD 4" or 6" taking a poll to see what the need is maybe building and sell them soon

Will post picture shortly.

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4 minutes ago, QuasarDecimari said:

If you’re doing a 6” SFD you will need to drop the transmission crossmember. I dropped mine 2” with the 6” SFD.

Oh ok. Do you have a picture of this? I just need to visually see what needs to happen. Also is there anything else that you feel I should know with the 6" SFD?

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For brake lines, buy a model year 2000 frontier/Xterra brakeline. They’re like $12 at advance auto, direct fit into a pathfinder. At least for the rear.

Edited by PathyDude17
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Oh ok. Do you have a picture of this? I just need to visually see what needs to happen. Also is there anything else that you feel I should know with the 6" SFD?


I don’t have any pictures currently but I’ll get some as soon as I can. Really, I just used 2x2 inch square tube and cut them to 6” lengths, measured the bolt spacing for the transmission mount and crossmember mounts, and used a drill press to do the drilling (the bolts are rather large). Unfortunately I didn’t document this, but it’s easily obtainable with a caliper/micrometer.
You’ll need to make sure you get your math correct for lengthening the steering linkage. Most information available is for the 4” SFD, so calculate accordingly with simple trigonometry.
Unless the angles of the strut spacers are corrected, be prepared for excessive camber without proper suspension geometry.
Make sure you unbolt the power steering lines from the subframe before moving it down, so that you can reposition them and drill new holes to bolt onto later, otherwise you’ll have a fun mess to clean up.
You probably already know. But the engine must remain in its factory position, so 6” spacers will be needed to support the engine. I STRONGLY advise swapping the engine and transmission mounts while you’re in there, since they’ll be exposed and easily accessible.
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On 4/25/2019 at 2:47 PM, mandersen8 said:

I will provide a full write up once I have finished.

 

I have started a 6" SFD with a 6" lift

 

Items used:

  • AC coils 2" lift
  • OME struts
  • F250 pro comp shock
  • WJ coils for rear
  • SFD blocks and spacer

Have some question for those of you who have done this

 

  1. anyone run into transmission cross member hitting?
  2. What brand of break line have you used?\\
  3. Who would want a SFD 4" or 6" taking a poll to see what the need is maybe building and sell them soon

Will post picture shortly.

I knotched my corssmember a little bit to clear the DS, but then again i have a different setup than just a 6" sfd.

 

As far as building them goes, unless you have a superior design to the one that's coming out soon, id recommend straying from the market. In my experience, 1 out of the 50 people that messages you and says they are definitely interested in buying and will do so soon, will actually buy. Be weary when taking a poll, because you'll get lots of interest, but hardly anyone follows through. I believe this is because these kits run a good amount of money (a full sfd is going to run around 1000$+) and generally people who drive pathfinders do so for a reason (because they are probably on a budget and the car fit the budget). 

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1 hour ago, johann_peralta said:

I knotched my corssmember a little bit to clear the DS, but then again i have a different setup than just a 6" sfd.

 

As far as building them goes, unless you have a superior design to the one that's coming out soon, id recommend straying from the market. In my experience, 1 out of the 50 people that messages you and says they are definitely interested in buying and will do so soon, will actually buy. Be weary when taking a poll, because you'll get lots of interest, but hardly anyone follows through. I believe this is because these kits run a good amount of money (a full sfd is going to run around 1000$+) and generally people who drive pathfinders do so for a reason (because they are probably on a budget and the car fit the budget). 

Just to add a little justification for the cost, even building your own kit isn’t cheap. I just added up what it would cost me to replicate everything on my truck as it currently sits, and it’s right around $600 that I have in it. That not only includes the material to fabricate the sfd components, but also the front and rear HD springs, extended shocks, limit straps, etc.. Once you factor in the labor time to fabricate the kit, and the fact that there needs to be enough profit to make it worth your while, there is a good reason that it isn’t cheap to buy a good pre-made sfd kit. 

 

If you’re not trying to make a profit, have the means, and just want to make a kit for your personal rig, then the DIY approach definitely saves some money. 

 

This also makes a good argument for waiting for the upcoming “pines to spines” kit. As I understand it, they are making the components modular, so if budget is a concern you can start with getting the parts for a mild lift, and then “grow into” bigger lifts later on by adding onto the basic kit. Correct me if I’m wrong on that....

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That is the way I understood the plan. Real cool idea. Hope to see some of those bits rolling off the assembly line soon

Sent from my BLA-A09 using Tapatalk

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To comment to all,

 

Yes, I understand the risk of building this out for pple. It not cheap I have easily dropped 2K into this adventure. However, I bought the pathy bc I did not spend alot on it and could through money into it.

 

Question does any one know for woodward steering link how long the shaft will need to be between the Ujoints? 

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