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JackFletcher

Necessary to re gear?

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Hello NPORA, in the coming month or so I plan to go ahead and lift my pathy. Yall have given me lots of information over the past 6 months and I have learned a lot. Today I was just going over some threads and reading about Lokka and LSD swaps while bored in class and i was getting confused about gear ratios and stuff like that. Then I watched a video on youtube about gear ratios and they explained it well. Also how they all connect with your engine, trans, tires and diff. Most people haven't mentioned it in any of their mild to mid builds so i figured that as long as you werent doing a sfd and trying to fit 33´+ tires that a regear wouldnt be necessary. Just to make sure I wanted to ask yall if i need to regear and what I can expect in performance changes. I plan on running 32s maybe something like them falken wild peak a/ts. Talked to some guys on instagram and they both said great things about the lr9449 and ac springs so that is what i will go with. 

 

Thanks 

Fletch

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I have no complaints running 33” mud tires with the stock gears. The truck still has plenty of power for daily driving and can still cruise 75-80 mph on the highway no problem. My speedometer is off about 3 mph but that doesn’t bother me. As long as you have a newer R50 with the vq35 then gears are not a necessity at all. Nice to have sure, but not necessary. The older rigs with the vg33 may be a different story. 

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Your gear ratio choices are limited on an R50, unfortunately. Hawairish explained it pretty well here. If you've got 4.3 gears, you could swap them for 4.6 gears, but those are the only two ratios available for the front diff.

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9 hours ago, Bax03SE said:

I have no complaints running 33” mud tires with the stock gears. The truck still has plenty of power for daily driving and can still cruise 75-80 mph on the highway no problem. My speedometer is off about 3 mph but that doesn’t bother me. As long as you have a newer R50 with the vq35 then gears are not a necessity at all. Nice to have sure, but not necessary. The older rigs with the vg33 may be a different story. 

Alright great to know. My vehicle is going to be daily driven and used on the highway so im glad to hear that you havent had issues with even bigger tires than what  I was going with. Btw awesome build!! I have been following your thread and I am amazed at how fast you get stuff done lol

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Sure you can get along fine without gearing, but your life will be a lot better if you do. If you have the HG46 (4.63) already then you're set. If you have the HG43 right now (4.36) it would definitely be worth your while to locate a set of the 463's to swap in. To give you some perspective, my tan rig (5 speed + 463's) can hold 80mph in 5th gear coming home from work on the highway. Doing the exact same drive in my red one, it loses speed if you're in any gear higher than 3rd and will only hold 75 tops (in 3rd). This mostly shows that the automatic sucks, but the gearing does make a big difference. My buddy Doug just put 32's on his and you don't even notice the size difference with the manual and 463's, whereas theres a huge loss in power with the auto and 436's

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11 hours ago, micahfelker said:

Sure you can get along fine without gearing, but your life will be a lot better if you do. If you have the HG46 (4.63) already then you're set. If you have the HG43 right now (4.36) it would definitely be worth your while to locate a set of the 463's to swap in. To give you some perspective, my tan rig (5 speed + 463's) can hold 80mph in 5th gear coming home from work on the highway. Doing the exact same drive in my red one, it loses speed if you're in any gear higher than 3rd and will only hold 75 tops (in 3rd). This mostly shows that the automatic sucks, but the gearing does make a big difference. My buddy Doug just put 32's on his and you don't even notice the size difference with the manual and 463's, whereas theres a huge loss in power with the auto and 436's

Agree gears matter, but I think the engine matters more. The earlier rigs with the vg33 are effected a lot more than the vq35 powered trucks. I’m not saying my truck will win any drag races, but with the vq, heavy 33” mud terrains, and the 4.36 gears I can still break the rear tires loose at a stop light and easily hold a steady cruise of 75-80 on the highway.  It’s amazing how much of a difference the extra 60-70 hp between the two engines can make. 

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Agree gears matter, but I think the engine matters more. The earlier rigs with the vg33 are effected a lot more than the vq35 powered trucks. I’m not saying my truck will win any drag races, but with the vq, heavy 33” mud terrains, and the 4.36 gears I can still break the rear tires loose at a stop light and easily hold a steady cruise of 75-80 on the highway.  It’s amazing how much of a difference the extra 60-70 hp between the two engines can make. 

Friggin 33...
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8 hours ago, Bax03SE said:

Agree gears matter, but I think the engine matters more. The earlier rigs with the vg33 are effected a lot more than the vq35 powered trucks. I’m not saying my truck will win any drag races, but with the vq, heavy 33” mud terrains, and the 4.36 gears I can still break the rear tires loose at a stop light and easily hold a steady cruise of 75-80 on the highway.  It’s amazing how much of a difference the extra 60-70 hp between the two engines can make. 

 

I'd agree with this.  My 3.5L QX4 with the 4.363 gears had smaller (but heavy load E) 32's but it didn't seem to struggle at all.  It seemed to cruise at higher speeds just fine, but I don't remember exactly since I learned to be happy at 70.  If a set of nice gears had fallen in my lap I guess I'd have put em in, but I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way for it.

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Sometimes it would take a while after accelerating to highway speeds to decide to hit overdrive, but idk how much gears would help that.

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Sometimes it would take a while after accelerating to highway speeds to decide to hit overdrive, but idk how much gears would help that.

How do I find out what gears I got?


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56 minutes ago, JackFletcher said:

How do I find out what gears I got?

 

4.363...only thing that came in 04's.

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4.363...only thing that came in 04's.

Thank you


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4 hours ago, JackFletcher said:


How do I find out what gears I got?


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Your question is already answered lol but for future reference (if you're looking at junkyard rigs or whatever) the vin plate on the firewall will say either HG43 or HG46 on it. HG43=4.36's and HG46=4.63's

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14 hours ago, Bax03SE said:

Agree gears matter, but I think the engine matters more. The earlier rigs with the vg33 are effected a lot more than the vq35 powered trucks. I’m not saying my truck will win any drag races, but with the vq, heavy 33” mud terrains, and the 4.36 gears I can still break the rear tires loose at a stop light and easily hold a steady cruise of 75-80 on the highway.  It’s amazing how much of a difference the extra 60-70 hp between the two engines can make. 

 

Yeah true... I was just thinking about the difference between my two, kinda overlooked that lol. Sure wish I had those extra ponies lol

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4.363...only thing that came in 04's.

i wonder if that’s the same for 03s


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3 hours ago, spicyheckboi said:


i wonder if that’s the same for 03s emoji848.png


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Yes, 03 and 04 both the same.

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01-04 all 4.363 only, actually.  96-00 had both gears, though 4.636 was part of an optional package.

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Throwing my opinion in, and echoing other comments, gearing probably not necessary if you have the 3.5L.  I swapped to 4.636 when I put my Lokka and re-packed LSD.  Don't recall if I did that when I had 31" or 32" tires.  My distinct opinion on that first test drive was that the truck was that it had a lot more get-up-and-go than before.  However, my MPG has been poor (I'm blaming the O2 sensors) for a while and the RPMs tend to run a little higher than I'd like at highway speeds.  However, I re-geared for trail usage.

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While this is still on the front page, any insight on regearing with a VQ manual tranny?  With my 265/75/16 tires I definitely notice that I have to slip the clutch more to get going from a stop, and crawling in 4lo is a little too fast.  Some extra pep in lower gears and a lower crawl ratio would be nice.  Do you guys think 4.6's would be a noticeable change with a manual?

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Posted (edited)
On 4/16/2019 at 12:14 PM, JackFletcher said:

Hello NPORA, in the coming month or so I plan to go ahead and lift my pathy. Yall have given me lots of information over the past 6 months and I have learned a lot. Today I was just going over some threads and reading about Lokka and LSD swaps while bored in class and i was getting confused about gear ratios and stuff like that. Then I watched a video on youtube about gear ratios and they explained it well. Also how they all connect with your engine, trans, tires and diff. Most people haven't mentioned it in any of their mild to mid builds so i figured that as long as you werent doing a sfd and trying to fit 33´+ tires that a regear wouldnt be necessary. Just to make sure I wanted to ask yall if i need to regear and what I can expect in performance changes. I plan on running 32s maybe something like them falken wild peak a/ts. Talked to some guys on instagram and they both said great things about the lr9449 and ac springs so that is what i will go with. 

 

Thanks 

Fletch

The landrover 2" lift springs are great, finally put mine in last weekend. Easiest way is to unbolt the cross arm that bolts to the panhard bracket, remove lower rear sway link bolts, pull the clip for the rear brake line and unbolt the brake line from the rear axel and get a big jack and wood blocks and jack the hell out of the rear on the spare tire or hitch it you have one. I was able to put my springs in by hand, no spring compressor.

Edited by bertrenolds
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The landrover 2" lift springs are great, finally put mine in last weekend. Easiest way is to unbolt the cross arm that bolts to the panhard bracket, remove lower rear sway link bolts, pull the clips for the rear brake line and unbolt the brake line from the rear axel and get a big jack and wood block and jack the hell out of the rear on the spare tire or hitch it you have one. I was able to put my springs in by hand, no spring compressor.

What is the stock number for the 2” lift springs you are referring to?


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Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, bertrenolds said:

The landrover 2" lift springs are great, finally put mine in last weekend. Easiest way is to unbolt the cross arm that bolts to the panhard bracket, remove lower rear sway link bolts, pull the clip for the rear brake line and unbolt the brake line from the rear axel and get a big jack and wood blocks and jack the hell out of the rear on the spare tire or hitch it you have one. I was able to put my springs in by hand, no spring compressor.

well documented instructions on how to install basically any rear spring/spacer. This is what I followed and is similar to what you said.

29 minutes ago, JackFletcher said:


What is the stock number for the 2” lift springs you are referring to?


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Refer to page 7 for all known springs and resulting lift heights (thread won’t embed, search Land Rover rear lift spring install)

 

 

 

Edited by PathyDude17
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Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, JackFletcher said:


What is the stock number for the 2” lift springs you are referring to?


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I went with the 9447 from land rover direct and I am super happy. My truck rides 10 times better and hitting bumps doesn't thrown my truck all over the place. I can also load it down without bottoming out anymore. Rear the post that pathydude linked on the spring install, i was just gonna link it as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43810-land-rover-rear-lift-spring-install/page/8/

Edited by bertrenolds

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I went with the 9447 from land rover direct and I am super happy. My truck rides 10 times better and hitting bumps doesn't thrown my truck all over the place. I can also load it down without bottoming out anymore. Rear the post that pathydude linked on the spring install, i was just gonna link it as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43810-land-rover-rear-lift-spring-install/page/8/

I can’t decide on 9447 or 9449 lol I have till June to decide. I finally get some time off to work on this thing then


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On 4/19/2019 at 9:39 PM, hawairish said:

Throwing my opinion in, and echoing other comments, gearing probably not necessary if you have the 3.5L.  I swapped to 4.636 when I put my Lokka and re-packed LSD.  Don't recall if I did that when I had 31" or 32" tires.  My distinct opinion on that first test drive was that the truck was that it had a lot more get-up-and-go than before.  However, my MPG has been poor (I'm blaming the O2 sensors) for a while and the RPMs tend to run a little higher than I'd like at highway speeds.  However, I re-geared for trail usage.

Since your in here and thru my searching your the expert. I just looked and my 5 speed manual vg33 has a hg43 and i wanted to do a 4" lift and put 33s on but now after reading a bunch it doesn't sound like I should unless i can find a hg36 front and rear which is gonna cost a pretty penny. Will i be alright with 32s? I live in the mtns at elevation and climb a pass daily.

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