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Rodian Pro RA8 tires?


MTGunner
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Depending on how high you are lifting, and also on if you have camber bolts or not, I’m not even sure the angled strut spacers are completely necessary. For example I already have 2 inch spacers and am getting ready to add HD springs to get another inch or two. Since lifting via the springs only works within the existing travel range of the struts, it doesn’t change the CV angles at full droop any more than what it already is with just the spacers. Since I have camber bolts already, I have no concerns with getting the alignment in spec. At that point the only benefit of the SFD is to save the CV angle because the lift will have already been accomplished through the spacers and springs.  So if I end up doing a SFD down the road I’ll probably leave the struts as is instead of changing to the different spacer type. The bolts that hold the sub frame in have about half an inch of extra thread on them as is, so I think for the short term I’m going to just add some shims.  Half an inch may not be much, but I figure every little bit that helps protect the CV from binding on the trail can’t hurt. 

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I would avoid spacers. And Duratracs are made by Goodyear. I have the 10ply version which I'd definitely recommend over the lower rating. I've heard of the lower rated ones having problems with sidewalls when airing down, but I've had no issues

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I just posted this in a different thread but I'll paste it here too since it applies:

 

Here's my 2 cents. Lifting your rig is not going to devalue it at all, and any true car guy doesn't give a darn about value anyway, it's about what the car means to you. Lifting it is not gonna just make all your parts stop working all of a sudden or lead them to break more often than just driving the car is. As long as you do everything right you will have no problems. Increasing control arm angle theoretically wears it out faster but I've never had any problems with mine. As long as the angle is still within operating limits (in other words, as long as you don't use spacers) your cv's will still be within the limit they were designed to work at. I've said the same thing in another thread somewhere but basically you can put however much lift you want in the front as long as the spring still fits in the original strut. The cv axles were designed to work within the full range of suspension travel all the way up to full extension, so even if you could theoretically fit a spring in that held the strut all the way topped out all the time the axles would still work in 4wd fine. Of course you'd have other problems then but that's purely for example. You don't experience any problems until you add a spacer into the mix. Since a spacer goes on top of the strut it allows the suspension to drop to full extension PLUS however much the spacer adds, which allows the control arm and axles and whatnot to drop past the range in which they were meant to operate within. For example, if you have a 2" spacer on top of your strut, at full droop your wheel will be able to extend the full length of the topped out strut plus another 2 inches past, which is 2 inches lower than the axles were made to operate at. For the rear you can basically do whatever you want until you reach around 6" which is where you start running into driveshaft issues. 

 

Lifting your car isn't really gonna affect it negatively at all, it'll only benefit. You'll have more suspension travel, better handling and a better ride, better articulation, and have a way cooler car in general that can get places it couldn't before. When it comes down to it, lifting your car is making it way better, not worse. 

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To add just a little to Micah’s response regarding spacer lifts, he’s right that it puts the CV at greater risk of damage. With my 2 inch spacers (which yield approx 2.5 inches of lift), they definitely start to bind up at full strut extension. Meaning if it is lifted all the way to the point of the wheel hanging off the ground. This really isn’t a problem at all on the street, and if you’re mindful off road and take it slow it isn’t that big of a deal, but it is definitely a legitimate concern that does not come into play with spring only lifts. 

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13 hours ago, Astrorami said:

 

I completely agree with you on this. I will  be installing that Russian SFD kit sometime next month. Too bad no one makes a solid kit like the guys over in Russia.

How have I not heard about this?! Maybe cause I'm not on Facebook? Do they have a website or something?

 

Sorry @mtgunner, your thread kind of went astray.

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59 minutes ago, 01Pathmaker said:

How have I not heard about this?! Maybe cause I'm not on Facebook? Do they have a website or something?

 

Sorry @mtgunner, your thread kind of went astray.

The guys name is dimitri konalov. He’s on the pathfinder qx4 lift group

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I completely agree with you on this. I will  be installing that Russian SFD kit sometime next month. Too bad no one makes a solid kit like the guys over in Russia.

I would chat with@hawairish /@TowndawgR50 first (is that company name released yet or what guys?). I’ve seen pictures of the product they are developing and it is innovative and excellent. I don’t think it’s going to be very long now until they release it.
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No real reason. Just think it unnecessary with good tires and judicious off road  activity.  Here in the SW desert there is lots of trails, but no real rock climbing that I am in to. Yes, I do want to avoid cactus, mesquite thorns, some rocky terrain and etc. But, I do this as need be when I am out offroading. Just want best suitable safe options for my off road needs. Do not need to build a romping stomping off road machine. That I have in my Xterra at home in Montana.  If, in fact, I do decide to do a 2" suspension lift, which kit would I best choose? MTG  

 

Completely agree. I have >100K and most CO Passes under my belt with stock & Airlift 100s in the back. TONs of SW desert miles. I would consider the airlifts for a cheap & easy rear end sag fix, otherwise a spring - spacers really give you nothing but aesthetics. For easy drivability you probably would want to stick with OME/LR. I think the most perfect simple build I’ve seen is @02_Pathy (I don’t know why that reference never sticks). As he drove away last night, both[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & I spontaneously said to each other what a great looking truck it is. Straightforward, clean, practical build (& pretty too). Look for the IG photos because he’s taking it to UT soon.  

 

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This topic went way off topic.  But, @Astrorami is just pulling legs here.  I'll leave my opinion about what I think of that Russian kit out of this discussion (it'll come up elsewhere I'm sure).

 

@MTGunner, I don't have any experience with Nexen tires or those Rodians, but as a general perspective, we're quickly becoming a consumer base where once-thought "off-brand" tires are becoming "new-brand" tires that are probably worth a shot.  Consider that automakers have already begun making them OE, and that top retailers like Walmart and Tire Rack are willing to buy enough of them to push the brand.  I generally take that acceptance (and any underlying quality-assurance and certification processes) as a good sign that tire is of reasonable quality.

 

Tires are what I consider another totally subjective purchase item.  People love Duratracs, though I tend to hate them because I had a set that failed in ways that I don't think it should have.  Does it seem like a good tire?  Yes, and I liked them up until they failed on me.  Should that stop you from buying them?  No, not all.  But, I honestly feel anyone could have had the same experience with any set of tires.

 

That all said, if it reads like a good deal, meets your needs, carries a good warranty, and the majority of reviews are good, I'd totally give them a try.  

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4 hours ago, RainGoat said:


I would chat with@hawairish /@TowndawgR50 first (is that company name released yet or what guys?). I’ve seen pictures of the product they are developing and it is innovative and excellent. I don’t think it’s going to be very long now until they release it.

I’m skeptical about this Russian kit as well. I’ve not seen a single actual review of someone running them and I haven’t found anyone who has received one state side 

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This topic went way off topic.  But, [mention=41155]Astrorami[/mention] is just pulling legs here.  I'll leave my opinion about what I think of that Russian kit out of this discussion (it'll come up elsewhere I'm sure).


You got me. I was totally joking. I’ve seen the Russian stuff and it’s not for me. It may work but I can’t imagine great workmanship.


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Oh....sorry for never addressing the original question on this thread, but I would totally buy the Nexan Roadian pro, I almost bought that same tire a couple years ago, even going so far as to have a set mounted up. The reviews on them are really good and they looked great in person. The only reason I decided not to purchase them is because I was really trying to get tires that fit a certain “look” that I was after, and I decided I just wasn’t going to be happy with anything other than a mud tire. 

Edited by Bax03SE
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On 3/15/2019 at 2:06 PM, MTGunner said:

OK, have been searching tires for my 2000 SE. I have decided upon 265/70R16 with a 2” lift. Now, I have looked at many tires online and in Walmart. Has anyone experience with Nexen Roadian Pro RA8 tires? This will be for moderate off roading and daily driving. The RA8 has a 5 star rating with multiple tire online sellers. Just looking for someone with practicle experience. MTG

I'm running these exact tires right now on my daily driver. They are amazing on rocks and hard dirt,  and they are actually decent in the mud and snow. They seem super grippy for the dry Utah trails that I ride and I can rely on them to get me through the mud when I need to. I only run them in the summer for I have snow tires for the winter. They are wearing evenly and slowly, but I will be going with more aggressive tires this next summer. Hope this helps at all.

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Hello all once again. Now, I put 265/70R16 Falken AT3W tires on my 2000 Pathfinder. The clearance in the rear is good, no rubbing. The clearance in the front has me concerned. There is little between the bottom of the strut, the base where the spring seats, and the inner edge of the tire. Have not had rubbing that I know of but so little clearance does concern me. What think you all? MTG

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2 hours ago, MTGunner said:

Hello all once again. Now, I put 265/70R16 Falken AT3W tires on my 2000 Pathfinder. The clearance in the rear is good, no rubbing. The clearance in the front has me concerned. There is little between the bottom of the strut, the base where the spring seats, and the inner edge of the tire. Have not had rubbing that I know of but so little clearance does concern me. What think you all? MTG

 

As long as you have a gap between tire and strut perch, you're good.  That gap won't change, short of adjustment by camber bolt(s).

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Minimum distance from inner edge of tire to strut is approx. 1/4” to 3/8” static. I will monitor wear for indication of misalignment and or rubbing. Thanx! MTG

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To expand on what hawairish said, if you have a gap static you will always have the same gap; the suspension does not move in a way that will cause a change in the space there, so you're all good!

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