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DIY PVC washer fluid tank


Bax03SE
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Someone suggested I share some details on the PVC washer fluid tank I built to relocate the tank for my bumper build. For supplies, you’ll need: at least an 8 inch section of 4 inch PVC pipe, one 4 inch cap, one 4 inch removable test plug, and about 12 inches of cable to extend the negative battery cable.

 

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If it’s not already out, the first order of business is to remove the factory washer tank. You need the remove the plastic inner fender liner first, then the tank itself is held in by 4 10mm bolts. The two pumps just push into rubber grommets at the bottom of the tank, they can be pulled out by hand. Before removing the pumps and unhooking the tubes and wires, take a couple pictures of how everything hooks up. Then pull the plugs and tubing from the two pumps and set the pumps aside for later. Once the tank is out, the tubes and wiring can be pulled up into the engine compartment through the space behind the headlight. This will have them in the corner of the engine bay next to the battery, which is exactly where you want them.
Next up is to disconnect the battery terminals, remove the battery hold down bracket, and turn the battery side ways. The hold down bracket won’t line up in the new position, so I discarded that and used a couple of long hose clamps to wrap around the battery and hold it tight. There are holes in the shelf the battery sits on, so you can snake the clamps around the battery and through the hole, then tighten the clamp to hold the battery firmly in place.
I used a 4awg starter to switch cable to lengthen the negative terminal. 19acad3fa9266bf0335198d94bb85c62.jpg
Pull the bolt out of the stock ground wire terminal, feed the bolt through the eyelet on one end of the extension wire, and bolt it back up tight. Cut the eyelet off of the other end of the wire, and strip back about an inch of insulation. Then clamp it into a new terminal end. I used a brass terminal.7a59e01256882e4e46bcdded7604776f.jpg
The battery in its new home will look like this.1f81dbd9b881f726a9cdecaa940422e4.jpg



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Now your ready to build the tank. Cut out an 8 inch long section of PVC. And drill two holes toward the bottom for the pumps. Make sure the holes are at least an inch and a half up from the bottom to allow room to put the bottom cap on the pipe. I used a stepped drill bit to make the holes. Go slow and check the fitment of the pump grommets to make sure you don’t make the holes too big. The holes need to be just big enough for the grommets to push through tightly to get a good seal.8be80517d7583c2e633ba2a34c92e6b1.jpg
With the holes drilled you can insert the pumps, put the black cap on the bottom of the pipe under the pumps, and the red test cap on top. The test cap easily unscrews by hand to fill the tank. Once assembled, hook the wires and tubes back up to the pumps, (refer to the pictures you took earlier), and set the tank in place next to the battery. I used a piece of scrap metal bent to fit to make a bracket to hold the tank securely in place. One end of the bracket bolts to an existing bolt hole in the core support, and the other end I bolted to the tank with a nut and rubber washer on the inside of the tank so it won’t leak around the bolt hole. That should do it, add some washer fluid and enjoy!


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