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PathyDude's R50 Projects (03 SE 4x4)


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9 hours ago, Sjackson2 said:

I’m gonna do the same. 20 bucks on amazon with free prime shipping 

Ya I needed quick shipping so ended up buying a pair for $14. I think I’m going to order LR’s today so I can sell my old spacers sooner

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42 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

Ya I needed quick shipping so ended up buying a pair for $14. I think I’m going to order LR’s today so I can sell my old spacers sooner

Hard to beat those Land Rover springs. They end up bein about 70 shipped. Barely even more than off brand stock stuff

Edited by Sjackson2
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I put more work into the roof rack the last two nights. The pairs of crossbars are where the reack will attach to the load bars, I found some u bolts that fit just about perfectly, and I made cutouts so that the hardware is easier to access. Unfortunately I screwed up a cut (left side of the nearest crossbar), and will have to buy one last 5’ section of EMT. The rest of the crossbars will go on at 7.5” intervals. I’ll also be using some scrap to add more vertical bars, and probably fill in/strengthen around those cuts outs.

l12syso.jpg

 

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5 hours ago, RainGoat said:

emoji22.pngYou people with your clean garages sicken me! emoji1785.png

It’s not clean, trust me. Also, LR springs have now been ordered. NRC 9449's for me!

Edited by PathyDude17
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Alright, from what I think I know, a .5" spacer on top of my AC coils is NOT a bad idea, but I could be wrong. I'm under the impression that a .5" spacer cannot under any circumstance cause binding. Is it a bad idea to try to cut my existing 1" spacers (I have 4 total) with a saw? I'm not sure what it takes to cleanly and effectively cut through HDPE

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11 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

Alright, from what I think I know, a .5" spacer on top of my AC coils is NOT a bad idea, but I could be wrong. I'm under the impression that a .5" spacer cannot under any circumstance cause binding. Is it a bad idea to try to cut my existing 1" spacers (I have 4 total) with a saw? I'm not sure what it takes to cleanly and effectively cut through HDPE

I would imagine a bandsaw should work just fine 

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Alright, from what I think I know, a .5" spacer on top of my AC coils is NOT a bad idea, but I could be wrong. I'm under the impression that a .5" spacer cannot under any circumstance cause binding. Is it a bad idea to try to cut my existing 1" spacers (I have 4 total) with a saw? I'm not sure what it takes to cleanly and effectively cut through HDPE

from what i’ve read and been told so far you can even just use the one inch spacer just not any bigger


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If you already have spacers, and add springs, your overall droop and hence risk to the CV’s is still the same. When you do a spring lift, you’re just partially extending the strut within it’s travel range, so there will be less down travel left before it bottoms out but it won’t extend any lower than it does now. Hopefully that makes sense? With that said, there are two things to consider. Alignment could become more of an issue, but that’s easily fixed with a set of camber bolts. And if you don’t have manual hubs, then the increased lift will add a little more stress to the CV as it will always be riding around at more of an angle than it does now. The maximum droop won’t change but the static angle at ride height obviously will. Personally, I’d leave the 1 inch spacers, plan on camber bolts, and get manual hubs if you don’t already have them. 

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1 hour ago, Bax03SE said:

If you already have spacers, and add springs, your overall droop and hence risk to the CV’s is still the same. When you do a spring lift, you’re just partially extending the strut within it’s travel range, so there will be less down travel left before it bottoms out but it won’t extend any lower than it does now. Hopefully that makes sense? With that said, there are two things to consider. Alignment could become more of an issue, but that’s easily fixed with a set of camber bolts. And if you don’t have manual hubs, then the increased lift will add a little more stress to the CV as it will always be riding around at more of an angle than it does now. The maximum droop won’t change but the static angle at ride height obviously will. Personally, I’d leave the 1 inch spacers, plan on camber bolts, and get manual hubs if you don’t already have them. 

We’ve been going over this a lot now haven’t we? Haha. I’m worried about some of the problems people had with the AC+1 combination. Maybe I order a second pair of camber bolts and see if it’s possible. I know the .5” won’t be a problem, especially once the springs settle

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1 hour ago, PathyDude17 said:

E9Pkhnx.jpg

That was fast. Not sure when I can get these on, but at least I have em

Ya I’ve heard they don’t screw around with shipping times! What shocks you running with these? 

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9 minutes ago, Bax03SE said:

I’ve ordered springs from them twice and both times the shipping has been super quick! I think you’ll really like the 9449’s. 

I’m hoping to use the nrc9447s in the near future 

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Roof rack done! It’s fairly strong and fits the look I needed. You can barely see the u-bolts sticking up, but sawing off some of the extra threads fixes that. Probably about $70 to make, but it beats the $200 it would’ve taken for a flat rhino rack. Also painted my tow hooks while I was at it.

xq2WeLv.jpg

 

lYTna3v.jpg

wpit1Sf.jpg

JJvGWvl.jpg

 

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2 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

 

Roof rack done! It’s fairly strong and fits the look I needed. You can barely see the u-bolts sticking up, but sawing off some of the extra threads fixes that. Probably about $70 to make, but it beats the $200 it would’ve taken for a flat rhino rack. Also painted my tow hooks while I was at it.

xq2WeLv.jpg

 

lYTna3v.jpg

wpit1Sf.jpg

JJvGWvl.jpg

 

Dang man that roof rack looks siiiick!! Wanna make me one??? Lol

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2 hours ago, Sjackson2 said:

Dang man that roof rack looks siiiick!! Wanna make me one??? Lol

Thanks. Hopefully it’s good for carrying firewood and other gear. Sure for $300 bucks I will haha.

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Picked up two F250 bump stops for $3, but couldn’t pull the brake line off of a frontier. That upper fitting is ridiculous. I’ll order a new one from Advance auto parts I guess. I’ll toss it out there that if anyone doesn’t have good access to JY’s, I have a lot of JY’s local to me with probably 10 total pathfinders, and I’m getting pretty good at pulling stuff and shipping it out. They sell stuff for really cheap too

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1 hour ago, PathyDude17 said:

Picked up two F250 bump stops for $3, but couldn’t pull the brake line off of a frontier. That upper fitting is ridiculous. I’ll order a new one from Advance auto parts I guess. I’ll toss it out there that if anyone doesn’t have good access to JY’s, I have a lot of JY’s local to me with probably 10 total pathfinders, and I’m getting pretty good at pulling stuff and shipping it out. They sell stuff for really cheap too

I knew you could use the f250 shocks...but didn’t realize you could use the bump stops too

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3 hours ago, Sjackson2 said:

I knew you could use the f250 shocks...but didn’t realize you could use the bump stops too

I don’t know if anyone’s tried it before, im just gonna see if I can rig something up on my own as a bumpstock extension

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On 3/23/2019 at 7:42 PM, PathyDude17 said:

I don’t know if anyone’s tried it before, im just gonna see if I can rig something up on my own as a bumpstock extension

 

Not sure if you're asking about extending bumpstops, or using F250 bumpstops, but I've extended mine using 2"H x 3" dia body lift spacers and longer bolts.  However, the OE bolt diameter (M8?) was a bit smaller than the hole, so nuts were used to center it.

 

IMG-2924.jpg

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9 hours ago, hawairish said:

 

Not sure if you're asking about extending bumpstops, or using F250 bumpstops, but I've extended mine using 2"H x 3" dia body lift spacers and longer bolts.  However, the OE bolt diameter (M8?) was a bit smaller than the hole, so nuts were used to center it.

 

IMG-2924.jpg

I’m extending my bumpstops by stacking ones I got off an F250 onto my OE bumpstops

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