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The Spicy Truck(my build)


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now eventually by the end of summer/fall i need new tires. i am going to preferably buy 33s in the falcon wildpeaks we all love. i’ve been trying to find info on the width of the stock se wheels that i have and i keep getting info saying they’re 7” wide but fine to mount that 285/75r16 on them while others say they’re 8” and therefor fine to use.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

maybe i can get away with 2” wheel spacers and my original wheels bc i like them and they need to be painted black soon


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so i got hurt today working on the truck! hit my finger with the grinder while taking paint off the fenders to paint it black. getting stitches. again. ugh


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3 hours ago, spicyheckboi said:

now eventually by the end of summer/fall i need new tires. i am going to preferably buy 33s in the falcon wildpeaks we all love. i’ve been trying to find info on the width of the stock se wheels that i have and i keep getting info saying they’re 7” wide but fine to mount that 285/75r16 on them while others say they’re 8” and therefor fine to use.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

maybe i can get away with 2” wheel spacers and my original wheels bc i like them and they need to be painted black soon


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My stock 03 se wheels were 16x7 with 45mm offset. The easiest wheel for you to find will be a 15x8 or 16x8 with -19mm offset. Otherwise, spacers will suffice. But honestly, a working set of steelies isn’t more than $70 a rim. You sell your old wheels for $150 (I sold mine for $120 on Craigslist) and you’re not out much, especially compared to what it takes to buy good spacers.

Edited by PathyDude17
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49 minutes ago, spicyheckboi said:

so i got hurt today working on the truck! hit my finger with the grinder while taking paint off the fenders to paint it black. getting stitches. again. ugh


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Ooh, gotta be careful with those!  At least you didn't lose any fingers.

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Ooh, gotta be careful with those!  At least you didn't lose any fingers.

that’s right! i got home after getting only three stitches but she said i was lucky because i nearly severed my tendon after the main knuckle on my left pointer finger. But as soon as i got home i finished painting the fender i was originally working on! 2e762430fba927031b099c18da3f3486.jpg
not the greatest picture and it’s okay that it’s not perfect yet. i’m needing to get white for other areas of the truck so it’ll get cleaned up then. i’m going to do the rocker panels and front fender aswell but i’m done for today with the grinder lol


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My stock 03 se wheels were 16x7 with 45mm offset. The easiest wheel for you to find will be a 15x8 or 16x8 with -19mm offset. Otherwise, spacers will suffice. But honestly, a working set of steelies isn’t more than $70 a rim. You sell your old wheels for $150 (I sold mine for $120 on Craigslist) and you’re not out much, especially compared to what it takes to buy good spacers.

it sounds to me like i’m gonna be buying a set of steelies at some point then! i’ll probably go with the 15x8 with that -19mm offset if i’m gonna do new rims.
the only reason i might not get them yet is because when i do new cv boot i was planning on putting a set of manual hubs on and i’ve heard you need spacers with these wheels and manual hubs due to the hole being tapered in the se wheels. i can always just hold off the hubs though too


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1 hour ago, spicyheckboi said:


it sounds to me like i’m gonna be buying a set of steelies at some point then! i’ll probably go with the 15x8 with that -19mm offset if i’m gonna do new rims.
the only reason i might not get them yet is because when i do new cv boot i was planning on putting a set of manual hubs on and i’ve heard you need spacers with these wheels and manual hubs due to the hole being tapered in the se wheels. i can always just hold off the hubs though too


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Don’t hold off on the hubs, and ya you’ll have an easy time fitting hubs with steelies as opposed to your stock rims, though it can be done. Look for an advance autoparts discount and get the mile maker 435’s

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Don’t hold off on the hubs, and ya you’ll have an easy time fitting hubs with steelies as opposed to your stock rims, though it can be done. Look for an advance autoparts discount and get the mile maker 435’s

mile marker 435 is the one that fits these wheels or just the ones best for the truck?

i know it needs 28 spline and i’ve also heard some hubs need the studs changed while others don’t? is this true?

 

 

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1 minute ago, spicyheckboi said:

mile marker 435 is the one that fits these wheels or just the ones best for the truck?

i know it needs 28 spline and i’ve also heard some hubs need the studs changed while others don’t? is this true?

 

 

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You have a few options for hubs. Warn, rugged ridge, and Mike marker. Mike marker is the cheapest,  but not the slimmest. You can do your own research on which one you prefer, but I think if you want to fit hubs on your stock wheels you need to bezel out the center bore/use wheel spacers. Should be plenty of info on the forum

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mile marker 435 is the one that fits these wheels or just the ones best for the truck?
i know it needs 28 spline and i’ve also heard some hubs need the studs changed while others don’t? is this true?
 
 
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Warns do not need the studs changed, at least on the 2001 with the manual transfer case and locked flanges. I don't remember if there are any differences across years or front drive options.

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Mile markers need studs changed, but it’s easy. Take two nuts and thread them onto the end of each stud so they jamb together, then just back the stud out with a wrench on the bottom but. Mile markers come with new bolts to replace the studs. I don’t know that any brand hub will clear the SE rims like you have. I had those same rims and needed 1.5 inch spacers to clear the hubs. Personally, I like using spacers because it opens up the options for aftermarket rims a ton because there are very few choices in the offset needed for larger tires to clear the strut mount. 

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Mile markers need studs changed, but it’s easy. Take two nuts and thread them onto the end of each stud so they jamb together, then just back the stud out with a wrench on the bottom but. Mile markers come with new bolts to replace the studs. I don’t know that any brand hub will clear the SE rims like you have. I had those same rims and needed 1.5 inch spacers to clear the hubs. Personally, I like using spacers because it opens up the options for aftermarket rims a ton because there are very few choices in the offset needed for larger tires to clear the strut mount. 

you’re right. i’m going to see about pricing out how much of a difference it’ll be because i’ll need a wider rim either way so it’s 15x8with either -19offset or regular 45mm with a spacer. i remember seeing super cheap rims this sizing last i looked


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so far only thing that’s stopping me from buying my hubs is the decision between spacers nd new wheels. i did find wheels for stupid cheap 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing i think they’re like 39$ a piece. i could get the wheels and wait an extra week before i do the cv boots and hubs or i can get the spacers and what not now and be able to do it a week sooner but i’ll still need to get new rims down the road for the tires i want.

the spacers nearly feel like they’ll be a waste of money but like they definitely aren’t at the same time.

any advice?


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5 hours ago, spicyheckboi said:

so far only thing that’s stopping me from buying my hubs is the decision between spacers nd new wheels. i did find wheels for stupid cheap 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing i think they’re like 39$ a piece. i could get the wheels and wait an extra week before i do the cv boots and hubs or i can get the spacers and what not now and be able to do it a week sooner but i’ll still need to get new rims down the road for the tires i want.

the spacers nearly feel like they’ll be a waste of money but like they definitely aren’t at the same time.

any advice?


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If you get new hubs, you can leave your CV boots alone for a while, as they won’t  be turning at all and thus stay in the same condition. Honestly, if you’ve got a torn boot, your better off replacing the entire axle. Once dirt gets in there you run the risk of the axle being shot. I’ve had torn boots for 5-6 months now, just hav

ent gotten around to pulling something out at a JY to replace them with. It takes a lot for them to fail. So I guess my advice would be to get new rims. That would allow you to run bigger tires cause the rim is wider, and you can fit manual hubs no problem. But if you want a “cool” aftermarket aluminum wheel, then you’re gonna have to get spacers.

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If you get new hubs, you can leave your CV boots alone for a while, as they won’t  be turning at all and thus stay in the same condition. Honestly, if you’ve got a torn boot, your better off replacing the entire axle. Once dirt gets in there you run the risk of the axle being shot. I’ve had torn boots for 5-6 months now, just hav

ent gotten around to pulling something out at a JY to replace them with. It takes a lot for them to fail. So I guess my advice would be to get new rims. That would allow you to run bigger tires cause the rim is wider, and you can fit manual hubs no problem. But if you want a “cool” aftermarket aluminum wheel, then you’re gonna have to get spacers.

i ordered hubs and remanufactured cvs as well as boots to make the current non clicking but torn cvs a good backup. i’m assuming remanufactured is just a good set of nissan oe with new boots-99$ both sides from detroit axles.

the hubs i ordered are knock off brand for 65$ and measure 3.1” at their dial end. my se wheels inner lip makes the opening 3.23” so let’s see how accurate amazons measurements are.

 

decided against wheel spacers and to go with 15” 3.75 offset black steelies 49$ a piece from bbwheels. 256ish $ after lugs and stems and i’ll order some tire balancing beads when i order tires sooner rather than later as i’ve discovered...DRYROT

 

might go with 33x12.50 ironman all country mts just because they’re 579$ for four tires and that’s pretty great to me

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, spicyheckboi said:

i ordered hubs and remanufactured cvs as well as boots to make the current non clicking but torn cvs a good backup. i’m assuming remanufactured is just a good set of nissan oe with new boots-99$ both sides from detroit axles.

the hubs i ordered are knock off brand for 65$ and measure 3.1” at their dial end. my se wheels inner lip makes the opening 3.23” so let’s see how accurate amazons measurements are.

 

decided against wheel spacers and to go with 15” 3.75 offset black steelies 49$ a piece from bbwheels. 256ish $ after lugs and stems and i’ll order some tire balancing beads when i order tires sooner rather than later as i’ve discovered...DRYROTemoji33.png

 

might go with 33x12.50 ironman all country mts just because they’re 579$ for four tires and that’s pretty great to me

 

 

 

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You may consider 16x8 steelies, as that would allow you to run the same height but a slightly narrower, tire. Depends on what your looking for though.

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On 3/30/2019 at 7:39 AM, spicyheckboi said:

so i got hurt today working on the truck! hit my finger with the grinder while taking paint off the fenders to paint it black. getting stitches. again. ugh

 

Gloves, glasses and sturdy work clothes. Always. Especially around any rotary equipment like a grinder. It may be inconvenient, dorky, annoying etc... but receiving a serious injury or loosing your limbs from something that can be easily prevented or minimized with P.P.E. is much worse. Glad you are OK. Would suck to loose a digit over something so trivial. 

On 3/30/2019 at 2:42 PM, spicyheckboi said:

i know it needs 28 spline and i’ve also heard some hubs need the studs changed while others don’t? is this true?

 I have the warn hubs. Both the factory and Warn supplied studs broke. Not the best hardware. Id recommend switching to some quality socket head cap screws. 

ktQnF5x.jpg

G9IvabA.jpg

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PPE all the way! Bought a full face shield and it saved my face. Grinder blade chipped and hit thr face shield hard. No penetration but left a nice dent in the plastic.

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 I have the warn hubs. Both the factory and Warn supplied studs broke. Not the best hardware. Id recommend switching to some quality socket head cap screws. 
ktQnF5x.jpg
G9IvabA.jpg


yeah the one time i’m not wearing my impact gloves this happens smh i was even wearing my face shield...you’d think i’d have remembered the glove too lol. i’m glad too only have ended up with three stitches though so wasn’t too bad.

it’s good to know those bolts might break on me so i’ll definetly be doing this one when another car is home lol.


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these are the tires i should be buying within the next two weeks hopefully. they are 3 mountain snowflake approved and the next cheapest aggressive tire i could find since the fallen at3ws prices have skyrocketed recently

01807730ac5d2e2e835f3b5e51241cb4.jpg


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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks great! I’ve heard a lot of good things about those tires, let us know what you think of them. I’m a long way off from needing tires but will strongly consider those when it’s time.

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Looks great! I’ve heard a lot of good things about those tires, let us know what you think of them. I’m a long way off from needing tires but will strongly consider those when it’s time.

 thank you!! i love them so far, you barely hear them and that’s unheard of for mud tires. while they are slightly under 33s (32.5),they were advertised as 33x12.50 on a 10” wide rim so that’s probably why mine measured 11-11.5 on the 15x8. such a perfect fit i can just get my knuckle between the tire and strut thanks to the 3.75” backspacing.

 

i also barely noticed them as terms of acceleration the3.5 handles them fine. i’ve been reading that “need to regear” thread and while i haven’t been in 4low yet, it’s definitely not necessary for road driving. still gets right up to speed no problem.

i also balanced them with balancing beads and they also seem to work well so far!

 

up next is putting on the manual hubs, change out the cvs and repair the old ones, finish painting my black striping along the bottom edge of everything, and maybe four round led lights where the grill goes? yes i think so. lol

 

 

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OH AND I FORGOT TO ADD PRICES these tires right now are the cheapest i could find in this size other than the nankung (spelling?) muds from walmart that have absolutely no sipping at all (i deal with snow and these actually have great snow reviews those mankind’s do NOT lol). tires were 146 a piece from amazon (walmart has them for same price everywhere else wanted about 160-180 for them).

Rims were 46 a piece from bbwheels.com.

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