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02 SE r50 build - Buttercup


Buttercup
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Look good! Also, consider if manual hubs will fit through the center bore. I think the Mile Marker are the narrowest. I don’t run manual hubs because I like the versatility of my All-Mode atx14a but it’s just something to be aware of before you buy.

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Look good! Also, consider if manual hubs will fit through the center bore. I think the Mile Marker are the narrowest. I don’t run manual hubs because I like the versatility of my All-Mode atx14a but it’s just something to be aware of before you buy.

I liked the manual hubs on mine when i was just driving around town and on the highway. during a hard rain i would just lock them and use the auto mode
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In the PNW it’s wet & slippery most of the time so I use the AWD almost as a default & 2WD on the rare dry days. Consequently, it didn’t seem like I was gaining much. Did you ever happen to put it in AWD while the front was unlocked - there’s a diversity of opinions on the result, from error light to catastrophe?

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In the PNW it’s wet & slippery most of the time so I use the AWD almost as a default & 2WD on the rare dry days. Consequently, it didn’t seem like I was gaining much. Did you ever happen to put it in AWD while the front was unlocked - there’s a diversity of opinions on the result, from error light to catastrophe?

i never tried because i really didn’t want anything to happen, but other than that my mpg went up about 1-2 depending on conditions
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On 11/11/2019 at 3:38 PM, RainGoat said:

Did you ever happen to put it in AWD while the front was unlocked - there’s a diversity of opinions on the result, from error light to catastrophe?


I have - years ago tried it from a stop to see what would happen. Clicking sound from both front hubs. No damage as far as I can tell but definitely didn’t sound like it would be good if it happened at anything more than a crawl. Warn hubs fwiw. No error light either. 

Edited by jlduthie
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 @RainGoat  I just realized that a while back you directed me towards Desert Rat located in... Arizona I think? Well I was searching the website for AC springs for the front. I know that OME and AC are ARB, but again im confused. I was looking for the part number on 4x4parts.com which didnt help because all they have is the stock keeping unit. My question is, does Desert Rat sell the 2 in AC springs? they have a list of part numbers and the discriptions are very vague, not telling the amount of lift, or if its for the front or rear; only specifiying whether its for the R50 model and whether it is Heavy Duty or Medium duty.

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51 minutes ago, joshrichard said:

I know that OME and AC are ARB, but again im confused.

 

Nope, AC is its own brand.  You can only get them from 4x4parts.com, aka Automotive Customizers (AC).  AC sells OMEs, but they mask brand names on practically everything.  The springs they sell for around $167 are OMEs; the $180 ones are their house brand.

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Nope, AC is its own brand.  You can only get them from 4x4parts.com, aka Automotive Customizers (AC).  AC sells OMEs, but they mask brand names on practically everything.  The springs they sell for around $167 are OMEs; the $180 ones are their house brand.

Okay that makes more sense thanks
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a54dafb77b487ae863d27e66a73e603b.jpgc78f400c6dc5714165e23c9e699668af.jpg
Struts are in, spring compressor gets here tomorrow along with the OEM strut mount + bearing, bellows, and bumpstops. AC and LR springs get here next early next week. Already have the Bilstein sitting in the garage. Gonna begin the Install next Wednesday, first day off for thanksgiving break.

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2 hours ago, joshrichard said:


Struts are in, spring compressor gets here tomorrow along with the OEM strut mount + bearing, bellows, and bumpstops. AC and LR springs get here next early next week. Already have the Bilstein sitting in the garage. Gonna begin the Install next Wednesday, first day off for thanksgiving break.

Heck ya! Enjoy it, she’s not gonna be stock much longer

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Heck ya! Enjoy it, she’s not gonna be stock much longer

i’m so excited man. The amount of research required for a lift on these trucks suited to the driver definitely brings a new level of appreciation towards the vehicle.
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  • 2 weeks later...
44 minutes ago, joshrichard said:

8f3668cd16e646236cd29bb5ff07d07a.jpg45b2bb8a6093ac6ffea0d70e0d768f2b.jpg
I am beyond excited to have been able to finish the lift today. She rides like a dream. Tires are 30.6 inches at the moment and plan to get some 32 inch MT’s


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Come on, just put 35’s on her already

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So after doing the entire lift I would say that as long as you have the right tools then it isn’t too bad.

With the back all I had to do was take off the shocks, and the sway bar end links and the axle dropped down just enough to fit the springs in with no problem.

The front wasn’t too bad either but a million times easier with a friend. I did one side alone and the other with a friend and it cut the installation time to about half.


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On 12/13/2019 at 8:59 AM, joshrichard said:

So after doing the entire lift I would say that as long as you have the right tools then it isn’t too bad.

With the back all I had to do was take off the shocks, and the sway bar end links and the axle dropped down just enough to fit the springs in with no problem.

The front wasn’t too bad either but a million times easier with a friend. I did one side alone and the other with a friend and it cut the installation time to about half.


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Did you make sure to assemble the KYB front struts with that little 1" metal spacer dealio? (I'm just checking!)

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We were stuck in limp mode this weekend from a simple mud puddle splashing into our MAF system. Just bought an MAF sensor and tube from a pathy part out, so everything’s running back to normal. b5bec8d10074df3774f8c306d0ef23b0.jpg
The lift has excellent ride qualify off-road now, too.


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  • 1 month later...

I’m know this has been discussed, and i’ve seen people do it, but would like input from those who have done it before. Is there anyway to add the 1 inch spacer without taking the entire strut apart? I know the lip of the top perch restricts removal of the old bolts, but what if you were to cut the old bolts in half then put the new hardware through the top? Would it be worth the trouble? i know both ways have their own difficulties.

The only person i can think of who has done the OME spring with spacer off the top of my head is @02_Pathy

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I’m know this has been discussed, and i’ve seen people do it, but would like input from those who have done it before. Is there anyway to add the 1 inch spacer without taking the entire strut apart? I know the lip of the top perch restricts removal of the old bolts, but what if you were to cut the old bolts in half then put the new hardware through the top? Would it be worth the trouble? i know both ways have their own difficulties.

The only person i can think of who has done the OME spring with spacer off the top of my head is @02_Pathy
The OEM studs in the top hat are pressed in there pretty good, so if you did cut them it would be extremely hard to remove the stud still in the top hat. I would do it right by taking the strut apart, what I did was place the top hat ontop of 3 sockets that were a little larger than the studs and had the stud facing up then just hammered them out. Mine came out pretty easy but experiences might vary due to corrosion and mileage. Also if you had the bolt coming down and the nut on the bottom it would be almost impossible to tighten the nut on the inner side in the fender compared to just having the bolts coming up and tightening the nuts via in the engine bay

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