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03 Pathfinder Journey


Bax03SE
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39d6c419ac235d0aa82220098f3084f9.jpg6f874b21810e025d71c21df8cfcb3c48.jpg9b65c23c81f8e873c30cfea68f3015ab.jpg24ad0cd2eeecd0417c1457d2ce80318b.jpg
This is where I left it for the night while the paint dries. I’ve got a few more details to figure out in the morning, and should hopefully get it finished up.


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On 3/2/2019 at 8:51 AM, Bax03SE said:

Also did a mild diy panhard drop by relocating it a little down and to the right with a new hole drilled.22b63577300d8658f842cbf7b58e6193.jpgThe original mounting hole is circled.


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Do you have any other pictures of how you did the panhard drop? 

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5 hours ago, mjotrainbrain said:

That looks great!  A little narrow, but not bad.  Although I am a little biased towards tube bumpers. ? Got any plans to widen it at all?

It’s still a work in progress, but I do plan to do something to cover up the lower ends of the fenders a bit and tie it together visually.

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Alright, well this turned into a bigger project today than planned! At first I was going to use some aluminum diamond plate to cover/protect the low hanging washer fluid and coolant over flow tanks, as well as the low hanging part of the air intake assembly. After messing with it for a while, I decided to change course and completely remove it all! This meant building my own reservoirs and modifying the air intake setup.

This old Tide bottle is living a new life as my washer fluid reservoir.e58d4926b4d56e0f46427e0753a43e47.jpg
By turning the battery sideways I made room for the new washer tank. The battery fits pretty easily that way. I did have to lengthen the negative cable to reach the terminal. Also painted the Tide bottle black so it blends in. 2cc90c264d64f57c72835bfb183d1ffc.jpg


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I decided to build my new coolant overflow tank out of PVC pipe. e49d80f8bda7cf2e32645b7fc27e7359.jpg
And it fits down in next to the air filter box.
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I had to move the hood open sensor over to make room for the coolant tank. It doesn’t line up with the hood anymore to compress the switch when the hood closes, so I just zip tied the switch down so it doesn’t always think the hood is open.


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I sealed off the air intake hole in the fender, and opened up the front of the filter box so it now breathes air from the front of the box. With the original air intake hole in the fender sealed up it can’t kick up water from the wheel well into the filter box. The only way water is getting into the intake now is if I’m in water up to the bottom of the headlights, which I have no intentions of ever doing.
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Wide open wheel wells!81bad3fb36071c8fa18e5d8672ab5db0.jpge790c8c7dba5375fa1217cc97c02a75e.jpg
I wired up some LED driving lights to the factory fog light wiring, and also put my light bar back into the new bumper. 95953a844ab65efe22748258c31708fb.jpg94121b5f38f8d1e397ca0055837b7d95.jpg78edb995046375e6510e959d855660a4.jpg


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41 minutes ago, RainGoat said:


Wait, you like that better than a Tide jug?

Lol, just a little. The Tide jug was a spur of the moment what the hell do I have laying around kind of decision. Then I decided maybe I should make something that might actually hold up more than a few days! 

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15 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

It looks really nice & that’s coming from a guy who has had a cracked reservoir for 3 years. You should show how you made it!

I’ll post some how to steps soon. It was actually really easy, and about $25 in supplies from Home Depot. Plus about $13 at Autozone for the cable and terminal to extend the negative battery cable. 

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Even though the truck was largely rust free, for whatever reason the lower radiator support had a strange amount of rust on it even though everything else on the undercarriage is nice and clean. I knew that when I bought it, but it wasn’t an emergency so I left it alone for the first year until I got some time to tackle it. c1f382d2c8f856cefd88acbc2af6c3f7.jpgThis is looking up from the bottom of the rad support, and the pic was taken about halfway through the repair so some of the rust holes are already covered up. I used two pieces of angle iron to box in the bottom of the rad support and strengthen it back up.
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With this reinforcement this section is now much thicker and I think stronger than stock.


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This is exactly what i’ve been looking for . My support looks more horrible than yours and i’ve been trying to figure out a way to fix it myself before taking it to a shop. Everything is pretty much flaky and crusty extremely nervous about trying to clean it up . b82781596eee187667b5c9fd3dfe0169.jpg


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4 hours ago, NIssanBoston said:


This is exactly what i’ve been looking for . My support looks more horrible than yours and i’ve been trying to figure out a way to fix it myself before taking it to a shop. Everything is pretty much flaky and crusty extremely nervous about trying to clean it up . b82781596eee187667b5c9fd3dfe0169.jpg


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Yikes, that’s a lot scarier looking than mine was for sure. Can you get any more pictures of the whole support and especially the frame ends by the tow hooks? If there is still solid metal on either end to weld to then it is still pretty easily fixable. If not, you could be looking at a bigger job. Also have you looked up in the front wheel wells by the strut mounts for rust?

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Yikes, that’s a lot scarier looking than mine was for sure. Can you get any more pictures of the whole support and especially the frame ends by the tow hooks? If there is still solid metal on either end to weld to then it is still pretty easily fixable. If not, you could be looking at a bigger job. Also have you looked up in the front wheel wells by the strut mounts for rust?

Yeah those have been welded already , it just this section now . I have a video but have no idea how to upload it here. I’ll take some more photos for you a little later


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