Mattmill91 Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I did this pump 5 or so years ago less then 25k miles. She started dumping water.. last week. What else should I do this time? I did the time belt kit and pump together.. Few months ago popped a water line on the rear of the engine.. from block to intake line. I see thrrr are 3 or so more lines back there. At first I thought it was the bypass hose (looks rather of a real pain) decided to pop since it’s a old truck and rubber doesn’t last. But after tearing in to it today it’s the water pump. Was a Gates branded water pump... What’s everyone think of brands out there? Also some pages saying the link of the fan clutch could effect the water pump longevity . (Never has a cooling issue longs as there’s water in it) Other possible thought is that when it got hot the first time it popped the rear side water like that over heating caused a compromised water pump shaft seal then was more likely to fail here 2/3 months later and (2k miles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Just wondering what others think. Idk if it’s just some bs to sell the fan clutch too. I could understand too if I had any heating issues. Never gets over 180/190normally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cham Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I just replaced my fan clutch so I am too interested in the validity of this statementSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjackson2 Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 If I was gonna pull the pump off a truck this old, is probably replace the fan clutch too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Overheating may have contributed to pump failure, but I suspect the pump running dry after that hose failed probably did more to kill the seals. I think I put a Gates pump in mine, it was a while ago though. Replacing the fan clutch while you're already in there wouldn't add any work and might save some aggravation later on (nice to pick when you replace something rather than waiting for it to fail), but I don't think bolting an old clutch to a new pump is going to bring all holy hell down upon you. I reused my fan clutch haven't had a problem with it. If it goes, I'll replace it, but I'm sure as hell not going to tear the timing apart again to replace the water pump at the same time, unless it's due for one anyway or I have some reason to suspect that the pump itself is compromised. As for one component wrecking the other, maybe if the clutch is horribly out of balance it might hurt the pump bearings, or if the pump bearings are shot they might... I dunno, rattle the clutch to death? I'm not sure how they'd support that claim. Maybe that "rule" came from frustration with people bolting a roached clutch to a new pump and complaining that the pump must be defective because their car still overheated. Either that or it's BS from the marketing department. That's usually all you get in a product description. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Going deep today. Intake mani pulled. Thoughts. Worth to pull the runners as well to. De grease. Get to the other valve cover seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Rear line is about to blow. Worth to pull it. Damn it’s going to be a real pain to reassemble. Any tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Also what’s a good way to get the crank shaft time belt gear off. And same with the camshaft... going in to replace them seals. While I am this deep. fskc might be easier to pull is. Drop a reman black in it. Then reinstall. That I take wasn’t fun. And I cut those lines. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 fskc might be easier to pull is. Drop a reman black in it. Then reinstall. That I take wasn’t fun. And I cut those lines.Word. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 Wow, there's some nastiness in that hose. What the hell even is that? I had my VG30 that far apart shortly after I got it to clean the dirt and rat crap out from the plug wells (and for the TB of course). If you pull the lower manifold, you can get all the crap out of the spark plug wells, and you can also knock out the casting flash that prevents the plug wells from draining like they're supposed to. If you go that far, make sure you get the coolant pipe running under the manifold done up before you put the manifold back on, or you won't be able to get to its fasteners. I forgot that part on mine and had to pull it apart again. The crank sprocket on mine just slid off. Maybe the leaky seal behind it helped prevent corrosion. If yours is stuck, maybe a little gentle beating from the front might break it free, plus a little heat and some penetrating oil. I'd avoid trying to drive something in behind it, the washer between the sprocket and the seal probably wouldn't appreciate that. Also remember that's your oil pump behind it. It doesn't look bad, hopefully it doesn't fight you too hard. The camshaft sprockets are bolted, so you'll need something to hold them while you remove and install them. I made an F-shaped tool out of steel rod that slots into the holes in the sprockets, but I've heard a pair of vise grips and your old timing belt work just as well (used sort of like a strap wrench). It's really not that bad to put back together, just keep in mind what you're doing and what order things came off in and you'll get it eventually! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 The coolant hoses in the back are the hard part. Even at the factory where the vehicle was put together that had to be the worst job... there’s no way around it. I hate putting the upper intake on, hate. I feel as strongly about putting NEW hoses and NEW clamps on back there as I do about a new rear main seal and oil pan sealant while the engine is out... IMO, two transmission replacements are equal to one upper intake job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 Yeah, I remember those heater hoses being all kinds of fun on mine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 It wouldn’t be so bad if you didn’t have to rub your hands and arms all over that fiberglass on the firewall. It’s just the worst. I mean you’re stretched out with something poking you at all times while reaching into a very small space which you can barely see into and if you drop anything you have to slink down and crawl around under the truck in all the leaking fluids until you find it before you climb back to your awkward hurtful position to continue embedding fiberglass into your skin. I will say that it wouldn’t be quite as bad if you use the constant tension clamps that are on there originally... perhaps I shouldn’t have put worn gear clamps on there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 Suddenly mine seems easier in retrospect! The WD21 doesn't have a fiberglass pad on the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 I don't remember my parents 00 having one either. But then again its been like 7 years. I would only use bosch or oem waterpumps from now on. I also had a gates one fail prematurely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 And I screwed the &^%*ing pooch. fskced up when installing time belt... due to previous fskc up of stopping on what must of been the wrong stroke of #1 piston. F f f Just bent the valves ....“Houston we have a problem”fskc Who’s done a valve change? What should. I do now. This is @!*%..... I know pull everything I just did.. and more... @!*%aaaaay day. Time for a beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Reset all the timing back to what it should be. You may have gotten lucky. I know several people who've broke timing belts on VG33Es and have had it run fine afterwards. It may not actually be as interference as Nissan says it is. Same with the vg33e xterra. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Love the optimism but I am pretty sure I fskced it. Cam accidentally got moved while the belt was off. I heard a audible tink. I had hoped I got lucky...After many hours of labor later..Yeah I fskced her good all right... can’t right right in the number 1 hole..Least how I am feeling it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltaR50 Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Gates is the current oem parts nissan use right now. When i did build my vg34e engine i want everything brand new. Order parts on local nissan dealership and found gates are the parts used by nissan to supply 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Gates is the current oem parts nissan use right now. When i did build my vg34e engine i want everything brand new. Order parts on local nissan dealership and found gates are the parts used by nissan to supply Nice info. But my problems have grown severely. Gates was the water pump that failed me... does have a nice cast iron impeller. But seals where leaking. I bent valves due to my own negligence.... sad day. Pathy as made is 212k miles and 22 years faithfully (9 with me) to be fskced by me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltaR50 Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 57 minutes ago, Mattmill91 said: Nice info. But my problems have grown severely. Gates was the water pump that failed me... does have a nice cast iron impeller. But seals where leaking. I bent valves due to my own negligence.... sad day. Pathy as made is 212k miles and 22 years faithfully (9 with me) to be fskced by me. sorry to hear that. i was looking forward to wheel with you around modesto area in LA grange OHV in the future bro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltaR50 Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 3 hours ago, Mattmill91 said: Love the optimism but I am pretty sure I fskced it. Cam accidentally got moved while the belt was off. I heard a audible tink. I had hoped I got lucky... After many hours of labor later.. Yeah I fskced her good all right... can’t right right in the number 1 hole.. Least how I am feeling it now. you cant bent a valve just by having the cam slips while you are repositioning the belt. unless you put it wrong then start the engine then there you go. other than that you should be ok. ive done swapping timing belt on my mine and few times and also have the cam gears slip when i put the timing belt back and engine is fine. you should be good 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 I had a cam move quite a bit when I was trying to take the sprocket off. Wasn't holding the sprocket well enough and it turned a little, then it jumped as one or more of the cam lobes came around to where the springs spun them. Turned it back to where it was supposed to be, put it back together, ran fine. What's "can't right right in the #1 hole" mean? Is it back together and down a cylinder? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmill91 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 I had a cam move quite a bit when I was trying to take the sprocket off. Wasn't holding the sprocket well enough and it turned a little, then it jumped as one or more of the cam lobes came around to where the springs spun them. Turned it back to where it was supposed to be, put it back together, ran fine. What's "can't right right in the #1 hole" mean? Is it back together and down a cylinder?Can’t fire right in the number 1 hole! I have a blinking CEL and I am sure it’s the number one cylinder.. Unfortunately I wasn’t that lucky... took it apart in a improper stroke and the cam lobe pressure due to springs.. forced the number 1 cyclinder valves to meet the piston. I knew the moment I heard the audible ting is bad. She’s running super roughy and won’t idle belove 1000rpm Now I am scared to run it. Don’t need that valve to break off and start pounding the pistons... New engine wasn’t in the plan for this old girl. She’s done so well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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