Jump to content

Backup and Rock lights


PathyDude17
 Share

Recommended Posts

That is awesome news. Thank you so much. I think me and my buddy can figure out the rest from here, but I’ll be sure to ask any more questions I have and post pics of whatever I get done. Just gotta make it through finals week first haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good deal.  One more thing to keep in mind about LEDs is that there is a polarity...don't go cut-happy on wiring until you're sure of +/- leads.

 

If you plan to do the reverse light bypass I described, you'll need the FSM to locate the harnesses and wiring colors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/9/2018 at 9:03 PM, mjotrainbrain said:

Ok maybe not as on-topic as I had remembered, but may be useful info if you end up deciding the dome light doesn't supply enough power and you have to set up a dedicated circuit (but then you run into the issue of it not coming on when you unlock...maybe there's an extra fuse slot that's part of this circuit?  Or perhaps you could run a separate circuit that's powered all the time but only activated by a low-power line from the dome light circuit via a transistor or something?  Again I don't have a ton of knowledge of electronics so kinda shooting in the dark/brainstorming.).

 

Could you tap into the dome light enough to trigger a relay?  I like the idea.  I was thinking you could run some led light strips under the running boards, or just under the body. If you tapped into the dome light, would they come on anytime you turned on the dome light?  

 

I'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So when people say "tap into" a wire, how exactly do y'all do that?  You could use vampire clips I guess.  You could strip a little wire back and solder on another wire there and then shrink wrap.  You could find the connector and stick two wires in there with a new connector.  Maybe another option?

 

Also, PathyDude take some pics along the way.  :)  Can't wait to see it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think all of the above.... I've seen the vampire clips on you tube videos (the Chevy I mentioned earlier). I'm planning on using shrink wrap whatever method I go with. There are definitely reasons why I'm having someone help me with this though, because some the specific technicalities of this escape me. I will be sure to take pictures when I remember to! I'm gonna continue to do research, and hopefully order parts so that I can complete this over Xmas break, which starts in two weeks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I solder/shrink just about everything. When tapping into a wire, I usually either cut the wire (so I can slide the shrink wrap on), strip it, and solder it back together with the new wire included, or cut the insulation in two places with the strippers, slit between the cuts with a razor, then peel off the insulation and wrap/solder the new wire around the bare spot. The trouble with the second way is that you can't get shrink tube over it, so you're stuck using tape or liquid schmoo; the trouble with the first is that the original wire gets shorter, which isn't really an option if it's part of a harness.

 

Look for the shrink tube with the glue inside. It melts when you shrink the tubing, sealing the joint against moisture and preventing the tubing from slipping off. I think it's the marine grade stuff.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/10/2018 at 10:10 PM, AlabamaDan said:

If you tapped into the dome light, would they come on anytime you turned on the dome light?

 

On 12/10/2018 at 10:15 PM, PathyDude17 said:

Although, I don't think they would come one when you use the manual switch on the dome light.

 

PathyDude17 is correct, assuming you tap into the lead before the dome light switch.  Technically, you could trigger off the ground side of the switch, if you wanted the lights controlled by the switch, but that's unorthodox.

 

On 12/11/2018 at 12:13 AM, Slartibartfast said:

I solder/shrink just about everything. When tapping into a wire, I usually either cut the wire (so I can slide the shrink wrap on), strip it, and solder it back together with the new wire included, or cut the insulation in two places with the strippers, slit between the cuts with a razor, then peel off the insulation and wrap/solder the new wire around the bare spot. The trouble with the second way is that you can't get shrink tube over it, so you're stuck using tape or liquid schmoo; the trouble with the first is that the original wire gets shorter, which isn't really an option if it's part of a harness.

 

This is exactly my approach, and for the same reasons.  There are some places where it's impractical, though, like when there are short leads to work with; as Slartibartfast noted, it shortens the wire.  I usually only consider the 2nd option (peeling insulation, looping wire, solder) if I can pull one of the terminals out of the harness to slip heat shrink onto the splice.  I won't use the liquid or electrical tape for that splice unless it's the only option.

 

I will, however, resort to taps if I need something quick, basic, or potentially temporary.  There are good and bad options.  I like the Posi-Taps the most, but they're a bit expensive and bulky.  However, they provide a solid connection without crimping, and just put a little pinhole into the wire insulation:

 

posi-tap-idc-connector-5359-p.jpg

T-Taps/Scotchloks tend to be pretty reliable, but they get a bad rap that I think comes from people who don't match wire gauge thickness to the tap, and the internal blade cuts into the wire and not just the insulation, or doesn't get through the insulation correctly.  I've never had a problem with them, but like the Posi-Taps, they come off the wire at 90° which sometimes prevents looming wires nicely.

51-PWWMhu0L.jpg

 

I like these inline Scotchloks, but they're a pain to remove and can allow for the added wire to slip out.

 

3mtm-scotchloktm-instant-auto-electric-c

 

None of these options are exactly pretty, but if you lack the soldering skills, tools, and/or patience, they're perfect for you.  Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.[@hawairish]

Coming from a home improvement/remodeling background, I’ve definitely been guilty of that....(he red facedly reflects on the Jeep Grand Cherokee reverse camera install he did for his Mom)

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I installed LED reverse lights on mine a while ago and
if you want to see how I rigged mine.

Watched your YT video today. Always impressed when somebody takes the time to film something like that. Nice job.

As a NWer though, that gravelly ground definitely marks you as East of the Cascades. My street grows here on the West side & I think@TowndawgR50 place may make mine look dry.
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re-post my question in case it got lost... I have to buy extra wire to set all this up, would I be correct to purchase 14 gauge? The amp capacity on that wire should just exceed my power needs, whereas it looks like 16 gauge will be really close or below.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

Re-post my question in case it got lost... I have to buy extra wire to set all this up, would I be correct to purchase 14 gauge? The amp capacity on that wire should just exceed my power needs, whereas it looks like 16 gauge will be really close or below.

 

For your setup, 18awg is perfectly fine.  Much of your factory wiring is around that, including radio, interior lighting, etc.  You could jump to 16awg if you want a thicker wire potentially more suitable for exterior runs, but not necessary if the wire is properly protected (exterior wire should be sheathed/protected to some degree anyway to resist elements, heat, chafing, etc.).  The leads coming from those LED pods are probably even smaller than 18awg.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

Alright, thanks for the help! For whatever reason I couldn’t get a conclusive answer off of google searches....

 

No problem.  There tends to be a lot of variance and opinion when it comes to wire selection, but it really depends on usage/application.  A chart like this is a lot closer to my wiring preference for most 12V electrical...

 

ampacity.jpg

 

...except when wiring up a stereos/amplifiers, other high-draw lighting/accessories (compressors, winches); I'll almost always increase to the next gauge.  You'll never hurt a system with wire that's too thick (keeping it reasonable), but at some point cost exceeds benefits.  On the other hand, wire that's too thin will affect performance and is also a hazard.  If unsure, jump a gauge.  I'll usually choose a wire gauge based on 50%-100% of my expected nominal draw with the circuit loaded...this gives me some circuit overhead for any overdraw conditions, plus some wiggle room if I want/need to put another accessory on the circuit.

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, RainGoat said:


Watched your YT video today. Always impressed when somebody takes the time to film something like that. Nice job.

As a NWer though, that gravelly ground definitely marks you as East of the Cascades. My street grows here on the West side & I think@TowndawgR50 place may make mine look dry.

 

Great video

 

1 hour ago, hawairish said:

 

No problem.  There tends to be a lot of variance and opinion when it comes to wire selection, but it really depends on usage/application.  A chart like this is a lot closer to my wiring preference for most 12V electrical...

 

ampacity.jpg

 

...except when wiring up a stereos/amplifiers, other high-draw lighting/accessories (compressors, winches); I'll almost always increase to the next gauge.  You'll never hurt a system with wire that's too thick (keeping it reasonable), but at some point cost exceeds benefits.  On the other hand, wire that's too thin will affect performance and is also a hazard.  If unsure, jump a gauge.  I'll usually choose a wire gauge based on 50%-100% of my expected nominal draw with the circuit loaded...this gives me some circuit overhead for any overdraw conditions, plus some wiggle room if I want/need to put another accessory on the circuit.

 

Nice reference.  Now, how do we tell by looking what gauge a wire is?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AlabamaDan said:

Nice reference.  Now, how do we tell by looking what gauge a wire is?

 

By looking?  Experience I guess.  Otherwise the diameter of the wire (excluding insulation) corresponds to a gauge; they’ve got some handy gauge tools available for quick determination, otherwise calipers and a chart can be used. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, hawairish said:

 

By looking?  Experience I guess.  Otherwise the diameter of the wire (excluding insulation) corresponds to a gauge; they’ve got some handy gauge tools available for quick determination, otherwise calipers and a chart can be used. 

 

 

 

Experience...  how does one develop that?  :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...