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zakzackzachary's 2000 R50 new to PNW from AK


zakzackzachary
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  • 4 weeks later...

I need to finish up a few things, but I do have some updates. Both good and ugly-

 

Nearing completion:

  • Rear storage drawers for the hatch, just need to clean it up and fix my latching system. Pretty much everything other than the handles were DIY.
  • Roof basket fog lighting, all 7" "bars", four facing front, one on each side, and two facing rear. Wiring is 80% complete, just need to clean it up a bit and wire in the switches.

 

The ugly:

 

After the installation of my new front struts I forgot to re-tighten down the top nut once the vehicle weight had re-loaded the springs (holds the plunger in the hat). This allowed the strut plunger to push up and down inside the hat freely about 1". 

 

After finally looking into the clunk, it has mooshed up the threads pretty good and now I can't get the nut down or off. I'm going to cut the nut off and then run a M12x1.25 die down the threads to see if I can clean it up enough that it looks safe. If that fails I can look into dieing down to a smaller M, but the strut steel looks pretty hard.

 

In order for the die to fit fully down the top hat without disassembling the strut we're going to get creative with the die handle tool and go custom. Maybe even shave down the die itself a smidge. Luckily my buddy has a lathe and workshop.

 

Chalking it up to one of those things. Probably top 2 worst mistakes I've ever made. Worst case scenario I have to get new struts and rebuild, I'll update my thread later with pics and updates on all my projects.

Edited by zakzackzachary
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Thanks for the update. Everybody overlooks things now & then. Thanks for letting your experience be a reminder to us all. I just bit the bullet & purchased OME struts. I could totally make the same error & would be less capable to fix it - so thanks for the forewarning!

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  • 2 weeks later...

End of January update!

 

I've got my drawers about 90% complete. I decided to experiment with a heavy duty drawer style using skateboard bearings and 1" square bar. Would be great for a long truck bed to hold serious weight. In the future I'll save up more pennies for actual drawer slides when I do v2.0-

 

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Next up I tackled the lighting. I decided to not lower my basket and instead mount the lighting kind of low. It works great so far! Fronts, sides (both together), and rear are independent with three rocker switches. Links: switchesfog lightswaterproof 6-pin disconnectzip-tie anchorswiring kitwire loom

 

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And I've had a chance to get out and do some camp spot scouting in the Olympics...

 

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And today I replaced the rear hatch glass struts (RockAuto)... 

 

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So what's next- 

  • Finish cleaning up undercarriage
  • Install new hatch struts
  • Install new cabin blower fan (current one CLICKS annoyingly)
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Wow, well done! those look like quite the projects, and it looks like they all turned out great. I love a good roof rack setup. How bad is the hood glare?

37 minutes ago, zakzackzachary said:

End of January update!

 

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4 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

How bad is the hood glare?

 

 

Thanks! There isn't any hood glare, since the lights are mounted further back and kinda low, they do a great job flood lighting ahead and my favorite is the side lights! Super cool for dark trails.

 

Next up I need to figure out new tires... I'd like to go slightly larger than stock, but don't need anything that requires trimming. Anyone have any size suggestions for my stock 16" rims?

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20 minutes ago, zakzackzachary said:

 

Thanks! There isn't any hood glare, since the lights are mounted further back and kinda low, they do a great job flood lighting ahead and my favorite is the side lights! Super cool for dark trails.

 

Next up I need to figure out new tires... I'd like to go slightly larger than stock, but don't need anything that requires trimming. Anyone have any size suggestions for my stock 16" rims?

Even better! thats perfect. Well, my 2.5 inch spacer lift rubbed with 32x11.5 tires. From roaming around, and personal experience, a 2" lift on 31s would probably be a no-trimming-required combination. And, for anything below a 31" tire (and usually a 31") should not hit your strut mount on stock wheels. So, 30-31 inch tires with no wheel spacers and no trimming should work. However, if by no trimming you also include the caveat of keeping your front splash gaurds, I wouldn't know what to expect with those.

This is the best guide available

Edited by PathyDude17
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11 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

30-31 inch tires with no wheel spacers and no trimming should work. However, if by no trimming you also include the caveat of keeping your front splash gaurds, I wouldn't know what to expect with those.

 

Awesome, yeah that's what I'm thinking, just a bit larger than the OEM 29's(??). I have some spare blank cheapo Rally Armor mud flaps I might see how they look, I'm thinking of doing something similar to Karmann and trim the OEM ones down a smidge. 

 

I'll be sure to do a through digging around on the forum for info. The current tires aren't fully worn down, but they're older from the previous owner so they're starting to crack. I'd like to get some new ones sometime this spring prior to longer summer trips.

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11 minutes ago, zakzackzachary said:

 

Awesome, yeah that's what I'm thinking, just a bit larger than the OEM 29's(??)

OEM would be almost exactly 29. If you haven't come across this or something similar already, I use https://tiresize.com/chart/ for a quick layout of metric to inches conversions and popularly available sizes. They have lots of other great tools too.

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Installed new hatch struts, such a nice upgrade and now I get around +1.5" of height to help reduce forehead damage!

 

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Decided to do the mud flap trim and removed the side steps. If I regret it I'll get some Rally Armor blanks and throw 'em on, but for now I kinda like the look. Truck is a trail rig so a little dirt damage'll be okay. Side steps might end up going back on since they're handy, I just wanted to see what they'd look like. Looks like it'd be easy to fab up some DIY sliders one day.

 

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Got handy with some wire brushes and a pressure washer, then hit a bunch of the rear with some Rustoleum style paint. Didn't really have any rust tbh, but with the new LR Defender springs in the rear I was tired of looking at a dirty axle!

 

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I've got my mind on tires now as the ones on it are kinda old. Based on my research and OEM rim style I'm thinking of going with 260/70R16 (30.3x10.2R16) as that seems to have worked for user erathge. Sound good?

 

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31 minutes ago, zakzackzachary said:

I've got my mind on tires now as the ones on it are kinda old. Based on my research and OEM rim style I'm thinking of going with 260/70R16 (30.3x10.2R16) as that seems to have worked for user erathge. Sound good?

 

Did you mean 265/70r16? I can't find any tires sold in that size... Taking off the running boards was one of the first things I did, they just looked clunky and added to the low rider look that came with my decades old stock suspension, so I love that look! If your goal is no trimming, that tire size should work (30ish by 10ish. Or, at the very least, I have no good reason to believe it wouldn't work. People have fit 30s and 31s on stock suspension with little to no rubbing/trimming, and even 32's with trimming and no lift.

Edited by PathyDude17
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Threw in a new cabin HVAC fan, the old one worked fine, but clicked annoyingly. Nothing was broken, but something within the unit clicked when at even the slightest angle.

 

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Next up the good stuff. Had a long day out exploring the southern Olympics, out in the Wynoochee area if you're familiar. Just cruising some super easy forest roads, doin' a bit of snow hunting. I had my eye on some potential spots and after making it up into the snowline I found a fun path up to a lookout. Blazing fresh tracks in the snow and gaining some fresh pinstrips, the little turnout at the end provided some beautiful mountain views and fresh air. (if video isn't loaded yet, give it a bit, it gives me the URL before it's even finished uploading)

 

 

 

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Funny enough when we got home we had snow coming down pretty good! Ended up getting around 6" at our house which was a nice surprise.

 

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Here's a random neat picture from out at Point Defiance in Tacoma.

 

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And of course, totally fitting-

 

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I'm currently sitting at the Nissan dealership, not gonna lie, I don't really like being at dealerships. I'm looking to see if I can get the seat belts warrantied, and while I'm here they're also gonna look at the two recalls. Apparently one has to do with a filler or dipstick tube? The other I think might be the strut tower. 

 

After their multi-point I'm sure they'll tell me about my rear seal oil leak, probably some bad sway/track bar bushings, who knows what else. 

 

Normally I'd turn down a scratch-tastic wash, but the Nissan is my trail rig so why not!

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I’ve got the RockyRoad Outfitter sliders & I’m waiting for TowndawgR50 & hawairish to make their adapters to the stock mounting position. I find having something to step on & put stuff on besides the rear wheel way too convenient to pull off - especially with kids.

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9 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

I’ve got the RockyRoad Outfitter sliders & I’m waiting for TowndawgR50 & hawairish to make their adapters to the stock mounting position. I find having something to step on & put stuff on besides the rear wheel way too convenient to pull off - especially with kids.

 

I can definitely understand that, I'm thinking I like their utility a lot. Mine may go back on, but they have a smidge of corrosion on the bottom (not visible) that may have let in a bunch of dirt and rocks so the tube is full of debris! Ideally I'd cut the mounts off and DIY my own sliders/steps with tubing. I need a welding day with my shop buddy!

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Yep, that’s the route hawairish & TowndawgR50 are going. hawairish has the older RRO sliders & I have a new set with the kick outs, however, they don’t mount well with regard to the pinch welds. The two them think it would be better to use the stock mount points as they’re more hardy. I’m awaiting that fix. My current running boards ones are the low profile black step as opposed to the tubes so they don’t get in the way much or catch debris. Personally, I think sliders should come right after tires as you can almost irrevocably damage your truck by landing on the rocker.

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No Pathfinder work this weekend, just a snowmageddon report. It's been coming down heavily all weekend, but that's made for some great explorin'! My Alaskan instincts kicked in and I spent the weekend driving around the Kitsap and eastern Olympic Peninsulas, just lookin' to get lost :) Put down about 300 miles in two days o_O

 

 

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Snow-driving video.

 

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More than a couple of these sightings...

 

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Silly dog tax-

 

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Edited by zakzackzachary
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  • 3 weeks later...

Aimed for a trail up near 3000 ft, got stuck at around 500 ft this weekend. Ultimately the 4Runner turned us around, but I wasn't going to get much further. The cables I had helped a TON though. The snow was wet and about 18+ inches deep, that combined with the incline was just too much for me. At least with minimal recovery gear!

 

Next weekend is timing belt, cam/crankshaft seals (maybe), water pump, and valve cover gasket day. Wish me luck.

 

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Edited by zakzackzachary
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Reminds me of a drive a friend and I attempted a few years ago. We didn't expect snow on a forest service road in May, but there it was. We weren't prepared and neither were our trucks, so we ended up turning around before we got both trucks stuck at once or broke something. Gotta throw some chains in the back eventually. What brand are you running?

 

Oh, and good luck on the TB job. Definitely do all the seals, you don't want to get it all back together and end up having to do it again.

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Around here the snow is usually super wet & dense. It can pretty easily compact & high center you as compared to CO/NM/UT snow. I’m guessing AK depends on if your coastal or inland.

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On 2/28/2019 at 3:26 AM, Slartibartfast said:

Reminds me of a drive a friend and I attempted a few years ago. We didn't expect snow on a forest service road in May, but there it was. We weren't prepared and neither were our trucks, so we ended up turning around before we got both trucks stuck at once or broke something. Gotta throw some chains in the back eventually. What brand are you running?

 

Oh, and good luck on the TB job. Definitely do all the seals, you don't want to get it all back together and end up having to do it again.

 

They're just some z-chain cables that I got for free from a coworker. They're maxed out at this 29" tire size so if/when I go with larger tires I'll probably just go for some real chain link chains. They make a huge difference! Since the mountains around here hold onto their snow for so long I'll probably keep at least a set in the trunk for a good portion of summer, you never know!

 

I ordered cam and crank seals so we'll see! I'll be getting started in evenings this week with the big push being on my Friday off.

 

On 3/1/2019 at 7:39 AM, RainGoat said:

Around here the snow is usually super wet & dense. It can pretty easily compact & high center you as compared to CO/NM/UT snow. I’m guessing AK depends on if your coastal or inland.

 

Yeah it's the same way where I'm from. The snow in Juneau is very wet and difficult to drive in. Further up in Anchorage it might be more like CO/NM/UT where it's crisp and cold, more fluffy. Oh yeah and @RainGoat, after the TB change I'm going to be moving forward with a tire carrier build. I'm thinking something along the lines of this built in one, but if that falls through then it'll be a hitch mounted style. I don't know if I'm ready for a DIY bumper yet, but this wouldn't be too bad. OEM mounts are unicorn parts these days it seems.

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That’s a super nice set up! If you decide to retrofit an R50 carrier, they are showing up with some regularity & we’re getting pretty good at mounting them (see yesterday’s SwingGateFest). If you go for a hitch mount, the Wilco HiClearance Solo works very well. It’s costly though so best to grab used or at an Expo (or OR). BTW, consider Northwest Overland Rally (NWOR) or the British Columbia Overland Rally (BCOR). They’re pretty interesting & worth at least a day ticket & camp nearby.

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