Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Tylerknapper1994NP

Cold start

Recommended Posts

When it’s ealry morning and I start my 94’ it doesn’t start that well, I have to give it gas for it to start and hold the gas just a little for about 3-4 seconds before it starts  idling by itself, any ideas what I could be? I got a new battery right before summer and it has never done this before, only happens when it’s completely cold and hasn’t ran in about 4 hours or so. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should be multiport if it's a '94. Runs fine otherwise?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/11/2018 at 11:41 PM, Slartibartfast said:

Should be multiport if it's a '94. Runs fine otherwise?

Yeah, no other problems when it gets goin and running. Just very hard to start. Sometime when I try to start it, the key doesn’t even turn it over, it will just click, and click ever turn of the key until finally it starts starting and than at that point I gotta give it a little gas for it to finally turn over and Idle correctly!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/12/2018 at 8:21 AM, calebdavis96 said:

IACV?

What he said. It's a screw on the back of the intake manifold on the drivers side. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The click/no start (at least in auto-trans models) is usually the ignition switch from what I've read. I recently had a slow cranking issue and a no click/no start that I thought was a worn-out starter, but the replacement did the same thing until I replaced the ignition switch as well. Unplug the signal wire for the starter (grey plug, attached to a bracket on the side of the starter or dangling nearby if the last person who had the starter out didn't have time to mess around with the stupid bracket) and can hook up a test lead to the side coming from the starter. If the engine cranks poorly on the ignition switch, but cranks properly when you touch the test wire to battery +, the solenoid isn't getting the power it needs from the switch. The switch itself (not the lock cylinder) is cheap and surprisingly easy to swap out. (You can also hotwire it right from the ignition switch by bridging the black/yellow and black/white wires, which may be easier than getting to the starter wiring, especially if the bracket's still there.)

 

The hard starting once it is turning over does sound like an idle control issue, but I doubt the idle screw moved on its own. More likely an idle component isn't working for some reason. I solved a stalling-at-lights-once-warmed-up problem on mine by cleaning the plug for the IACV (tower-looking deal at the driver's rear of the motor) and re-bending the female pins a little because they were loose. You might also have a look at the plug for the other idle valve (the IACV-AAC), which is the one with the screw. I'm not sure why there are two idle valves, but there are.

Also make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Doesn't sound like it's the starting issue but it's easy to check, and worth a look if the issue started when you swapped the battery.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...