Jump to content

Front Brakes and Rear Shock Advice


jscricca
 Share

Recommended Posts

I need help figuring out whether my rear springs or shocks are blown.  I'm 99% sure the KYB shock failed but I've heard the rear springs on the R50 sag with time.  When we bought the car with 80k miles the KYBs were newish and we now have 130k with.  The only mod is a the SF Creations 1 inch spacer on the rear shocks.

 

Right now the left rear is about 1.5 inches lower than the right side.  The left shock is also about 1.5 inches shorter.  How can I confirm the shock is blown?

 

I'd like to get something better since we do some mild off roading and camping a few times a year.  Can I get the Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber - 33-185552 to work?  I know these are for lifted SUVs but not sure the 1 inch spacer is significant enough.  Is there a 4600 that will work?

 

Thoughts?  What modifications will I have to make for the sleeves?  

 

 

 

We are also running low on the front pads...

 

I usually get Centric rotors and a high quality sport pad on previous vehicles, but this will be my first SUV brake job. 

I'm trying to evaluate the following options and would love feedback from anyone who's bought these kits. I'm leaning towards EBC because of their reputation, but not sure I should drop $210 on the Greenstuff kit.


+ Powerstop Z36 - $160-  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3804288&cc=1431952&jsn=430
+ EBC Stage 1 - $160 - https://www.shopebcbrakes.com/EBC-Stage-1-Street-Kit/p21?sku=
+ EBC Greenstuf- $208- https://www.shopebcbrakes.com/EBC-Stage-14-Light-Truck-SUV-Kit/p99694?sku=


With 130k miles on it and I'm wondering if I should replace all the front hub/wheel bearings and components or just re-grease the existing. I've never owned or replaced a hub/wheel bearings so this is new territory for me. I think I can get replacements for $40 so it might be worth it while I'm in there. Is it overkill or a good idea?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shocks aren't supposed to support the weight of the truck, so if it's sagging that much, you probably need new springs too. If you jump on the back of the truck, once you jump off, it should immediately recenter and stop. If it continues to bounce around, the shocks are blown. If you can move the shocks easily with your hands when you get them off, they're blown.

 

I bought my truck about 10 years ago with 130k miles. The shocks failed pretty quickly. The springs seemed ok, but I installed 2 inch lift springs from A/C Customizers anyway. If I could do it over, I'd probably have used OME lift springs because I understand they are a little softer. It rides a little rough now, but it handles much better. At that time I bought some Rancho shocks that A/C Customizers said were factory fit. They weren't, but I made them work, and they are going strong today at 250k miles, so can't really advise on shocks. You don't need extended length shocks though, especially if you don't extend your rear brake lines.

 

Your first 4wd SUV brake job will be a long and messy job compared to a passenger car. But it is entirely doable if you accept it as a learning opportunity, go slow, and use the factory service manual. I haven't used the brands you are considering. Though my ceramic pads may have been Centric.

 

I replaced my front brake pads with ceramic about 3 years ago I think, that I bought pre-emptively about 8 years ago. I used Autozone mid-grade brake rotors. Within a year they had developed brake jidder. After research I don't really blame the rotors. I think I didn't pre-clean them thoroughly enough, and I may have pressed on the brake after some high speed hot stops, which is a no-no. I replaced them with NAPA's store brand high grade rotors, and cleaned the hell out of them with soap and water, and then degreaser, and was very careful to not contaminate them with grease when re-installing. So far, so good.

 

Hub/wheel bearing replacement is overkill if you are able to set the pre-load correctly and don't find evidence of a spun bearing when you are in there after cleaning everything up initially. I did replace the grease seals, and used synthetic grease in one of those bearing greasing cups that pushes clean grease thoroughly through the bearing.

 

You'll need to buy the bearing socket, or get the Ford 4 prong socket and grind off 2 of the prongs, and shape the other 2 tongs down to work on the Pathfinder. 

 

Some people also completely wing the pre-load process. I half did. I used my regular torque wrench to tighten the bearing nut down to the spec (which is very high), rotated the hub as you are supposed to, backed off the nut until it was free, and then I didn't have a torque wrench that had a low enough range to set the final pre-load. If you want to do it right, you need one that goes down to about 10 inch pounds. In the end I did it by feel. Then if you want to be able to validate you got it right, you should buy a fish scale so you can use it to measure the brake force to start the hub turning.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd much rather prefer communication through NPORA.

I 2nd this, NPORA is my preferred forum.

Here’s an excerpt from a recent thread Astrorami & I had regarding drilled &/or slotted rotors on off road vehicles. Pros & Cons so just for your consideration.

“I’m a fan for street cars & actually have them on my wife’s MDX (though that was a gift from my brother for helping him put them on his car). They certainly don’t hurt street performance (though they probably eat pads a little quicker-a trade off I can accept).

Over the years, I’ve had small rocks & grit get caught up on rotors in several different rigs. Often they will clear on their own but more than once I’ve seen a stone significantly mar up a rotor. If you catch it quick enough, I first try reversing then with a light brake application. If that fails, I’ve taken my brakes apart to extract them before. There’s nothing more grating than a long drive with the sound of a rock continually digging into your rotor. I think this is worst in the desert, which I believe is where most of mine have happened. The AZ desert is particularly bad because the igneous rocks that litter AZ are hard as can be & often can have glass like edges-they cut through everything-tires, boots, paws, feet, etc. Even the dust in AZ can scratch your windows & plastic (my main dials have a haze from me not properly rolling my cloth up as I wiped my car down after trips when I first moved there).

That said.....[drille/slotted rotors]...will undoubtedly have better road performance &, given that no matter who you are, our trucks still spend more time on road than off, you should have a net gain.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I installed 2 inch lift springs from A/C Customizers anyway. If I could do it over, I'd probably have used OME lift springs because I understand they are a little softer. It rides a little rough now, but it handles much better. 

Your first 4wd SUV brake job will be a long and messy job compared to a passenger car.


Great note. You are not alone on the A/C vs OME springs & why I’m ultimately using OME up front.

For the OP be aware that there is a whole thread on NPORA regarding using Land Rover Defender 90 Springs for the rear. It’s a big thread but I think I have a recent summary towards the end.

Your brake job notes were very thorough & have disuaded me from doing it any time soon. For the OP, doing just the pads in the front is as easy as a passenger car (I’m often too lazy to turn my rotors if they look good but it’s definitely preferable).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...