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Wacky_Pathy

Wanting to Stall

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It's always something with these trucks :headwall: My engine has been stuttering when I'm coasting in a low gear, and has been wanting to stall at idle. I've checked the injectors, spark plugs, and I turned the ECU idle speed up a tad but I'm not sure that it will do anything. I also adjusted the throttle cable because the throttle response was lagging a bit but that was before this incident. Any ideas on what the issue may be?

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It's a 92 MT

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Anybody?

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Alot of things it could be, first things I would go for would be an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. A vacuum leak after the throttle body. Or the MAF Itself . Next do a cyl Ballance test by pulling one plug wire at a time while running. If you pull a wire and there is no change in how the truck runs that cyl may be at fault for the issue. And before you put any money towards it save yourself a headache and do a compression test. I learned the hard way my valves were toast after doing, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new injectors, on and on. Took me 30 min with a compression tester to find my problem.

 

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Also any recent work done, how many miles, does it happen all the time or just hot, cold, slowly getting worse or an all of the sudden issue etc etc. More info the better

 

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It got a new starter in January and new Exhaust in February. Odometer stopped at 152k so I'd say at least 180k. It is all of the sudden and random. If I do a pull through all 4 gears up to 65, it won't do it for about 10 minutes.

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If a hard pull cleans it up could be looking at a leaking injector, may only show up at low rpm/ idle. I just had one do a similar thing to me. I figured it out by unplugging the injectors one at a time. The culprit showed up because when I unplugged number 3 injector the engine ran better and near perfect when I revved it up a little, because the engine was running on the fuel leaking from the injector instead of the regular injector pulse. With the leak plus injector pulse the cyl was getting way too much fuel. Easy task on 1 3 5 pain in the rear for 2 4 6

 

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Posted (edited)

Upon further inspection, the #5 injector housing will come off, but the actual system stays on the spark plug. It is running super rich and when I'm driving its all good but idling is a little low and struggles a little bit when taking off

Edited by Wacky_Pathy

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Looked at the ECU and got a code 51 aka Ignition Circuit ???? RIP

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51 is injector circuit, not ignition. Means there's an open circuit on an injector. If the #5 injector came out in pieces (I assume that's what you meant with the thing about the spark plug?) then that's where I'd start looking. You can check across its pins for resistance.

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If you need an injector let me know I have some spares in my garage I'd let you have

 

 

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I'll have to PM you if that is the case. I have one other question regarding tranny fluid. I've read all the threads on it. I bought Lucas 75W-90 and it says it EXCEEDS Gl4 and Gl5. Safe to use or take it back?

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After reading about guys having their synchros drain out as glitter in the trans fluid, I'd play it safe and find a straight GL-4 fluid. The issue apparently is an anti-wear additive that works great for hardened steel gears but is hard on the softer metals used for the synchros. GL-5 has about twice as much of this vs GL-4. So, yes, it meets or exceeds the additive spec of GL-4, in the same way that straight Everclear meets or exceeds the alcohol content of a rum and Coke.

 

I assume you've read the TSB for over-filling as well.

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Makes sense to me. I was a little confused by it so thanks buddy. I guess I'll take my happy ass down to autozone later tomorrow after my final tests and get some.

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Straight gl4 can be hard to find locally and the guy at the parts counter probably won't be much help. But online you can find it easy. I use amsoil syncromesh it's available in multiple viscosities and is gl4 spec.

 

 

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Yea you is right about it being hard to find.

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Any of the "syncromesh" ones will be fine.

 

Personally i use GM Syncromesh as any chev dealer will have it and it works well in old and worn out transmissions.

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What viscosity level do you use?

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I used 75w90 I believe. I know it was already mentioned in this therad but check out the TSB on needing to overfill the trans. Capacity is in one of the stickies here. Had to jack up one side of the truck to get enough in mine.

 

 

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Straight GL4, as Adam mentioned the syncromesh should be okay, but I cannot personally vouch for that. Normally recommended oil is RedLine MT90. Can be a bit pricey but I've been running it for quite a few years, 5523 (a certified Nissan tech) also runs it and we've had no issues since.

 

Read through the following topics (there are several more like these if you search for key words.)

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41256-royal-purple-manual-trans-fluid/

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39827-tranny-fluid-question/

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I assume you've read the TSB for over-filling as well.

 

 

I know it was already mentioned in this therad but check out the TSB on needing to overfill the trans. Capacity is in one of the stickies here. Had to jack up one side of the truck to get enough in mine.

 

 

:yeahthat: Just making sure that this was not missed B)

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Posted (edited)

 

 

 

 

:yeahthat: Just making sure that this was not missed B)

Yea it wasn't. Thank yall for all of yalls help. I read them all couple times and I feel much more educated than I am in school :lol:

Edited by Wacky_Pathy
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Posted (edited)

Well after having read several articles talking about the state of your public education system, you're probably right.

Edited by adamzan

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Ok y'all. It was a vacuum leak kinda. It needed oil bad and some other crap. I topped off the oil with 10W-30 which subsided the idling and power issue tremendously.

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