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Headers - time to bite the bullet


Zed
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Well, at least they got the passenger side off w/o any problems.

Had a lengthy talk - I'm convinced they at least know what they are doing.

 

Picked up some Grade 8 studs (w/washers and nuts) to make sure this job is done right.

 

Hopefully they can make it work. Now I just need to figure out a mid-pipe solution ( and cat).

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The guys doing the work are just auto repair. There is no muffler shop in town.

 

Adamzan: There is not a lot of room where the Y-pipe meets the intermediate pipe - due to the crossmember. What mid-pipe works there? Where did you get yours at?

 

I got it on rock auto. Just a stock replacement mid pipe. The headers are designed to bolt to the factory exhaust so its an easy fit.

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Sadly, there is no intermediate pipe available - anywhere....all discontinued or unavailable.

 

For those interested. Bosal (#751-879) and Walker (#43611) are the OEM replacement part numbers. (for 94-94, 4WD, M/T, non-CA).

 

Looks like I'll be screaming down the highway for a few hours to get to a muffler shop to fab one.

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Well, job is done....Very pleased with the work - and the price was very reasonable.

 

Still need to find a shop to do the fab work after the Y-pipe. Anybody in the Phoenix area that can recommend a good exhaust shop?

 

Having a hard time finding a plug for the extra hole above the EGR tube. Seems like a M25x1.5 thread, but that's ballpark. Any suggestions out there on a plug?

 

Also recognized that it's going to be very hard access to oil filter - AND starter. Might be looking to install an oil relocation filter kit.

 

 

Edited by Zed
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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

Got a mid pipe fabbed (with bung for O2) with a high flow cat. Nice work for $200.

Now that's all sealed up - I noticed the driver side header is leaking (thought it was the Y-pipe/mid-pipe connection).

It seems they did not remove the engine hoist bracket - like I informed them. Didn't bother to check.

So now my gasket is toast. Have to order a new set.

 

Some lessons learned here. Also ordered a set of steel band clamps for the Y-pipe connections. Those U-clamps you get in the package are stupid..

 

It's always something. Hopefully by next week this thing will be on the road. I'll be sure to take some pics (if anyone is interested).

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did you also get that other hole plugged? I am sure you did, but if not, I ended up just welding a cheap socket into the hole. found one that fit, welded it in and filled the 3/8" drive hole. Sucks about the exhaust leak!! ive had mine work its way lose and blew out a gasket on the drivers side. changing it wasn't to bad.

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Yes, I ordered an oil plug (M24 x 1.5).

 

The pacesetter headers seem to be a good option for those looking to put headers on... but here's a couple of tips (summary) for those interested in doing this job...

 

1. Expect a few studs to break off in the head. If your on the driver's side, you might have to remove the AC compressor (if you have one), and air intake to have access. Having a lift or access through the wheel well is useful. Buy a set (12) studs and nuts. A lot of people are talking Grade 8 (300ZX, etc..), but a decent set of stainless steel studs should work fine or $50-$60.

 

2. You will have to bend the EGR tube to fit in to the hole in the header. To get it aligned properly and to clear the steering shaft.

 

3. You must remove the engine hoist bracket to get the Pacesetter flush against the head. Two bolts at the rear (drivers side)

 

4. Don't bother looking for an off the shelf mid-pipe - there are none available. Ditch the original pre-cat (resonator?) and cat.

Have a muffler shop fab a mid-pipe with proper flange to mate with Y-pipe. Make sure you save the gasket Pacesetter supplies you.
I added a high flow cat behind it. Everything is 2.5" after the Cat (Muffler and tailpipe).

 

5. Either weld a bolt or get an oil plug (M24 x 1.5) to plug up the second hole on the driver side header.

 

6. Ditch the 2" U-clamps that come with the header package (to clamp down the headers to the Y-pipe - slip fit). Go with steel band clamps. This will ensure no leakage.

 

7.. You should consider an oil filter relocation kit. It's pretty tight getting access to the oil filter. It's not impossible to change, but might be worth your time while your putting the headers on. Access to the starter will also be difficult...

 

I'm pretty pleased over all with the Pacesetter (armor-coat). Adds a significant growl to the engine, seems to have added a few more HP (good acceleration response), and hope to see some better gas mileage (we'll see).

 

Hopefully this helps someone doing this job....

 

Thanks to all for the tips, comments and suggestions..

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I’ve got a set of pacesetter’s on my 95, fit was actually very good. I plugged one the useless hole with a steel pipe plug and welded that in. I relocated the O2 sensor close the EGR tube to facilitate it heating up on cold starts and drive ability issues. The EGR tube doesn’t really have a good fit in the bung on the header, but, it seals up ok. As for the y-pipe, I used the factory on, cut it apart, added slip fit connectors at the collectors with the with wide strap/band type exhaust clamps and a slip fit between the y that connects the left to the right down pipe and just used standard exhaust clamps there. It takes a little bit of finagling to get it all together, but, once done, it sealed up just fine.

 

I did add an oil filter relocation kit and moved the filter to the drivers side wheel well. Not the optimal place for it, but, at least it’s easy to get to. I will eventually add a removable guard to protect the filter from punctures.

 

Also note: if you decide against the relocation kit, lord help ya, because your gonna need it. Only $30 on eBay will save you a ton of cussing and lost tools due to them flying when you start cussing.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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  • 2 years later...

Sorry for old bump;

 

 

Im looking at getting headers for my 01/1990 2-Door WD21, 4x4, VG30E, manual transmission.

 

Are the pace-setters and doug-thorleys only made to fit on the 1990-1995 4-door SE models?  Or will they fit on my 2Door?

 

I am confused by the fact that I have a early 1990 2-door SE, which seems to suggest I should look for 87-89 headers.  But I dont have a VG30i, its instead a VG30E.

 

Help?

 

----edit ---

 

Here is what I've learned

 
- From 1985 to 1989 Pathfinders were available with 2-door body, either the VG30i or the diesel
 
-The four-door Pathfinder was introduced in October 1989, and in early 1990 it became only a four door. 
 
-Some US 1990 Pathfinders came with the two door body, but they are rare. (mine is one of these, apparently!)
 
-1990 the V6 received an upgrade from VG30i to VG30e.
 
----2nd edit ---
 
So I need to find headers that will meet requirements of 90-95VG30e fitment, and being a 86-89 2-door body style, and a manual 4x4...anyone can help with this?
 
Mike at AC says " I have never ran into this situation with 2 door Pathfinder that had VG30E."
😃
Edited by 9heart
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You've got a rare critter! Most two-doors had the TBI (VG30I) and the four-doors had multiport (VG30E), so that's why they're marked as two-door and four-door. The actual body shouldn't make a difference, AFAIK they're only different from the B pillars back. The smog controls are different between the two engines, which I assume is why there are two styles of header available. Unless Nissan did something really weird, I'd expect yours to take the '90-'95 headers to match the engine.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Agreed with these two characters also... the 90-95 should fit fine, just make sure that you remove the engine hoist bracket on the back of the left side head BEFORE you put them on.

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