Jump to content

Pathfinder won't crank, or click


Pinski86
 Share

Recommended Posts

A few days ago I went to start my truck, opened the door interior light came on, I put the key in the ignition and as soon as I turned the key there was no power inside the truck. The headlights still work, battery is at operating range. I know its an electrical issue I just have no idea where to start for trouble shooting. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume you mean when you turn the key to start position? That is normal, no accessories should be powered when trying to start. They should all come back on when you turn it back to run.

 

As far as the no start, no click, start with battery cables. Look for corrosion or looseness. After that, try wiggiling the key while turning it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may also want to take a multi-meter to the fusible links to see if voltage is running through them ( most people just ignore them until nothing works ). tapping the relays may also help but won't fix anything, just point you in a direction.

 

As in any electrical system (on a car) start at the battery, then test the thickest wires leading away from the battery, then test the grounds to the body, motor and starter in that order. The tests should be for voltage first and _after_ you remove the battery post connectors, for resistance. Voltage should read battery voltage to the tenth of a volt everywhere you test, resistance should be 00.00 to 00.03 from one end of a cable to the other. Don't forget to wiggle stuff and re-measure. Keep doing that for every smaller wire in the system shown in the FSM (download from nicoclub.com ). Once you get better at doing this you'll be able to take some shortcuts. UNTIL you get better at diagnostics, stick with this method as it is _infallible_ for finding the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Citron, as soon as I start to turn the key even to the accessory position it kills the dome lights inside the truck as well as giving me absolutely nothing when I attempt to start the truck.

Specialwarr, I will download the FSM from nicoclub and see if I can track down anything with a multi-meter. Thanks for referring me to nicoclub.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds like a bad connection to your battery. You can either test the voltage post-to-post and compare to voltage clamp-to-clamp or just beat the posts/clamps with a hammer or rock to knock the crap away and make better connection.

 

If that's not the issue, check the voltage when you turn the key to the start position. A good battery will only draw down to 10+ volts while a battery with a bad cell will drop below 10.

 

If that's not the issue, throw your meter on the heavy wire going to your starter and to ground. If you have 12V, its probably not the battery

 

If you check voltage to the little wire to the solenoid (to ground) and turn the key to start... if no voltage, yo have a relay problem or ignition switch problem. If 12v, your starter is bad

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still start with battery checks. Then fusible links like SpecialWarr suggested. If all ok, then I would check the ignition switch circuit. It sounds like that may be the problem, since no accessories are coming on with the key in accessory position. Fuses, relays etc in that circuit. You can find those from the FSM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

A few days ago I went to start my truck, opened the door interior light came on, I put the key in the ignition and as soon as I turned the key there was no power inside the truck. The headlights still work, battery is at operating range. I know its an electrical issue I just have no idea where to start for trouble shooting. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

I had the exact same issue with my pathy, it’s an issue with corrosion in the connection at the positive battery cable at the battery. The blade connector gets a little bit loose and develops corrosion just like the positive terminal. I stripped the fuse link ends and replaced the push-lock connector with a ring terminal. Problem solved, at least that was mine.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...