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uncle.penny

Complete fuel sending unit?

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Fuel pump fuse keeps blowing almost immediately after starting, I already "fixed" a couple of the corroded wires (the ones going into the 4 white caps at the top of the unit) by crimping on new tabs and using tiny machine screws to hold them onto the contacts, but I think I may have either buggered it or the circuit has gone bad inside the actual sending unit top pan that bolts into the tank. I've searched online all morning for a complete unit, and the part numbers I've come up with are either discontinued, don't look like the one in my 95, or are 320US+shipping.

 

A wrecker in town has an 89 V6 in the yard which I`m considering robbing from, even though it`s probably worse than the one in mine. I know they're different part numbers after 92, but I've read that it would still work.

 

Barring that, does anyone have a good source that would have the complete unit which includes the harness tail coming off the top? Or any fix that would work?

 

As much as it pains me to say this thing has been giving me various amounts of grief for the past month or so. at this point I'm just considering fixing it to sell and buy a beater Echo or something like that. :unsure:

Edited by uncle.penny

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if you weren't so far I'd go down to pickapart and pull one for you, I've got 4 or 5 of them within about 30 miles of me

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You can still get a new one from Nissan, if you have to. That's the route I'll probably go.

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Fuel pump fuse keeps blowing almost immediately after starting, I already "fixed" a couple of the corroded wires (the ones going into the 4 white caps at the top of the unit) by crimping on new tabs and using tiny machine screws to hold them onto the contacts, but I think I may have either buggered it or the circuit has gone bad inside the actual sending unit top pan that bolts into the tank. I've searched online all morning for a complete unit, and the part numbers I've come up with are either discontinued, don't look like the one in my 95, or are 320US+shipping.

 

A wrecker in town has an 89 V6 in the yard which I`m considering robbing from, even though it`s probably worse than the one in mine. I know they're different part numbers after 92, but I've read that it would still work.

 

Barring that, does anyone have a good source that would have the complete unit which includes the harness tail coming off the top? Or any fix that would work?

 

As much as it pains me to say this thing has been giving me various amounts of grief for the past month or so. at this point I'm just considering fixing it to sell and buy a beater Echo or something like that. :unsure:

 

 

I'm doing a JY Scavenger Run this week. I can look for a unit if you're interested. Cost would be whatever the JY charges, plus shipping, and a small admin fee of maybe $5 or $10 depending on how long it takes me to yank it out.

 

Let me know if you're interested. PM me or email me at blackntanwd21s@gmail.com

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if you weren't so far I'd go down to pickapart and pull one for you, I've got 4 or 5 of them within about 30 miles of me

Yeah, bit of a ways away but it's the thought that counts! haha

 

You can still get a new one from Nissan, if you have to. That's the route I'll probably go.

Really? I called a couple dealers in town and they couldn't find a part number for me, you don't happen to have a number do you?

 

 

 

I'm doing a JY Scavenger Run this week. I can look for a unit if you're interested. Cost would be whatever the JY charges, plus shipping, and a small admin fee of maybe $5 or $10 depending on how long it takes me to yank it out.

 

Let me know if you're interested. PM me or email me at blackntanwd21s@gmail.com

I may end up taking you up on that! What day are you heading there?

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So I poked around with my multimeter today. I checked the resistance at the sending unit harness connector for the two wires that go to the fuel pump itself and I was only getting 1-2 ohms, am I crazy or does that seem low? I thought electric motors are naturally supposed to have some resistance in them, which leads me to believe it might be shorting out across the sending unit cap cutting the pump out of the circuit entirely. Would that cause the fuse to keep blowing?

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That’s probably a bad fuel pump then. I’m not sure what the exact spec is for a vehicle fuel pump motor but 1ohm is something you’d see between leads on a big DC motor.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by onespiritbrain

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Yeah, bit of a ways away but it's the thought that counts! haha

 

Really? I called a couple dealers in town and they couldn't find a part number for me, you don't happen to have a number do you?

 

I may end up taking you up on that! What day are you heading there?

https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-sending-unit-2506185p05/?c=Zz1mdWVsLXN5c3RlbSZzPWZ1ZWwtc3lzdGVtLWNvbXBvbmVudHMmaT0zNjE1MTU1NCZyPTEwJmE9bmlzc2FuJm89cGF0aGZpbmRlciZ5PTE5OTUmdD1zZSZlPTMtMGwtdjYtZ2Fz

 

SENDING UNIT - NISSAN (25061-85P05)

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This is from smj999smj over on the nico club forums:

 

According to the wiring diagram, there are two, BLACK/WHITE wires at the fuel pump relayharness connector which are powered by a single, 10A fuse. So, if you unplug the fuel pump relay, you should confirm power at those two wires with a 12v test light with the key in "ON" or "START" positions. The fuel pump relay harness connector has two more wires: WHITE/BLUE and RED/BLUE. The RED/BLUE wire is part of the ground circuit for the fuel pump relay's solenoid(which is inside of the relay). When the relay is energized, it causes the switch side of the relay to close and send power to the fuel pump and the IACV air regulator. The RED/BLUE wire goes from the fuel pump relay harness connector to ECM pin #104 ; it is the ECM that provides the ground to this circuit. So, with the ECM and fuel pump relay disconnected, you should have no continuity between chassis ground and the RED/BLUE wire (if it does, then it is shorted). You should also have good continuity through the RED/BLUE wire with no excessive resistance when testing from the relay harness connector to the #104 pin of the ECM harness connector. Also, ECM harness connector pin #115 , a BLACK wire, should have good continuity to ground as it is the ground for the ECM.
The WHITE/BLUE wire at the fuel pump harness connector starts as a single wire then splices (probably the reason why the wire is smaller at the pump connector), one to the IACV air regulator, which powers the air regulator and goes to ground. The other side of the splice goes to the fuel pump, where it powers the pump and goes to ground. If you jump a BLACK/WHITE wireto the WHITE/BLUE wire and the key is "on," you should have power to the fuel pump. If you don't, you have an open circuit in the WHITE/BLUE wire and it needs to be traced and repaired (I would also check for power at the IACV air regulator if there is no power at the pump because it may help out in the diagnosis of the open and tracing it).
If you do have power to the pump when you jumped the relay, remove the jump wire and install a known good relay. If that doesn't fix it, it would be likely that the driver is bad inside the ECM and the ECM needs to be replaced.

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Heading to JY today and tomorrow. Let me know asap.

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If you find one, let me know. As well as rear disk parking brake cables... I'll pay whatever you ask, lol.

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Very late update, but I fixed the pump a little more properly. The power wire going to the pump itself was shorting against the sending unit cap since the grommet had worn out. Just took the grommet out, put a small section of fuel line through, fed the wire through the fuel line to isolate it, used gas-resistant epoxy to seal it all up, soldered the power wire on the outside of the cap and it's been running fine for the past 3 or so weeks!

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