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Where does factory fog light switch wiring connect to steering column wiring harness?


morgant
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TL;DR: Where is the purple wire from the factory fog lamp switch supposed to connect in the steering column wiring harness?

 

I bought my 93 WD21 SE-V6 with the front bumper dented and one of the stock fog lamps smashed, both lamps were non-functional. I had a pair of Hella Rallye 3000s from another vehicle that I decided to wire up and they match the 55W rating of the factory Bosche fog lamps, so figured Id use the stock fog lamp wiring until I can find a replacement for the unobtainable Bosche lamp.

 

The wiring all looked good, traced it all back to the relay, battery, and the switch in the center console. Wired the pair of Rallye 3000s, but the switch didnt light up and no relay click. No popped fuse. Lights on, high beams off.

 

Tracing the wiring into the steering column, the purple wire to the switch isnt connected to anything in the steering column. Theres a pink wire that has an inline terminal, but its not connected to anything (though it does look like the purple wire could have pulled out of it). Since there are no wiring diagrams for the factory fog lamps, I figured Id ask you all to see if anyone has the stock SE-V6 fog lamps and where your purple wire is connected in the steering column wiring harness.

 

Any assistance would be appreciated!

 

Update: Oh, andyesI did read through the Fog lights dont work thread.

Edited by morgant
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It's been a while since my fog lights were hooked up like factory, but yes, the + feed going to the switch comes from one of the low beam connections, and taps in near the headlight switch plug on the steering column. I think the pink wire you're seeing is for the marker lights, and the suitcase connector on there would've held the wire for the alarm system (so it can flash the marker lights). I don't remember the color codes for the low beam wires offhand but I want to say they're red with a colored stripe (easy enough to check the service manual or your headlight plugs). If the truck came with fogs, and someone removed them, look for another wire going to the headlight switch with a connector on it or with the vampire bite in the insulation from having one of those things clamped on.

 

Also, are those rally lights floods or spots? The factory fogs have a very diffused pattern that shouldn't glare oncoming drivers anywhere near as much as driving lights do. I've got the factory fogs and a set of Bosch driving lights on mine (used to have Hellas until a deer stole one) and I've got the switch for the factory fogs tapped into the low beam and the switch for the driving lights tapped into the high beam. That way I can use them on the street without blinding people and without having to work a second switch whenever there's oncoming traffic.

Edited by Slartibartfast
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  • 1 month later...

My factor fog light switch is on the driver's side next to the E-Brake. I have a 95 SE with 6 switches located next to the E-Brake.

 

2 Bottom: Heated Front Seats

2 Middle:

- Drivers Side - Fog Lights

- Passenger Side - Suspension Adjustments

2 Top:

- Drivers Side - Rear Glass Pop Switch

- Passenger Side - Factory Car Alarm

 

Hope this Helps.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got back to this today with the wiring diagram from the Haynes manual (ugh) and the multimeter. I couldn't get good access with the probes on my multimeter (need narrower ones) to test the light switch wiring with the connector inserted & ignition on in various positions, so I just figured out which wires are paired when the light switch is off and positions A (parking lights), B (head lights), and C (high beams).

 

My notes from this session are:

- The two wires with vampire bites are R/B & P/L.

- There's a disconnected P wire that I found tiny print on saying "PARK LIGHT". My guess (very much a guess) is that the P parking light wire was connected to the P/L wire since the pair of connections that the two pink wires (incl. P/L) connect to are joined when the light switch is in position A (parking lights) with the ignition off.

- The disconnected PU wire from the factory fog lights switch in the center console was probably (again, guessing) connected to the R/B wire. That one isn't specifically joined when the light switch is in position B (head lights) with the ignition off, but it's pair connector (R/G, IIRC) is.

- I believe the R/W wire was connected when the light switch was in position C (high beam) with the ignition off, so I believe it is likely the one to connect to if I want to switch the factory fog lamps switch to engage only when high beams are on, instead of low beams (the factory setup).

 

As to the rally lamps type, they are driving lights and I only intend to use them on back roads or off road, but I'd naturally prefer them be paired with my high beams anyway.

 

I need to get some more PU wire of the same gauge as the remaining wire was clearly clipped short, plus I prefer the positap connectors over the regular crimp tap connectors, so I'll report back once I've picked those up and tested.

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  • 3 months later...

Several months later, I have took a few minutes to do some testing and confirmed that connecting the PU (purple) wire from the factory fog lamp switch to aforementioned wires has the following effects:

 

- P/L has power whenever the lights are on (position A, B, or C), allowing the fog lamps to be turned on in any mode

- R/B has power only when the lights are on in position B (low beam), automatically switching off the fog lamp switch in position C (high beams)

 

I'll definitely be wiring to R/W so that my driving lamps only come on with the high beams (using the factory fog lamp wiring).

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just FYI, there is some sort of law out there that says what you're doing is illegal, and could cause you to fail a state inspection (if your state does physical inspections). It is a requirement for fog lamps to turn off if the low beams are turned off.  EG, in the parking lamp or high beam position.  Just a disclaimer, don't know if you know, but you do you yo! More light at night on the back roads is never a bad thing.

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  • 2 months later...

I appreciate the advice. In my state, I was required to remove the non-functional fog lamps and their housings to pass inspection. So, reusing the now-unused wiring harnesses shouldn't be a problem since it'd be legal for me to install driving lamps & a wiring harness anyway. The driving lamps are entirely different from the fog lamps and installed in a different location, so I'm not worried.

 

Edit: And, to clarify—as I understand it—driving lights should function the opposite of fog lamps: turn on with high beams and turn off with low beams; which is what I'm going for.

Edited by morgant
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