Mrelcocko Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Well here I going again. Not bad for 500$. I've already started the undercoating process here's a few before and after shots. Of course the factory step rails rusted through as expected. I bought some rails from pull a part and year ago for my 97 QX4 Fixer upper and never used them. I'm gonna put them on. I've started to refurbish them too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/35478bad1fd54fcbb1911f70720870ba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/b332530f33970e8fc866084648726ec5.jpg Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 Well here I going again. Not bad for 500$. I've already started the undercoating process here's a few before and after shots. Of course the factory step rails rusted through as expected. I bought some rails from pull a part and year ago for my 97 QX4 Fixer upper and never used them. I'm gonna put them on. I've started to refurbish them too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/35478bad1fd54fcbb1911f70720870ba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/b332530f33970e8fc866084648726ec5.jpg Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/2afb63083a4faf5af77188a0e6b06185.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/a6641075b632ee2de6b9500aa9edbaac.jpg Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Wow, an R50 with no holes in the towers! Undercoat looks good. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 Wow, an R50 with no holes in the towers! Undercoat looks good.That's the first thing I checked when I went to look at it. It's got some surface rust in places. The body is straight. All the doors open and close right and all the windows work. Of course with the windows they work but the back 2 are slow going up. I've got a long way to go and a lot of time to get there. Here's my other two I've done and thought I'd share. Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Had a terrible squeak appear. Figured it was a pulley or maybe a belt I checked everything I knew to check and then happened to grab the crank/Harmonic balancer and I found the problem. It seems the rubber seal disintegrated allowing the serpentine pulleys on the crank to spin freely. The fan was missing 3 blades which had a wobble and maybe over time that caused the seal to fall apart. I ordered a new harmonic balancer, along with a fan and coolant tank. The original tank was falling to pieces. Also while I had more room in the bay I detailed the motor. Here's some pics to show the progress. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 If you want to know how to get your intake and the rest of your aluminum to shine like this. Take a wire brush or a drimmel with a wire bit and go to town. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Installed the step rails I got from a 02 Pathy from pull a part which I already had. I've had them for over a year and was thinking I wasted money buying them, but what a better time to use them since the originals were rusted beyond repair. Here's a couple of undercoating pics. Turned out really good in my book. The wiper washer didn't operate front nor the back. Found that both pumps are froze up. Had 2 laying around and installed them. Now the washer works. My Pathy has a electric antenna but it's broken so gonna get one from pull a part the next time I go. More to come folks #96pathysefixerupper Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 I feel like I may have asked before, but I can't remember. Could you share your technique and products used for undercoating? It looks fantastic! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 I feel like I may have asked before, but I can't remember. Could you share your technique and products used for undercoating? It looks fantastic!It's time consuming, but we'll worth it. I jack the car up on all fours. Take your choice of degrease. Spray soaking parts of the under body that your going to be painting. Let soak for 10min. Take high pressure preferably HOT high pressure (cold will do) spraying real good removing as much dirt and oil as possible. Lay on your back to really make it easier and to get those tough to reach places. Let dry real good. Get multiple sizes of wire brushes along with microfiber towels. Brush everything that has surface rust along with anything and everything you see fit. Rinse off dust, let dry. Once dry take 9 cans of Rustoleum Undercoating $2.99 and spray away. I put 3 coats on mine. This stuff covers great. Watch for over spray. Good luck! Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 It's time consuming, but we'll worth it. I jack the car up on all fours. Take your choice of degrease. Spray soaking parts of the under body that your going to be painting. Let soak for 10min. Take high pressure preferably HOT high pressure (cold will do) spraying real good removing as much dirt and oil as possible. Lay on your back to really make it easier and to get those tough to reach places. Let dry real good. Get multiple sizes of wire brushes along with microfiber towels. Brush everything that has surface rust along with anything and everything you see fit. Rinse off dust, let dry. Once dry take 9 cans of Rustoleum Undercoating $2.99 and spray away. I put 3 coats on mine. This stuff covers great. Watch for over spray. Good luck! Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk For a shiny undercoat look after the Rustoleum dries go back over with some gloss black paint. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 How well do you sand/brush the rust down? Do you get it down to shiny metal, or just to the point that there's no more loose material? I'm probably going to end up using POR-15 since it should counteract the rust, making the prep work a lot easier and the final product a lot better done. I do really like how your final result looks though, if mine didn't have so much rust already (ah, the north) I bet a rig could be made to look like new fairly easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 How well do you sand/brush the rust down? Do you get it down to shiny metal, or just to the point that there's no more loose material? I'm probably going to end up using POR-15 since it should counteract the rust, making the prep work a lot easier and the final product a lot better done. I do really like how your final result looks though, if mine didn't have so much rust already (ah, the north) I bet a rig could be made to look like new fairly easily.I sanded mainly the surface rust off. It's been a southern car it's entire life. As far as sanding it down to the metal that's up to you either way sanding it is better than not sanding it at all of course. Use your own judgment. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 I sanded mainly the surface rust off. It's been a southern car it's entire life. As far as sanding it down to the metal that's up to you either way sanding it is better than not sanding it at all of course. Use your own judgment. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Something else I do while I'm underneath the vehicle I will take some PB Blaster and spray nuts and bolts that I might have to take off in the future that way it'll be a little bit easier and maybe not break them Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 At it some more on this rainy Saturday in East TN. I'm very keen on attention to detail. Yesterday when it was a beautiful sunny 60 degrees I took my roof rails off along with the spoiler and restored them. Sanded, primed, painted and finished off with some varnish. On the bottom of the rails is a seal that runs the whole length of the rail. I took it off and cleaned it with degreaser and then took rubber dressing and conditioned both seals. They slide off and on. Some might think this is a waste of time but to me the little things make a big difference. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 For @!*%s and giggles I thought I'd look for the m62 6 pin plug for the compass and thermometer on my recent 96 fixer upper SE Pathy. My 98 Pathy didn't have it nor did it have vanity mirrors with lights. This 96 Pathy however does have vanity mirrors, lights too so I figured it has the m62 6 pin plug.I was right. It's behind and up above the glove box stuck to the inside of the body beside the bigger m63 connector which goes to the room lamps. I had an extra overhead console I picked up about a year ago in case the one in my Quey went bad. Sorry Quey. Ha ha!! I decided to do a quick hook up just to see. Oh yeah and I had the ambient temp sensor as well that goes on the front grill . I used this write up to help identify the wires along with the fsm http://forums.nicoclub.com/2004-pathfinder-overhead-console-upgrade-t543809.html Make sure and go here this is a great write up. Anyway I got it to come on. Now all I have to do is run the wires from the m62 6 pin plug to the console and that's it. I put vanity lights in my Pathy and running the wires were not all that bad. Note In my photos I've already pulled down m62 6 pin and connected my harness to it for testing purposes. When and if you do this mod. You will also have to ground the compass/thermometer unit. The unit has 8 pins using 7 of those to operate and the factory wiring connector m62 has on 6 pins. If you decide to do this mod when you look up in the area where the connector should be you will see two connectors if the m62 plug is there. If you don't see two just one you don't have the 6 pin m62 connector. In one of my pics you can see the m63 connector still stuck to body while the 6 pin m62 is pulled down. Go to the page mentioned above trust me. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 At it some more on this rainy Saturday in East TN. I'm very keen on attention to detail. Yesterday when it was a beautiful sunny 60 degrees I took my roof rails off along with the spoiler and restored them. Sanded, primed, painted and finished off with some varnish. On the bottom of the rails is a seal that runs the whole length of the rail. I took it off and cleaned it with degreaser and then took rubber dressing and conditioned both seals. They slide off and on. Some might think this is a waste of time but to me the little things make a big difference. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Looks a lot better than what it did. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 For @!*%s and giggles I thought I'd look for the m62 6 pin plug for the compass and thermometer on my recent 96 fixer upper SE Pathy. My 98 Pathy didn't have it nor did it have vanity mirrors with lights. This 96 Pathy however does have vanity mirrors, lights too so I figured it has the m62 6 pin plug.I was right. It's behind and up above the glove box stuck to the inside of the body beside the bigger m63 connector which goes to the room lamps. I had an extra overhead console I picked up about a year ago in case the one in my Quey went bad. Sorry Quey. Ha ha!! I decided to do a quick hook up just to see. Oh yeah and I had the ambient temp sensor as well that goes on the front grill . I used this write up to help identify the wires along with the fsm http://forums.nicoclub.com/2004-pathfinder-overhead-console-upgrade-t543809.html Make sure and go here this is a great write up. Anyway I got it to come on. Now all I have to do is run the wires from the m62 6 pin plug to the console and that's it. I put vanity lights in my Pathy and running the wires were not all that bad. Note In my photos I've already pulled down m62 6 pin and connected my harness to it for testing purposes. When and if you do this mod. You will also have to ground the compass/thermometer unit. The unit has 8 pins using 7 of those to operate and the factory wiring connector m62 has on 6 pins. If you decide to do this mod when you look up in the area where the connector should be you will see two connectors if the m62 plug is there. If you don't see two just one you don't have the 6 pin m62 connector. In one of my pics you can see the m63 connector still stuck to body while the 6 pin m62 is pulled down. Go to the page mentioned above trust me. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Although I had a 1ft of the factory harness that connects to the m62 connector and a piece of the harness that connects to the compass/thermometer unit. I had to make a trip to pull a part anyway to get a few things for this old gal. So while I was there I got the whole harness from the m62 to the unit so no splicing to deal with only had to run the wires and plug in a few connectors. I ran the wires up the pass side A pillar and zip tied it to the room lamps harness. Then across headliner next to sun visor. Piece of cake really. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Nice! I always liked the compass feature in my dad's R50s. I picked up one from a Chevy a while ago to try and fit to mine but couldn't get the wiring sorted out. One of these days I may have to give the R50 system a try. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Nice! I always liked the compass feature in my dad's R50s. I picked up one from a Chevy a while ago to try and fit to mine but couldn't get the wiring sorted out. One of these days I may have to give the R50 system a try.It's a cool feature to have. That said Ive wanted to put one in my 98 Pathy for the last 2 years. I already bought what I needed, but my 98 didn't have the m62 connector. There's another way to wire it up, but that calls for a lot of splicing and I didn't want to go that route. Who knew I was going to buy yet another R50. What can I say I love the R50's. #r50sobsessed Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 UPDATE - Started working on the trim along with the step rails and fine detail on anything and everything. I've been cleaning cars up for well over 20 years now and something I wanted to share is making the trim come back to life. Some people paint it, use oil or even silicone, but all those don't last. I've used every product known to man on getting the trim back to new and nothing works on keeping it looking new like Turtle Wax Endura Shine Trim Coating. To me this stuff is the best on the market hands down. Nothing compares to this stuff. It's an acrylic coating. The more coats the darker it gets. On my 98 I use it once a year and still my plastics are top notch. As you can see in the pics what I'm taking about. I did however sand and paint the metal on my bumpers everything else I used the trim coating. The only place I can find this stuff at is either online or Pep Boys. It runs around $15 a bottle comes with gloves and a sponge trust me you will want to use gloves while applying. If you accidentally get it on your paint wipe it off immediately with a damp cloth. It's that easy guys. I stand by this stuff and like I said there's nothing on the market like it hands down the best. I'm in the process now of refurbishing my mud flaps I will post pictures once I'm done so you can see all the trim completed with this stuff. The 96 fixer upper continues........ Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Damn, that's looking good! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Nice work! I am however, thoroughly disgusted by the lack of rust, on a frickin 96!! My 96 looked nothing like that and my 01 is starting to show quite a bit... So jealous 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Nice work! I am however, thoroughly disgusted by the lack of rust, on a frickin 96!! My 96 looked nothing like that and my 01 is starting to show quite a bit... So jealousI've bought 3 R50s in the past 2 years and fortunately all southern cars with little to no rust. Surface rust on places, but taken care of very easily. I was searching Craigslist last night and came across an 01 for $500 that just needs a CV axle on the driver side but it is ate up with rust. Hard to find them where there not rusted out especially front inner frame deemed to the junk yard. I'm very keen on the undercoating. The 96 fixer upper I got I found on Craigslist check engine light was on when I went and looked at it I took my scanner and it came up ignition I think it was P0130. I might be wrong. Anyway I knew it just needed a distributor. I had 3 extra distributors. Installed one changed plugs and that fixed it. I have a Pull A Part within 20 miles of my house and I have racked up on extra parts screws pins whatever I need I've got easy access to I just installed new seats in my 98 pathy. If you guys need a part I don't care one bit to go to pull a part to see if I can get it. A lot of people just don't have access to pull a part or junk yards and it's hard for them to find parts so I don't care to help anyone out. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Damn, that's looking good! I appreciate it. A lot of elbow grease, but we'll worth it. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 3 clean, rust free R50's AND you have a self serve yard 20 miles away?! You're killing me!! Lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now