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Stutters/misfires while at idle and when accelerating.


Simon_Landrum
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My 95 XE 4x4 has been misfiring for some time now. Stuttering and shuttering during acceleration and has a pretty consistent misfire at idle.

 

It has codes for EGR function and Knock Sensor.

 

I've replaced the plugs/wires, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, and fuel filter.

 

The shaft on the distributor has some play in it so I'm wondering if this could be contributing to the issue?

 

I've disconnected the O2 sensor to see if that would help and it made no change to the issue.

 

The mass air sensor has been cleaned but is the original part in the vehicle.

 

The tac bounces up and down from 500 to 1000 rpm depending on the load on the motor.

 

I just ordered a new mass air flow sensor in hopes that will fix the problem.

 

Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what I can try to alleviate the issue?

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Simon_Landrum
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What I did while diagnosing that Ford was to just unbolt the EGR valve, stick a piece of cardboard in between it and the manifold, and bolt it up again. This effectively blocks it off. If the engine runs better, you know your EGR system has a fault. You can put a piece of vac line onto the valve, suck on that, and see if it makes the valve move; if the valve moves, check the EGR solenoid (follow the vac line from the valve). If it doesn't run better, the EGR isn't the problem--pull the piece of cardboard back out and move onto the next suspect.

 

Also worth noting, the MAF sensor wiring on these apparently tends to lose its ground. It's not a problem I've dealt with but it's apparently common enough that Nissan made some kind of repair harness for it that gives you another ground point on the MAF wiring. Might be something to look into if the EGR doesn't change anything and the new MAF doesn't help, either.

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I had a bad connector on top of my MAF that would make it run like crap when the hood was closed but ran fine with it open. Apparently the harness on top was making just enough contact with the underside of the hood to flex some wire and break connection. I rebuilt the connector and it ran fine for years after that. Quick check is to wiggle/flex the wiring on the MAF while it's running and see if it makes a difference

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