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Blown/Seeping Head Gasket?


onespiritbrain
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The water pump only has 15k miles on it. I would’ve loved to put a new oil pump on though..

I dropped the engine in last night per the FSMs procedure and failed miserably. Those exhaust manifolds make it a HUGE pain to maneuver the engine into place. It might be because I have the precats attached too. I remember having the precats on when I dropped this engine in the first time though..

I don’t know what the heck happened, I’ll have to get my bearings straight tonight. I will grab some straps from work also. There’s not much to attach to on the back side of the motor.


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F my life I left the bolts in the torque converter. This will be the 3rd time pulling the motor back out.

I woke up the morning out of sleep knowing I had left them in.. I must have had a dream about it.

*laughs hysterically with a psychotic twinkle in the eyes*


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Wow.... so I was about to install the harmonic balancer and I went to unscrew the crank bolt and it was very difficult to break free, but..... I was able to put a massive amount of torque to get it off....... WITHOUT THE ENGINE TURNING OVER!?!?!?!???!!!!!?!?!??!?

 

I jump back, the hair stands up all over my body, my hands and mouth begin to tremble, and I pace around in an absolute panic begging God to help me.

 

After digging I found that the starter was making contact with the flex plate. I videoed the flex plate when I spun it and there is no warping at all. I guess it pushed whatever had the ability to be pushed just enough to rub on the starter.

 

What I did to rectify the situation was I took two old head bolt washers and used them to shim the starter out. Turns over like butter again!

 

I do hope there isn’t some sort of damage somewhere either inside the bottom of the engine or with the oil pump on the transmission..

 

I swear I didn’t wrench on those bellhousing bolts while the torque converter bolts were still in there.. I could tell there was some sort of resistance but it definitely didn’t feel like something was bad wrong..

 

Blaaaaaahhhhh!

 

 

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The service manual says that's a theft warning horn. I assume that means it's what makes noise when the car alarm goes off. The WD21 alarms had plastic sirens in a similar position but on the driver's side.

Hopefully the flexplate didn't move enough to cause problems apart from being too close to the starter. At least you found the problem before you tried to start it!

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She lives!!!!
a57b3752838d743cabdd726f2d72d4d7.jpg

I had to shim the starter out some more... it was constantly spinning the starter and grinding a spot on it... it was very hot.

I’ve also got coolant leaking from somewhere on the driver side. I can’t find it at the moment..


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Oh no... I have a crankshaft position sensor fault.....

P0335

So I’m thinking it’s either metal shavings from the starter scraping the flex plate..

Or this is because the flex plate got pushed out of position...

This is horrible. Truly.


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This is what’s happening:

 

It stumbles and skips and sputters and barely goes until 3k rpm then it opens up and acts completely normal.

 

While it’s acting up if I press the gas all the way down it stops and accelerates normally with no sputtering.

 

It starts and stops. About 30 seconds acting up and 30 seconds acting normal.

 

What am I dealing with here?

 

 

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I reached up there and pulled the sensor out and it did have metal shavings on it but I replaced it with a spare and it is still messed up and throwing the P0335 code.

That’s what you get when you’re a dumbass, you get to do it all over again.

I guess I’m going to try to pull the flex plate back into its original position? What the hell even moves in there??? Isn’t the flex plate bolted to the crankshaft????? Did the damn crankshaft move?? What in the hell is going on????

I can’t put together words to describe how much this sucks. My neighbors are trying to sell their house and my @!*%s in 1000 pieces in the garage looking like the rednecks from hell.


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That sucks!

Don't beat on the crank bolt. The crank can't move fore and aft enough to matter, not unless something's gone horribly wrong with the crank bearings. If the flexplate is scraping the starter, the flexplate is bent. The three bolts you left in the torque converter may have bent the flexplate equally so it doesn't wobble but I'm guessing it's dish-shaped now compared to what it should be, if that makes sense. Hopefully the torque converter didn't take any damage. It doesn't look obviously damaged in the picture. You've still got a good flexplate on the scrap motor, right? I'm sure you're as excited to pull the engine again as I am to bleed my brakes again but I don't think you're gonna fix this without taking it apart and swapping that out. Even if you could shim the sensor and the starter I'd be concerned about the torque converter sitting forward from where it's supposed to be and possibly causing issues like this.

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1 hour ago, Slartibartfast said:

That sucks!

Don't beat on the crank bolt. The crank can't move fore and aft enough to matter, not unless something's gone horribly wrong with the crank bearings. If the flexplate is scraping the starter, the flexplate is bent. The three bolts you left in the torque converter may have bent the flexplate equally so it doesn't wobble but I'm guessing it's dish-shaped now compared to what it should be, if that makes sense. Hopefully the torque converter didn't take any damage. It doesn't look obviously damaged in the picture. You've still got a good flexplate on the scrap motor, right? I'm sure you're as excited to pull the engine again as I am to bleed my brakes again but I don't think you're gonna fix this without taking it apart and swapping that out. Even if you could shim the sensor and the starter I'd be concerned about the torque converter sitting forward from where it's supposed to be and possibly causing issues like this.

 

My thoughts exactly! If you did dish the flex plate, it may not be enough in front of the sensor to pick up correctly. If you can't see in the sensor hole directly use your endoscope to look in there and see how it lines up. I would pull the transmission to change that instead of pulling the motor again.

James

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Thank y’all very much!

I have an update. So I didn’t have the plug seated all the way on the sensor. I reached up there and plugged it in but no dice. The issue persists, this time without the P0335 code.

I got a better idea about what’s going on and got a new code also, P0300. It’s misfiring for a 20 second period then it clears up to be completely normal for 20 seconds and so on, back and forth.

It’s not drivable like this because the power loss during the bad 20 seconds is fairly severe.

I am wondering if I crossed up those vacuum lines and little solenoid that go to the fuel pressure regulator and when the solenoid opens or whatever it cuts fuel and drastically reduces it?

You help is VERY appreciated.


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I just watched a video stating that the crank shaft position sensor doesn’t have any effect on ignition and that it’s only function is to report RPM to the ECU. That’s good to know!

My plan is to figure out what the heck is going on with the misfiring as well as pay super close attention the the transmission shifting points and OD operation.

I looked for the other flex plate but I am 95% sure I tossed it because it was bent from the junkyard.

I really need this vehicle to straighten up and fly right because I’m going to be facing some harsh criticism at home if I have to spend another dime on it for at least a year lol


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