TheDoodie Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hello all. So I bought an awesome 4 lift from JP and the more I try to decide on which way to go the more Im finding out that a Toyota 3 link setup can be modified to work on my Q. Im not trying to build a rig to run 40s but 35s maybe 37s would be nice. Any opinions on this? Im just looking for input and advice. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 How much do you want to spend? A solid axle swap will be more expensive. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDoodie Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Its not so much about the money. Its the end result. My Q was up north. Some of the subframe is pretty rusty. The body is in great shape though. I want to build an over lander that will go anywhere. My 4Runner was ISF and it went like stink. I was going to Swap it but I sold it before that could happen. I dont have much experience with the pathys. How does the 6 perform off road? I know Ill have no suspension droop on the front. Ive heard about top out. If I go through the links of lifting the IFS and its crap Ill end up spending more to ultimately swapping it. But if the 6 works then all I need are wheels and tires and its on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 How hard are you going to wheel it? Either way, you'll want to take care of the rust; it's only going to get worse, and if you plan to use it hard you'll eventually have catastrophic failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 The SAS is going to be what you make of it. Modifying that 3-link setup is synonymous with custom SAS. You may do all that work and it rides and tracks poorly. Same probably can't be said about an SFD...there's no guesswork; it's basically a body lift for half of the vehicle and the geometries and characteristics remain unchanged. Your real question is, "how is the Pathfinder IFS?", and the answer is, "as good as you might expect from an IFS system." I think your real consideration should be based on how you intend to use the vehicle, off-roading wise. Forget the "overlanding" blanket term for a moment; an SAS doesn't help you boil water at the end of the day. At 35" tires, you're at the limit with the R50. Not saying you can't go bigger—and I know others have—but at that point, you've maxed or exceeded useful range on wheel travel, gearing, and steering and suspension component stress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDoodie Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Thats a good point with the 3 link over the ISF. At the end of the day I want a rig that I can drive to California or wheel on the weekends. I get fairly aggressive when off tossing but I dont thrash my rigs. More like slow and 4 low kinda riding. I do want to run at least 35s. Im sure Ill have to rear gear. I didnt get the luck of the draw with the 4:88s. Also Im sure Ill have to change out my transfer case. Ultimately, my Runner was one of the baddest boys around and I want this Q to set a standard. If the IFS is going to give me better drive ability then thats what I want. I plan to lock front and rear. I heard they have issues with CV axle angle. Which my runner did as well I always carried a spare. But to have to install manual hubs makes me believe I might go through more axles than I care to. And a solid wont have that issue as well as much better articulation. Haha. Im just undivided I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bax03SE Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Ultimately its up to you for what you want. But, from the type of wheeling you describe I wouldnt say SAS is at all necessary. There are plenty of people on here who do some pretty serious wheeling with their R50 with the IFS. The R50 isnt a very large vehicle, so dont get too hung up on tire size just for the sake of it. While some rigs like Jeeps commonly run 35, 37, 40....etc.. I really feel that is complete overkill for the R50 platform. Personally I think 33 is the upper limit for what is needed. 33s look pretty big on the R50 and are still very functional. And at least if you have a newer VQ powered rig it still turns the 33s just fine with no need for regearing. Just food for thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Specifically about gearing, you're already limited. Yours has 4.363 stock, and your only option is 4.636. Nissan has OE 4.90s from Xterras that will work, but the front gears don't fit an R50. With a Dana, the 4.88 will pair fine with those, and there are aftermarket 5.13/5.14 options. For what it's worth, I run a 3" SFD, worn OMEs, front and rear lockers, 4.636, and 32". My only gripe is ground clearance; my front skid has paid the price. But, I've had zero issues with the IFS on red trails; approach and departure angles might be my most limiting factors. Nothing about my current setup has given me any grief whatsoever, but a SAS has been on my mind to improve the aforementioned issues, and provide a proper front drivetrain needs to run 35". But, IFS is going to beat out SA in ride quality any day. All CVs on all IFS (and IRS, for that matter) are prone to failure when outside of their normal operating angle, which all lifts (except SFD) contribute to. Manual hubs don't contribute to CV failure at all; they're just a tool to reduce drivetrain load. The QX4 transfer case is probably ok (lower gears than the part-time unit), but just has electrical components that can fail. The rest of the drivetrain is stouter than any Toyota offering (not counting older front straight axles). We should probably try to dispel a few notions about your truck; it can be a quite capable truck even in stock form. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Stock QX4 can go places it shouldn’t, that’s for sure. The only lack I see is a cheap solution to lock the rear diff. Otherwise its one of the best unibody 4x4s ever. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited January 15, 2018 by onespiritbrain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDoodie Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Ive heard the same about driveline strength from my fabricator buddies. Of course these are the same fellas that are pushing me to go solid axle. Will 35s work with 4:63s I was going to run 5:14 Im my yota with the 35s. So from what Ive gathered so far. Ill probabky want to go solid axle at some point but run the 6 in the mean time and have a ton of fun?!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Coming from 4.363 gears, 5.14 and 35" are 1% off stock ratios, while 4.636 and 35" are 10% off. These are actual calculations, not guesses, btw. The percentage is what you'd expect in driveline losses, all other things being equal, but also the how far off your speedo will be. I don't doubt the 3.5L can turn them, but it'll add stresses across the board. (I'm an advocate of gear changes). If you really think you'll do an SAS any time soon, I wouldn't bother with the SFD. See what the truck can get you into and out of without it, and plan the SAS. Keep in mind you're coming from a unibody truck without a steering gearbox, and the lack of front ABS (assuming Wagoneer D44) may also warrant using the part-time transfer case, plus wiring harness, plus new interior panels. Of course, since you have the SFD kit on hand, installation can be done within a day, but it's also fund money for the SAS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDoodie Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 Fellas from the info youve given. Im happy to say i think Ill stick with the IFS. You all have been more than helpful and Im grateful for the input. And my bank account is as well. Ill build the IFS and if at some point decide to make the Q a full time trail rig then Ill go SAS. So my next questions are wheels and tires. Can I run 35s on a 4 or do I need to install the spacers on the front. I was going to run Rustys 6.5 WJ rear coils on the rear with Billys. I wish I could run Billys up front but it looks like thats not an option. What are in yalls opinion my optimom struts and backspacing options. I was wanting to stick with 17 but could go 18 because the tires are cheaper in some cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDoodie Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 As for the rear locker, I was going to run the lock-right. That's what I had in my Runner... It worked great except for the clicking when it's not engaged lol. What are the other fellas running and does anyone have any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Only rear locker option is ARB and maybe TJM if they still make it, unless you change a lot of stuff on the axle (all bolt on/junkyard stuff). Hawairish has a write up on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDoodie Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Huh. Im going to have to check into that. Rear lockers are a must! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Worth every penny. I'd lock the front diff first, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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