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R50 Running Really Rough


D_Bomb17
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Hi all,

 

I am hoping I could get some suggestions on what is making my Pathy run rough. I just recently bought it off a guy who replaced the following himself (he says before it began to run this bad):

Spark plugs

Spark wires
Distributer
Fuel Pump

 

Timing belt done 60,000kms ago in a shop.

 

When i bought it, it didn't start due to a dead battery. Once I brought it home, I swapped the battery from my current Pathy to hopefully get it to start. It did, but ran rough, misfired a lot, bogged down and ended up stalling. Exhaust fumes smelled rich. I tried this a few times before I gave up, hoping I didn't do any damage.

 

The CEL was not on, but I checked to see if there were any codes, and it came up with P0300 and P0325. Kind of expected, I guess.

 

Any one have a clue as to what might be wrong?

 

Thanks!

D.N.

Edited by D_Bomb17
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Hi all,

 

I am hoping I could get some suggestions on what is making my Pathy run rough. I just recently bought it off a guy who replaced the following himself (he says before it began to run this bad):

 

Spark plugs

Spark wires

Distributer

Fuel Pump

 

Timing belt done 60,000kms ago in a shop.

 

When i bought it, it didn't start due to a dead battery. Once I brought it home, I swapped the battery from my current Pathy to hopefully get it to start. It did, but ran rough, misfired a lot, bogged down and ended up stalling. Exhaust fumes smelled rich. I tried this a few times before I gave up, hoping I didn't do any damage.

 

The CEL was not on, but I checked to see if there were any codes, and it came up with P0300 and P0325. Kind of expected, I guess.

 

Any one have a clue as to what might be wrong?

 

Thanks!

D.N.

Air filter?(doubtful)

 

 

 

Injectors? Fuel pressure regulator?

 

Do you have access to a scan tool?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Air filter?(doubtful)

 

 

 

Injectors? Fuel pressure regulator?

 

Do you have access to a scan tool?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes, I used a scanner and got P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) and P0325 (knock sensor) codes.

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Yes, I used a scanner and got P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) and P0325 (knock sensor) codes.

I got that you used a code reader. Did you use a scan tool to look at the freeze frame data so you can look at different sensor readings?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I got that you used a code reader. Did you use a scan tool to look at the freeze frame data so you can look at different sensor readings?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ah that kind of scan tool. No, I don't have access to one of those.

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Rich exhaust could be a failed oxygen sensor, though it's normal for an engine to run rich when it's warming up. You may be able to back-probe the connector for the O2 sensor(s) with a meter to see if it's working but you could also try just unplugging them to see if it runs any better without their input.

 

Do you have a timing light? Could help to see if the last guy timed the new distributor properly (though you're supposed to set timing warm, which is problematic when it's not running properly.) If the timing jumps all over the place, that could indicate a problem with the replacement dizzy.

 

Fuel pressure's not a bad idea to check either, if you have access to the tools, though I'd expect a fuel pressure issue to crop up at high revs rather than idle. Unless there's fuel coming out of the pressure regulator into the vac line (pull the vac line off and see if gas comes out), I'd assume it's probably fine. Check the other vac lines and rubber parts of the intake for obvious leaks while you're at it.

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Double check the timing. If the distributor is good, and is installed on the right tooth, it will at least run somewhat smooth in any position you can turn it. If they used a junkyard one or a cheap aftermarket, suspect that. You can unplug the MAF and try it to see if it runs fine at idle in the default fuel map. Same with the o2 sensors.

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Thanks all! I think I found the problem! I took the dizzy cap off, and the rotor was firing at cylinder 1 and the engine is not at TDC. A friend coming over tonight with a timing light so we can double check, so I will update then.

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Update:

 

We set the engine at TDC, took the dizzy cap off and the rotor was pointed at cylinder 3. Pulled the dizzy out, rotated it so it was at cylinder 1 and put it back in. Engine was now turning over fine but wouldnt catch. Pulled a couple spark plugs to check for spark, nothing. Spark plugs looked burnt out so we replaced them, and we had spark again! But it still wouldnt catch.

 

Next, we pulled the cap off and checked the rotor again. Somehow it was pointing at cylinder 3 again, so the decision was made to pull the dizzy once again. Good thing we did, because it was seized and the balls from the bearing were rattling around inside!

 

I rechecked my text messages with the previous owner, and I must have overlooked it when he said he only replaced the cap and not the entire distributor. So off to the auto parts store for a new dizzy! I will update again once Ive replaced it!

 

Cheers!

D.N.

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Jesus! There's your problem. Having it slip like that is a bit worrying. Have a good look at the drive gear on the old one to make sure it's not chewed up. You might even want to check the valve timing to be sure the seizing bearing didn't make the belt skip teeth. Hopefully the drive gear was just slipping on the dizzy shaft or something like that and nothing else is damaged.

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Update:

 

SHE'S ALL FIXED UP!!

 

Replaced the distributor, and now she's purring like she should :)

 

All she needs now is a battery that holds power and I have a 'brand new' Pathfinder that i purchased for $600!!!

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