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Very discouraged


tthomasd614
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Okay, so I purchased my 96 pathy a month ago knowing it was leaking coolant. I replaced the thermostat, housing, and gasket for the first try. It was still leaking from the timing cover right at the crankshaft. So I did the whole water pump timing belt replacement and it is still leaking coolant. It leaks a drop once every ten seconds or so from the same spot...I don’t know what to do. Did the gasket not get on right, did I not tighten it enough? I’m all out of ideas and any help would be very much appreciated.

 

 

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Yes, I scraped it off with a razor blade. A friend said that I needed to use silicone as well as the regular gasket. I’m just trying to figure out if it could be leaking anywhere else. 5523pathfinder mentioned a coolant bypass hose but I don’t even know what that is

 

 

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There is a hose that is directly above the water pump that feeds into the actual thermostat housing. Its part of the lower radiator hose assembly i guess you'd call it. There is the hose that come out from the block via the thermostat, then a solid piece of zinc plated tubing and then the long hose that runs from there to the bottom of the radiator. I would start there looking around there if you haven't already done so.

 

Beyond that there is a small hose that if memory serves me right, feeds off the top of the thermostat housing and goes into the lower intake manifold as part of the heated manifold assembly. Its buried deep in the engine and is behind a lot A/C lines, timing belts and covers. While i have never personally heard of it failing, it is rubber and susceptible to dry rot like anything else rubber.

 

Hope that helps.

 

-Kyle

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If you look down directly beside the distributor, you can see the hose. It is possible to change it without removing everything again. Just remove the bracket the ac belt and pulley are on. You can then access both clamps. It's tight but doable.

 

Honestly it is hard to fskc up the waterpump install on these, so you probably did it right, and it is just the bypass hose.

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If you look down directly beside the distributor, you can see the hose. It is possible to change it without removing everything again. Just remove the bracket the ac belt and pulley are on. You can then access both clamps. It's tight but doable.

 

Honestly it is hard to fskc up the waterpump install on these, so you probably did it right, and it is just the bypass hose.

thanks for the help guys! I am going to try it this way. Hopefully this is the cause. I don’t mind getting all deep into it again but I really prefer not too

 

 

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If you look down directly beside the distributor, you can see the hose. It is possible to change it without removing everything again. Just remove the bracket the ac belt and pulley are on. You can then access both clamps. It's tight but doable.

 

Honestly it is hard to fskc up the waterpump install on these, so you probably did it right, and it is just the bypass hose.

is the hose that connects to the metal elbow where the top radiator hose connects to?

 

 

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perfect, thank you! I’ll let ya know how it goes

 

 

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Put some silicone spray or something on the hose so it slides on easier. I also put mine in boiling water to make it more pliable. Make sure the aluminum ends on the pipes are clean so no chance of leaks with the new hose.

Edited by adamzan
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Put some silicone spray or something on the hose so it slides on easier. I also put mine in boiling water to make it more pliable. Make sure the aluminum ends on the pipes are clean so no chance of leaks with the new hose.

Thanks for the tip! Anything I can do to make things easier is much appreciated. So I tried to do it from the top but had no way of getting to the hose Clamps, they were both turned inward. So I just disassembled all parts all way to the timing belt. Do you know how I can keep the cams from moving so I can take them off so I can remove the rear timing cover to access the hose just like in the picture you posted?

 

 

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I cut and welded some scrap rod into an F shape. Long part was the handle, short parts fit into the sprocket and hold it still. Worked great, let me pull the sprockets off to do the camshaft seals, and held the sprockets while reinstalled and torqued the bolts. Also helped for positioning the sprockets when I put the belt back on. If you don't have a welder, a good piece of strap steel with a couple holes and long-ish bolts through them should do the same job.

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Thanks for all the tips and the help guys! So, I tackled it today and found that there was indeed

a crack in the bypass hose! I’m now relieved knowing the crack was there and that it is what was causing the leak. Now I can put it all back together and be happy that it will (hopefully) not leak anymore! 5161ceffaf5e4f3e57a2f202f793ceec.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

This happened to me too... Replaced timing belt/water pump/etc. Was fine for about a week until someone in the Mcd's drive through says my truck is pissing coolant. Got to change that in the driveway in January in Canada. Fun.

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This happened to me too... Replaced timing belt/water pump/etc. Was fine for about a week until someone in the Mcd's drive through says my truck is pissing coolant. Got to change that in the driveway in January in Canada. Fun.

Aww man that would’ve been awful. I’ve had to help my dad with car stuff when I was young in the middle of winter in Minnesota. It sucked

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good Jerb, love seeing a small cut in a hose rather than it being deeper. It is recommended to change the bypass hose, water pump, thermostat, and so on, all at the same time. THAT IS WHY RIGHT THERE!!!

Again, great jerb finding it and fixing it. thumbs up

 

pat

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