Jump to content

97 Pathy R50 Dead rear axle. Advise!


Mattmill91
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Looks like you made some progress. As you've probably discovered, the ABS tone ring is pressed on. A new double-taper race does come with a new bearing. For that outer bearing cone, you'll either need to put a bearing separator on it (it will damage the grease seal...cheap replacement), or dremel as much/deep of a notch as you can and hammer a chisel into it to crack it open.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like you made some progress. As you've probably discovered, the ABS tone ring is pressed on. A new double-taper race does come with a new bearing. For that outer bearing cone, you'll either need to put a bearing separator on it (it will damage the grease seal...cheap replacement), or dremel as much/deep of a notch as you can and hammer a chisel into it to crack it open.

 

Thanks for the help.. ok I have collected my new parts an have everything disassembled and cleaned..

 

Maybe help me with how to press these together..

 

Like what an where are you pushing on the bearing to install the new outter race.. and pushing the whole bearings on to the shaft at once?

Any pics of videos you know ofnwould he great. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did it according to the 2004 FSM, which appears same as 97 (http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/ra.pdf, see RA-8). It's done in smaller parts instead of all-at-once:

 

1. Press the race into the bearing cup. I used the old bearing race to get it all the way in (it's got just enough clearance to not get pressed into the cup). Make sure it seats fully on the grease seal side.

 

2. Press the grease seal into the bearing cup.

 

3. Grease up outer bearing (hub side) and slip into the cone through the grease seal. Put the axle shaft through the outer bearing, bearing cup, and greased inner bearing (diff side). Press all those together. You'll need a suitable spacer on the cone of the inner bearing...you can use the old bearing cone if you used the chisel method to crack it, or if you Dremel/file out the inner diameter a little so that it doesn't get pressed on with everything.

 

Then just need to press on the ABS tone ring once the bearing washer, lock washer, and nut are on. Good time to change the oil seal (43252-0W000) and o-ring (43085-42G00) on the axle tube ends, and new diff gasket (38320-T3322) if you don't have them already.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did it according to the 2004 FSM, which appears same as 97 (http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/ra.pdf, see RA-8). It's done in smaller parts instead of all-at-once:

 

1. Press the race into the bearing cup. I used the old bearing race to get it all the way in (it's got just enough clearance to not get pressed into the cup). Make sure it seats fully on the grease seal side.

 

2. Press the grease seal into the bearing cup.

 

3. Grease up outer bearing (hub side) and slip into the cone through the grease seal. Put the axle shaft through the outer bearing, bearing cup, and greased inner bearing (diff side). Press all those together. You'll need a suitable spacer on the cone of the inner bearing...you can use the old bearing cone if you used the chisel method to crack it, or if you Dremel/file out the inner diameter a little so that it doesn't get pressed on with everything.

 

Then just need to press on the ABS tone ring once the bearing washer, lock washer, and nut are on. Good time to change the oil seal (43252-0W000) and o-ring (43085-42G00) on the axle tube ends, and new diff gasket (38320-T3322) if you don't have them already.

 

 

 

Thanks so much!

 

 

 

Alll new wheel bearings.. links shocks..

 

 

There still a wheel speed related grinding high pitch sound coming from it... I know the sound. It’s a bearing some where.. any thought would be great ! I am thinking drive line or trans output maybe.. hopefully somthing out side of a component

Edited by Mattmill91
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm loving the lack of rust.

 

CA Central Valley truck it’s whole life. ..

 

 

Plus the new axel I refinished.. it came from Alabama and had some surface an interior rust from sitting out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the sound is like a high pitch “white noise”. So close to white noise I can’t telll if it’s the radio or truck. Radio appears to be dead at the moment too. Power. No sound from speakers..

 

 

I can not hear the sound out side the vehicle while driving (windows down)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sound is very harmonic around 40 mph the a solid loud whine at 70

 

 

Sounds almost like a disc brake pad sqeal but they are pretty new and doesn’t seem braking related.

Edited by Mattmill91
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the brass-looking cap on the snout of the differential, behind the pinion flange. It can get misaligned and rub on the snout cast a little as it rotates, though probably not enough to make considerable noise.

 

Another thing on the driveline are the pinion bearings, though hopefully thats fine considering youve buttoned everything back up.

 

Perhaps u-joints need greasing or replacement?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...