tthomasd614 Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Okay everyone, need a little guidance here. I am doing a water pump replacement and checked the timing belt which is awesome and doesn’t need replaced. Anyway, I marked the belt as well as the pulleys(not sure what the actual name is) where the Teeth need to be matched up for when I put the belt back on. However, I forgot to make sure it was top dead center and when I loosened the tension the pulleys(again not sure if they are called that) moved and now I don’t know how to make sure the lines I made on the belt and the pulleys match. The first picture is the left and second picture the right. You can see where I marked both in white. Can anyone help me from here? I’m at a loss. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 If you lined everything back up the way you took it off then you should be fine. How far did the sprockets turn when you relieved tension? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 If you lined everything back up the way you took it off then you should be fine. How far did the sprockets turn when you relieved tension? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk thats what I’m hoping for, but since th sprockets moved I don’t know what to do to move them back so I can align the right way. They moved about 2 inches each side Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilca Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 You are going to have to move the crank such that the pistons are not at top dead center. Then rotate the cams to the timing position, then bring the crank to TDC. DO NOT FORCE anything and you should be OK. BTW replace the timing belt anytime you are in this deep. My $0.02 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 You are going to have to move the crank such that the pistons are not at top dead center. Then rotate the cams to the timing position, then bring the crank to TDC. DO NOT FORCE anything and you should be OK. BTW replace the timing belt anytime you are in this deep. My $0.02Okay, how do I do that? Thanks for the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 (edited) Did the crank sprocket move? However each piece moved, just move it back to where it was. Then put the belt back on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited September 17, 2017 by onespiritbrain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilca Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Okay, how do I do that? Thanks for the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning. Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Ohhhhhh I see now.. it never was at TDC. I thought the white paint was obstructing my view of the timing marks but I see now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning. Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center. Okay I will post a picture when I get home. Thanks for willing to help! A friend whom has done mechanic work said that I basically need to start from scratch and rotate the crank to top dead center, he said there are marks that show me when it’s there and then rotate 45 degrees in earthed direction. After that rotate the cams so that that the little marks are lined up. After than moved crank back to top dead center and then install the belt. It seems way to simple for me. Lol maybe I just tend to make things more difficult than they need to be. Does this procedure sound right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 (edited) The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning. Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center. As you can see it is pretty much at TDC, what do I use to rotate th cams and crank? Do I use a wratchet attached the bolt on th front? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited September 17, 2017 by tthomasd614 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilca Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 I use the crank bolt and socket. I put together a graphic but cannot post it since I used to use Photobucket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Yeah, you can just move the crank and cams with a socket. When I did my TB, I replaced the cam seals, and ended up making an F-shaped tool to hold the cam sprockets in place while I loosened and re-torqued the bolts. This tool turned out to be great for lining up the marks as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Yeah, you can just move the crank and cams with a socket. When I did my TB, I replaced the cam seals, and ended up making an F-shaped tool to hold the cam sprockets in place while I loosened and re-torqued the bolts. This tool turned out to be great for lining up the marks as well.Great! Thanks guys! Since I’m so neurotic and just want to be sure? I can use the socket on the nut turning it CW to match up the botches? I have circled the nut im referring to in yellow in the picture. Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure everything is gold when I put it all together! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunchie Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Clarity is a most wonderful thing. Nothing wrong w/being a little paranoid when it comes to working w/what you are right now. Grenading your engine is NOT in your best interest-lol. General Q, anyone: a closer look at the last pic supplied, shows a small dimple on one tooth, just below the stamped "R 3" on the sprocket. What's that for??? Have a feeling that it may have to do timing possibly....thoughts? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunchie Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Yeah, further eyeballing shows a single dimple on ALL 3 sprockets-it HAS to be something related to timing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunchie Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Yeah, further eyeballing shows a single dimple on ALL 3 sprockets-it HAS to be something related to timing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 The single dimples have matching spots on the timing cover that are almost close enough to time by--but you still want to count teeth rather than trusting that. And yes, you can use that nut. I recommend using a breaker bar, solid wrench, or similar, instead of a ratchet, so you're in full control of the cam and it can't jump forward on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 (edited) Okay thanks for understanding! Yes, I actually decided to find a service manual and indeed the dimples are timing. Whew. I am however having a hard time finding the one to match on the crankshaft. I will supply a picture and maybe someone could see what I can’t. Thanks for your help everyone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited September 18, 2017 by tthomasd614 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 The single dimples have matching spots on the timing cover that are almost close enough to time by--but you still want to count teeth rather than trusting that. And yes, you can use that nut. I recommend using a breaker bar, solid wrench, or similar, instead of a ratchet, so you're in full control of the cam and it can't jump forward on you. also how many teeth should I count to make sure its right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Not to nitpick, but you have an obvious oil leak which you should fix before buttoning this back up. There is oil on the timing belt, which will drastically reduce it's life. The belt is like 30 bucks and the cam/crank seals are even cheaper. It should be 40 teeth between camshaft marks, and 43 betweek drivers side camshaft, and the crank marks. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthomasd614 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Not to nitpick, but you have an obvious oil leak which you should fix before buttoning this back up. There is oil on the timing belt, which will drastically reduce it's life. The belt is like 30 bucks and the cam/crank seals are even cheaper. It should be 40 teeth between camshaft marks, and 43 betweek drivers side camshaft, and the crank marks. Haha yes I am going to fix the oil leak too. Just wanted to get everything all planned and ready before I start putting it all back together. Thanks for looking out and for the info! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 No problem. It would just suck to have the belt fail shortly after all that work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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