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timing belt tensioner spring ?


snucks
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I replaced the timing belt on my Pathfinder yesterday but I am unable to get the end of the spring to stay on the stud. If I add any amount of tension (by rotating the tensioner) it slips right off. It almost looks like its missing about 1/4" off of the end of it. My teenage neighbor kid was helping me remove everything so there is a chance he damaged it on the way out

 

Is the spring absolutely vital in some way I am not understanding? Because it does not look to me that it does anything at all. With the locknut tightened down the adjuster doesn't move so its not like the spring provides a strong counter force.

 

 

 

Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

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If you are changing the timing belt, it is best to change the tensioner too. It would be lame if the tensioner failed a few thousand miles later.

 

I remember it being a bit of a trick keeping the spring on the bolt, but I can't remember any details.

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If you are changing the timing belt, it is best to change the tensioner too. It would be lame if the tensioner failed a few thousand miles later.

 

I remember it being a bit of a trick keeping the spring on the bolt, but I can't remember any details.

thanks for the reply

 

 

I only drive my truck 500-1k miles a year to be honest. I was digging around in there because the water pump started leaking through the weep hole and had a new water pump and timing belt sitting in the back since 2007 lol

 

I might just order a new one anyway because the local parts stores want 25 bucks a piece for the belts but Rockauto has them for around $10 combined....

 

fwiw the old belt was immaculate though a bit on the loose side

Edited by snucks
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I recommend changing tensioner regardless just because I've heard talk on how an old tensioner can degrade the life of your new timing belt by 50 percent. Take that how you will but it's a cheap part so I just changed mine, plus I broke the stud while tightening it to spec anyways so had to wait around regardless.

 

As for the tensioner spring you do not spun it full circle. The hole for the stud is offset so when you move the wheel you'll see it goes in towards the timing belt, likewise as you move the wheel you'll feel the tension build. I think the reason you need it is either to make sure the belt can't back the bolt off via vibration but I'm not sure.

Don't forget to use your feeler gauge to put the belt tension on correctly

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+1 on changing everything you can while you're in there. I skipped my crank seal because it showed no signs of leaking, and then the SOB started piddling as soon as I had it back together. Tearing it all apart isn't any more fun the second time.

 

I don't remember messing with the spring in mine, but yeah, once the tensioner is locked down, it shouldn't be doing much. I have a vague memory of trying to set it up with the tensioner the wrong way around and things not lining up but it was a while ago. The diagrams in the FSM are likely to be more help than I am.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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That is exactly what I did. I even bought a belt tensioning tool to achieve the 22 lbs of pressure on the belt. It isn't too bad to do.

 

This is the one I bought on Amazon.

Gates 7401-0076 Pencil Type Tension Tester

 

And most any feeler gauge of that thickness is about .5" wide.

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