Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
snucks

timing belt tensioner spring ?

Recommended Posts

I replaced the timing belt on my Pathfinder yesterday but I am unable to get the end of the spring to stay on the stud. If I add any amount of tension (by rotating the tensioner) it slips right off. It almost looks like its missing about 1/4" off of the end of it. My teenage neighbor kid was helping me remove everything so there is a chance he damaged it on the way out

 

Is the spring absolutely vital in some way I am not understanding? Because it does not look to me that it does anything at all. With the locknut tightened down the adjuster doesn't move so its not like the spring provides a strong counter force.

 

 

 

Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are changing the timing belt, it is best to change the tensioner too. It would be lame if the tensioner failed a few thousand miles later.

 

I remember it being a bit of a trick keeping the spring on the bolt, but I can't remember any details.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are changing the timing belt, it is best to change the tensioner too. It would be lame if the tensioner failed a few thousand miles later.

 

I remember it being a bit of a trick keeping the spring on the bolt, but I can't remember any details.

thanks for the reply

 

 

I only drive my truck 500-1k miles a year to be honest. I was digging around in there because the water pump started leaking through the weep hole and had a new water pump and timing belt sitting in the back since 2007 lol

 

I might just order a new one anyway because the local parts stores want 25 bucks a piece for the belts but Rockauto has them for around $10 combined....

 

fwiw the old belt was immaculate though a bit on the loose side

Edited by snucks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recommend changing tensioner regardless just because I've heard talk on how an old tensioner can degrade the life of your new timing belt by 50 percent. Take that how you will but it's a cheap part so I just changed mine, plus I broke the stud while tightening it to spec anyways so had to wait around regardless.

 

As for the tensioner spring you do not spun it full circle. The hole for the stud is offset so when you move the wheel you'll see it goes in towards the timing belt, likewise as you move the wheel you'll feel the tension build. I think the reason you need it is either to make sure the belt can't back the bolt off via vibration but I'm not sure.

Don't forget to use your feeler gauge to put the belt tension on correctly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 on changing everything you can while you're in there. I skipped my crank seal because it showed no signs of leaking, and then the SOB started piddling as soon as I had it back together. Tearing it all apart isn't any more fun the second time.

 

I don't remember messing with the spring in mine, but yeah, once the tensioner is locked down, it shouldn't be doing much. I have a vague memory of trying to set it up with the tensioner the wrong way around and things not lining up but it was a while ago. The diagrams in the FSM are likely to be more help than I am.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Possibly the spring is put on wrong? Flip it around and see if it works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Possibly the spring is put on wrong? Flip it around and see if it works.

Spring can o my go on one way, it hooks into the wheel itself

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tensioner spring is actually quite important during the installation and tensioning portion of the timing belt. See below:

 

NGIn0YD.jpg

 

onXOREH.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude I did not set mine like that... I wonder if I need to redo it... crud!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude I did not set mine like that... I wonder if I need to redo it... crud!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Um..Yes. Redo it. lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't set mine like that either--couldn't be arsed to find the exact shim and weight and all that. I went by the procedure in this writeup and it's gone 9k so far without issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is exactly what I did. I even bought a belt tensioning tool to achieve the 22 lbs of pressure on the belt. It isn't too bad to do.

 

This is the one I bought on Amazon.

Gates 7401-0076 Pencil Type Tension Tester

 

And most any feeler gauge of that thickness is about .5" wide.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, that's exactly how I did it and how it says to do it in the bible. When in doubt, pull the bible out. Especially for something as critical as the timing belt is in our engines

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×