OH6PILOT Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 Excellent post! Want to switch to rear discs brakes while you're at it? I know a guy with a set... PM Me. I may be interested at the right price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Very nice step by step with the pictures ! I guess you have a body lift as the upper radiator brackets are upside down, did the same on my former 87 Hardbody with the body lift. A member on Infamous forum is swapping a VG33 into his Hardbody and discovered most of the JDM VG33's that are for sale have the alternator on the pass. side, he wanted to keep his on the drivers side, where it is on the VG30, but he found the oil filter bracket was too thick and it would not allow the alternator to clear , so he replaced the oil filter mount with one from a frontier, it is thinner and allows the alternator to bolt up and clear. A tip when removing the hood and getting it to re align is to drill a hole through the mount into the hood on each mount, than when reinstalling use a drill bit to line up the hole in the mount into the hole in the hood, once the drill bit is through both holes you know it is in the same location it was before being removed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Just ran into that exact problem with the oil filter housing. I originally had done a mod on the bracket, which helped extend the alternator to clear the filter, but it put the alternator into contact with the steering unit. Yesterday I pulled an oil filter mount off of a JY Xterra that is thinner and changes the filter angle. This also makes it MUCH easier to install the higher amp alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Just ran into that exact problem with the oil filter housing. I originally had done a mod on the bracket, which helped extend the alternator to clear the filter, but it put the alternator into contact with the steering unit. Yesterday I pulled an oil filter mount off of a JY Xterra that is thinner and changes the filter angle. This also makes it MUCH easier to install the higher amp alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 The Xterra/Frontiers have the accessories in the same place as the wd21 so it would make sense that those brackets would work. Would be a good time to install the supercharger off an X while you're at it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Just ran into that exact problem with the oil filter housing. I originally had done a mod on the bracket, which helped extend the alternator to clear the filter, but it put the alternator into contact with the steering unit. Yesterday I pulled an oil filter mount off of a JY Xterra that is thinner and changes the filter angle. This also makes it MUCH easier to install the higher amp alternator. when I did mine I used parts from a 2000 exterra the angled oil filter mount a/c bracket and ps bracket, crank pulley. I think I posted all I did to mine including a 95 dash and main wiring from taillights to headlights plus the smaller harnesses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 The Xterra/Frontiers have the accessories in the same place as the wd21 so it would make sense that those brackets would work. Would be a good time to install the supercharger off an X while you're at it No why would you go tease me like that? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 No why would you go tease me like that? lol Haha. I have a complete VG33ER sitting in my garage. It would make a great replacement for the 500k 3.0 in my pathfinder. But it needs a rebuild first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 18. Removed Air Conditioning Radiator & AC Dryer Units & Removed Front Grille Assembly A. Here's a quick reference guide for the AC pressure system. B. Remove harness clip from hood lock stay, if equipped (gently press out). C. Remove hood lock stay plate (4 bolts) and hood lock stay brace (2 bolts) (10mm Socket) D. Remove hose (high pressure) clamp bracket from radiator core support. Disconnect high pressure hose at condenser. Use 14mm socket to remove clamp bolt. E. Disconnect dual pressure switch harness connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 18. CONT'D F. Disconnect high pressure tube (liquid tank to cooling unit) at liquid tank. G. Remove Liquid Cooling Tank Mounting Bolts, then remove tank. H. Remove condenser mounting bolts (2 bolts). I. Remove condenser assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 19. Remove Rubber Strip from Upper Grille Bulkhead Assembly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 ?want another project how about an 88 with 94/95 wiring from tailights to headlights 94/95 dash and inst, cluster, all ready for a 3.3 it also needs a tranny, MaMa says only 1 so I'm keeping the white 88 5spd and she has her 95.6 mos ago I had 4 pathys sitting around here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 20. Remove Front Cowl Top Grille Assembly Remove screws securing cowl top grille to body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) 21. Remove Front LH and RH fender assys Remove Front Lower Retention Bolts (Note: My fenders have been trimmed for the larger tires, so this may not look like a normal fender) Remove Front Upper Bolts. Ensure that bolts to the right and left sides of headlights are removed. Remove Hood Track Bolts Remove bolts from body where cowl top grille was installed. Edited March 7, 2018 by OH6PILOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 22. Removed Front Tires (No need to post a pics here...self-explanatory...put the truck on front jack stands) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 23. Remove all engine belts, loosened mounts on Alternator, PS pump and AC Compressor, Remove Idler Pulley& Bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I'm confused on why you're removing so much excess stuff. Why are you taking the entire front clip off? So you don't have to drop the diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 I'm confused on why you're removing so much excess stuff. Why are you taking the entire front clip off? So you don't have to drop the diff? While some of the stuff I've pulled off may not be "required", it makes access to the engine and the differential A LOT easier. I did remove the differential as well, and honestly removed ALOT of stuff that may not have been necessary for the engine swap, but it was stuff that I was going to overhaul anyway. Even though there may be excess, it's meant to be informational. Unfortunately I was editing Item #23 above and the forum kicked my edits and trashed a whole page worth of text, which I'm trying to get admins to assist with getting me editing rights to this thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 I understand and appreciate the informational aspect of it, was just confused once you're done I might add some additional information for those that are thinking of going the full vg33 set up instead of vg30 accessories as I believe you are going if I'm not mistaken. Finding information the way I went is a challenge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OH6PILOT Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 I understand and appreciate the informational aspect of it, was just confused once you're done I might add some additional information for those that are thinking of going the full vg33 set up instead of vg30 accessories as I believe you are going if I'm not mistaken. Finding information the way I went is a challenge Gotcha. Yeah, I feel for you. There are alot of sites that "talk" about the swap, and list what was changed, etc, but nothing that really talks about the pitfalls, the minor differences that become MAJOR changes, etc. those are all things i'm trying to cover with this thread. I have literally taken over 3,000 photos during this swap/conversion, and i'm going through them pic by pic to make sure i don't leave anything out, then editing with the arrows/notations so that people don't run into the same issues I did. It might be overkill, but it will literally be step-by-step. I almost went with the full VG33 conversion in regards to the accessories, but it would have required fully swapping everything to the opposite sides, and that wasn't gonna work...lol. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuPee Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Hi there, I see this was 2 years ago now, but how long in total did it take you to finish this and did it run correctly right away? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 And btw after reading some of this thread again, should I be running 5w30 in the motor? I have a ‘91 with original motor 315,000k on the OD.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 I'm running 5W30 in mine at 247k. 10W30 seemed to make my '95 tick a little more on cold starts. IIRC the manual recommends either depending on temperature conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 I've always used 5w30 in mine. 10w30 is not really recommended for anything anymore. 5w30 gives the same high temp protection and better cold flow rate. Sometimes I have ran 0w40 in the truck but only when I had some left over from my VW. It started up in -30C like it was summer time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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