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01 Frontier 3.3 OBDII codes and surging issues


RCWD21
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Been dealing with this issue since I got the truck back in February and haven't really done anything about it but figured I'd start looking into it again.

 

First thing that I can't figure out is that in first and second gear when accelerating the truck surges like I'm letting the clutch slip slightly until rpms reach above 4k. I replaced the fuel filter and the issue got slightly better (it needed to be changed) but I feel that something else isn't right. Timing belt was done 4k miles ago. Ignition timing hasn't been checked since replacing the distributor but this surging issue only started within the last month or so. With the less aggressive cam in the 3.3 are these engines more sensitive to heat soaking and hot air? Or am I just running it too damn hard?

 

Secondly I constantly have a code stating that the bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor is inactive. This code only showed after unplugging the connector to be able to remove a heatshield. Would that code also cause a P0420 code since the ECU isn't receiving a signal from the oxygen sensor? I only have 1 exhaust leak caused by the infamous cracked manifolds on the passenger side but again that's been there since way before the codes and surging.

 

I can hear a rattle under hard acceleration and heavy load (read 4k+ rpm)but when tapping on the cat I dont really hear anything loose although I guess the precat could have finally broken apart and is causing the noise.

 

Gas mileage seems ok, haven't really checked it.

 

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The surging issue seems to be worse with ambient temps over 90° so I'm starting to think that the oxygen sensor/ catalyst issue is causing one or both banks of cylinders to run leaner than normal

 

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Hmmm.. mine surges slightly until I reach 3k RPM. I have a P0420 code as well.

 

I looked at my cats, pre and main, while I had my engine out and they were fine. I still have this P0420 code.. maybe it is a dirty o2 sensor. Unfortunately I neglected to investigate any further than to see whether or not the cats were toast..

 

I'm subscribed.

 

 

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I cleared the codes today just to see if not having anything stored would help. Under hood temps were through the roof seeing as the ambient temp was around 100° along with the truck being black. After 5 miles I put it in first and started from about 5mph. It surged from 3k rpm down to around 2200 and did that 2 or 3 times. The surge becomes less and less the closer I get to 4k rpms. It's acting like it's starving for fuel but if I leave it in neutral I can rev it all the way to the fuel cut without any issues.

 

Everything ignition wise is in good shape or only has a few thousand miles on them. Timing belt is on correctly, iridium plugs were installed before timing belt was replaced.

 

This thing really has me stumped. Researching online isn't turning anything up.

 

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Reving the engine in neutral uses a lot less fuel than taking it to the same rpm under load, so I wouldn't put much faith in that test.

 

The rattling noise under load could be the exhaust leak. Unless it is more of a pinging noise, kind of like valve noise. If so, since it happens under load that could point to pre ignition. Higher ambient temps would also contribute to pre ignition and explain why it seems to be somewhat temp related.

 

I would also verify the timing, since it hasn't be checked after changing the distributor.

Edited by Citron
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Just to pick another mind besides my own, why would this problem come up now when nothing has changed on the truck since I did all the maintenance? I doubt temp alone would cause it seeing as this issue started while temps were still cool and it also does it in the rain or at night.

 

I don't hear any pinging or detonating even when it's really hot out. It has a slight miss at idle but every nissan I've ever owned has done that.

 

Could a TPS with a dead spot in it cause this issue?

 

I still haven't found my timing light but I'm going to search for it more tonight

 

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Is the TPS a potentiometer on these? If so, you could hook up a meter and verify if it is functioning through the whole range.

 

The other thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator. Do you have a way to monitor the fuel pressures?

 

Did the code stay cleared?

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The code came back on at 15 miles. I'm 99% sure it's the non-active bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor code.

 

But I found my timing light and checked the timing. The point was over the last mark to the right. I tried the timing at both 10° like the hood sticker says and also at 15°. At 15° the surging happens during lower rpms and happens more frequently. At 10° it's less pronounced at lower rpms but still very noticeable, but now as soon at it reaches 4k rpms it falls flat until 3k rpm and then goes back up and then down to 3500 and then bounces up til redline.

 

It only does this from a dead stand still or a very slow start from 1st to 2nd gear and very rarely in the beginning of 3rd gear. Once the truck is rolling past about 30mph the rpms only dip ever so slightly and then they steadily climb just like they should.

 

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Edited by RCWD21
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I would get the O2 sorted out. Since O2 is used for fuel trims, it will be hard to diagnose drivability problems with an active issue.

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But why would an o2 sensor that's been "inactive" since before all this be causing problems now?

 

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It may not have anything to do with your current issues, it may be contributing, or it may be the main cause. That's why I suggest getting it sorted out. Start with the things that are known issues first. If it does happen to be contributing, and it is ignored, then you will be chasing your tail trying to determine what is going on.

 

If this were a rearend problem, then you could ignore the O2, but since the O2 directly affects how the engine runs, and your having problems with the engine, I wouldn't ignore it.

 

How long was the O2 code set before you started having trouble?

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The o2 code has been present since February, but this issue only started appearing around 3 or 4 weeks ago.

 

It's just really strange that nothing has changed and yet this issue has come up. I'll be getting a hold of a bosch code reader tomorrow to pull the codes again and see if anything else has come up since the last reset a few days ago. CEL is on for sure because of that o2 code but there could be more. I'll keep you updated on how things go.

 

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Mr Elcocko had a similar sounding issue with surging under load and it turned out to be a vacuum leak. Check out his build thread for his quey for info. Might be worth looking into.

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After reading into the code for the o2 sensor (P0140) supposedly it's only there to monitor things and doesn't have any effect on driveability.

 

Now say I didn't have this particular code, what else could be causing this surging issue? I've checked for and haven't found any vacuum leaks. The only thing I haven't done to this truck is clean the maf in a while (cleaned back in February).

 

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I FOUND MY ISSUE!! Hopefully at least..

 

The intake boot cracked open and with the engine idling the cracks aren't apparent unless you really push and pull on the pleats.5b8f89488185f95d5a016e327291b200.jpgfff0ab08b153f57c412aeaf11eb352ae.jpgd9f2848f68d556b6809a038f218e1bc3.jpg8815a5d7843014678580692064e2d140.jpg

 

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Also here are the codes I had stored as of today. Along with some more specific data with the engine running at idle and at roughly 2k rpm.785d0311c5aa3ee7c903738559624823.jpg65d5200538ef233c84af34873bf61316.jpgbf4042b031109e8331b611b9180af7fc.jpgf64a8ddcd0f167d76ec55957a41a4c35.jpg1276e1af641e604a6f0d6fc55ec1a53d.jpg

 

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The timing should be 10 or 15 degrees at idle, yours is showing 12. While probably not causing an issue, may want to sort it out. I forget which year it went from 15 to 10.

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The timing should be 10 or 15 degrees at idle, yours is showing 12. While probably not causing an issue, may want to sort it out. I forget which year it went from 15 to 10.

The hood sticker says 10° and that's where I put it last, i haven't changed it back to 15° yet. I also ordered a new o2 sensor a little while ago and am currently waiting to hear back about a new intake boot.

 

Is that knock sensor code really worth the hassle on these newer vehicles? I hate where it's located....

 

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The hood sticker says 10° and that's where I put it last, i haven't changed it back to 15° yet. I also ordered a new o2 sensor a little while ago and am currently waiting to hear back about a new intake boot.

 

Is that knock sensor code really worth the hassle on these newer vehicles? I hate where it's located....

 

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If you're supercharged you should have it. If not just do the resistor mod. It will hurt the mileage even if it isn't a SC model. I've done it on a couple xterras. Made a huge difference in power on my 02 SC.

 

 

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If you're supercharged you should have it. If not just do the resistor mod. It will hurt the mileage even if it isn't a SC model. I've done it on a couple xterras. Made a huge difference in power on my 02 SC.

 

 

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Luckily it's the NA model. Do you happen to know the specs on the resistor? I have a few hundred of them so I probably have what is need already

 

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Luckily it's the NA model. Do you happen to know the specs on the resistor? I have a few hundred of them so I probably have what is need already

 

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I believe it's 560k ohms. I just soldered like 5 together to add up.

 

 

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That's for the SC model and I have a different plug, do you happen to know what color wires are to the knock sensor?

 

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I think I found the colors. They're gray and white or off white. I'll double check tomorrow when I install my sealed up intake boot for a temp fix.

 

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