Nate94XE4x2 Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 94 XE Automatic Symptoms: normal start and idle immediately after start except with what sounds like misses every 1 to two seconds? If I put it in gear within 5 to 10 seconds after starting it to move across the parking lot to the gate or back out of the longish driveway, I'm lucky if it doesn't stall out when I get to the gate or street. Lots of hesitation when I first start driving. Seems to do all right with my foot to the floor once it clears its throat but goes back to lots of hesitation when going back to normal throttle. This continues for about five minutes in cool to warm weather before everything seems to smooth out and things work fine for the rest of whatever drive I'm on. However, even when warm such as if running into The store for five minutes, same thing happens upon return and starting the truck. Sitting for two days, running into the store for 5 to 10 minutes or filling up with gas, no difference on restart. This all seems to have started fairly directly after I ran it out of gas for the first time ever. Around the same time, I also replaced the idle air control valve. I am also unable to remove the O2 sensor to replace it, which I believe to be bad or dying given ECU tests and fault codes. Since then, I have replaced the fuel filter, I have tested every sensor and switch I can find to test including the MAF and TPS sensors, which have all checked out. I have tested half the fuel injectors, The ones I could get to through the multi connector. I have removed the fuel pump from the tank and found both to be so clean after 260,000+ miles it looks like it came from the factory, with a clear screen on the pump. I have blown the fuel lines from the tank up to the engine compartment out with air, I have looked for vacuum leaks. I have run a 32oz bottle of Techron fuel treatment through a half a tank of gas. I did hook up a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter output and the fuel rail input. I get around 45 PSI with key on, I get about 38 after start and idle with jumps above 40 when I blip the throttle. I'm not sure if this is low or not, I am under the impression that the fuel regulator regulates the fuel rail to 40-ish psi. I guess I don't know if I expect straight fuel pump pressure to be higher. This thing has been running flawlessly for many years before now, what am I missing? Is the fuel pressure I am seeing normal or low? And when I find out this is spark plug wires or plugs or cap or rotor, which I have somewhat recently replaced with Bosch/Denso, can I pay one of you to shoot me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Have you checked the controller for the idle air control valve? I believe it is an ohm check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsteriffic Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 What exactly is stopping you from removing the O2 sensor? I recently replaced mine and I was having a similar problem to what you are describing. Upon replacing the sensor, my sputtering/stalling went away, and mileage jumped up to 18mpg! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate94XE4x2 Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 I replaced the IACV because the old one tested bad and threw an ECU code. Talk about a pain in he ass to get to. No go on the O2 sensor: prev owner deleted cat and put in track pipe. I kinda wonder if the O2 sensor didn't get welded into place. No go with the right socket tool, no go with a monster pipe wrench even after soaked with PB blaster and the correct angle for leverage and everything. Now it's rounded right to hell but still connected and giving SOME readings. Guess I need to MAPP gas the pipe next, try heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 I had a hell of a time getting the O2 out of my '95. I ended up welding the spark plug socket to it and twisting it out in two pieces, which was of course not ideal. I was told afterwards that it's much easier if the exhaust system is hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate94XE4x2 Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 Well hell, boys. Another look at the ECU diags in mode 1 told me the O2 sensor was dead weight. So I jacked up the truck right after a drive, hit the O2 bung with a torch, got the 24" pipe wrench dug in, stripped it some more, brought out all the colorful language, questioned my understanding of lefty-loosey when under, backwards and upside down, and damn near quit again when the thing moved. By no means did it come out the rest of the way easily. Don't know if they skipped the anti seize or what. New one in and whaddya know, thing runs like a champ again. I've had a lot of old vehicles. This is the first to demonstrate that a bad O2 sensor will put you in a bad mood when the engine runs like crap. I'd check my newfound mpg rating if my odometer hadn't quit... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 you can probably fix the odometer by removing the cluster, and tightening the brass screws on the back of it slightly, they are the ground points. I've fixed several "bad" clusters this way. You could even go as far as to remove the screws and use contact cleaner on the thin board with the contacts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exorpmtech Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 The heat usually gets em..good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exorpmtech Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 The heat usually gets em..good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exorpmtech Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 The heat usually gets em..good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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