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P0171 and P0174 Code, SES and SOLUTION


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So as usual, my cream puff 2001.5 R50 that I purchased in 2011 has every problem ~5-10 years after the greater Pathfinder Population does. Bad cam sensors (7 years later), Bad IACV (9 Years later), Bad MAF (10 years later). So fortunate to have this forum and others as a resource for troubleshooting. Anyways....

 

So my Pathfinder performance has been noticeably lacking for months, but I couldn't quite put a finger on it. Finally I got a SES for P0171 and P0174 (bank 1 and bank 2 lean). No drastic change in performance, just a little sluggish and lacking on >4,500 RPMs. I cleared the codes several times, tried cleaning my MAF but the codes kept coming back.

 

I did some internet checking and came across a variety of solutions but everyone was complaining about the truck being in fail safe mode or running terribly, etc. I was daily driving this thing in traffic for a few weeks without significant issue. Anyways I came across 88pathoffroad's post (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12280-cheap-01-maf-sensor-problem-fix/) and decided to jump on ordering the Maxima MAF from Courtesy Parts. In the end it solved my problem (~200 miles with no SES light returning), however my experience was nothing like everyone's description where it dropped in and was a night and day difference and solved their problem. My guess that my MAF was in the middle of dying a slow and painful death and my ECU had slowly gone WAY out of line to try to adapt to the bad signals from the MAF.

 

My Experience when I installed the Maxima MAF was not a night and day change; it took about 30-40 miles of driving until the engine and tranny were anywhere near normal. I also performed an "Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure" which helped greatly. At first the engine had NO power from 3,000 to Redline and the transmission shifted HARD and SLOW. However, after about 30 min of driving it was slowly getting better and better. I think the ECU was so out in left field because of the bad MAF that it took awhile for it to return to center and run like it should. It probably would have been a faster learn procedure if I had reset the ECU.

 

Anyways, long way to say that if you had a slow fail on your MAF your ECU may take some driving time to come back to center after replacing the MAF unless you reset the ECU.

 

Also because I didn't find all of this information in any one place:

  • YES, the Maxima MAF assembly (tube and all) bolted right in place
  • NO, the sensor is not identical in size and shape
  • YES it's plug and play
  • YES the Maxima MAF is a 5 pin
  • YES the Pathy is a 4 pin with an empty 5th pin
  • NO, you do not need an "ECU reprogram", this is for a specific problem related to Maximas only
  • YES, I would recommend the "Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure"
  • YES, I think an ECU reset would probably be a good Idea
  • YES, my Local Dealer wanted ~$500 for the Pathfinder MAF
  • My cost was ~$80 shipped from Texas to Washington from Courtesy Nissan
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Thank you

 

My lean code is still there after a new engine. So I've either got a faulty o2 sensor or maybe my MAF is loosing it.. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier just to go to a pullapart for the replacement MAF instead of using the Maxima MAF...?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by onespiritbrain
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I don't know about it being easier, but it might be a bit cheaper. Still $80 shipped to my door from 3K miles away seems pretty reasonable considering the local dealer wanted $500. It seems like MAF failure is not uncommon and if you plan on keeping it awhile a new one might be better than a used one.

 

Thank you

My lean code is still there after a new engine. So I've either got a faulty o2 sensor or maybe my MAF is loosing it.. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier just to go to a pullapart for the replacement MAF instead of using the Maxima MAF...?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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  • 3 years later...

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