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1999 JR50 Engine Swap


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The shaft should be fine. Using super fine Emery cloth and stopping as soon as it is clean enough is the way to go. Just be careful, you would be surprised how quickly you can remove metal.

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Stand still today.. last night I got the power steering pump, water pump, cam seals, front and rear seal, cam sprockets, oil pump, and oil pan finished.

 

Do not forget to reattach the oil pickup flange to the oil pump... you'll have to rip the oil pan back off and it's not fun.

 

The forsaken gaskets Nissan used for the oil pump and rear main seal housing are ridiculously hard to remove. It took me hours scraping at just the right angle to get them off and the rear main seal housing gasket was just terrible since the engine was mounted on the stand.. can't even imagine trying to do this with the engine in the vehicle.

 

So my old engine is so insanely dirty that I really can't use anything on it... the timing covers on the new engine are rusty along with the valve covers so I got some rust stop black paint and I am hoping for the best.

 

Every step of this process has involved deep cleaning. It is taking forever but I am glad I'm cleaning everything.

 

I will say that the internals of the engine, that I can see, make me think that the previous owner(s) took care of it.

 

If you all remember the pipe cleaners stuffed in the hoses and pipe between the valve covers when I was changing my timing belt.. I feel safe saying that my previous engine's owner(s) did not take care of it. I had some serious cold start lifter noise also.. and long idle smoking.

 

 

 

 

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Okay so I have no way of knowing where the dizzy was in relation to the engines timing(compression stroke, exhaust) since there was no dizzy on this new engine.

 

Here's what I did. Someone who knows please correct me if I am wrong, please.

 

1. I removed the #1 spark plug.

 

2. I rotated the engine with the hb bolt until I saw the cylinder come to a complete stop and took note of which mark on the harmonic balancer tdc actually is. It's the first white mark. The first mark is yellow, so it's the second mark but the first white mark.

 

3. I placed my finger over the #1 spark plug hole and rotated the engine until pressure began to build.

 

4. While in the compression stroke I continued to rotate the engine until the timing hand on the timing cover pointed to the first white mark(second mark, first being yellow) on the hb.

 

5. I removed the dizzy and turned it until the rotor points to the #1 spark plug and installed the dizzy.

 

Please alert me if this is incorrect.

 

I heard a tale of the pathfinder being timed to different than 0 degrees...?

 

 

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15 degrees for the vg33

Well... that means I am going to have to rent a timing light. Right? There is no way to time at 15 degrees without the light?

 

And when I get the light it is basically loosing that single bolt that holds the dizzy and tweaking it slightly until the timing cover hand points to the correct mark on the hb?

 

I will read the FSM on this for sure but that's the gist of it right?

 

 

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Wow... I don't know why I have not seen this thread before, but I just went through it and let me tell you sir... You've got my respect now that I see that you're tackling this in your driveway !.. I bet after this, you'll be like me and go around the mud and water holes LOL... Keep it up.. I can't wait to read what's next.

S.

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Wow... I don't know why I have not seen this thread before, but I just went through it and let me tell you sir... You've got my respect now that I see that you're tackling this in your driveway !.. I bet after this, you'll be like me and go around the mud and water holes LOL... Keep it up.. I can't wait to read what's next.

S.

Thank you. I will absolutely be skipping the water/mud...! What I really want to do going forward is equip the front end and undercarriage to be able to plow thru brush and small vegetation. So when I come up on a mud hole I can blaze a bypass!

 

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It is almost time!!!

 

I don't have a batt. charger so I will have to take mine to the local auto parts store. I also have to pick up a new drive belt since I had to ruin mine to torque the hb bolt.

 

On a side note: If anyone has a 2001-2017 Honda with transmission issues, I highly suggest replacing the transmission oil pressure sensors. Did wonders for mine.

 

 

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The transmission in my wife's MDX died last night... I had to get the LeSabre up to snuff or we'd be stranded... troubles come together it seems. Some might say, "when it rains, it pours".. I thought I had the issue figured out with the 3rd and 4th oil pressure sensors. Guess not! Never was an issue with the pressure sensors anyway it seems.. the 5speed A/Ts in 01-05 V6 Hondas are junk. The 4speeds weren't much better either.. The thing could've at least waited until I was finished with mine.. RANT!

 

Anyways! I just finished with the bell housing bolts, flex plate, and starter. My dumb butt forgot the sheet metal guard that goes between the trans and engine.. I put the bottom section on but I'm not pulling the engine back out for that thing. I'll probably RTV what I can get to..

 

I am excited to hear this thing running again!

 

I am kicking around the idea of buying a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight to flush and recharge my A/C instead of paying someone to do it.. I think it'll be about the same cost.

 

 

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If it's about the same cost I'd say get the AC done professionally, so that you know it's done right. If you can't get it done right it'll need to be paid for twice. So motor in your rig and now tranny in your wife's...careful, bad things come in threes!

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This differential!!!

 

You need a tiny little jack with x,y adjustment!!!!

 

I got it done but I am certainly not going to pass up on ranting about how terrible it was! Probably a breeze with a lift...

 

Word Trainbrain

 

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Edited by onespiritbrain
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I bought the tools needed to recharge AC correctly and taught myself how to do it. It really isn't rocket science. Since then I've done my own cars a few times, as well as some friends' cars. It's not a tool that I'll use very often, but I'm glad I have it.

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She is purring like a kitten!!! There was a loud knock when I first cranked it but after an intense prayer and a quick drive it went away.

 

I adjusted the timing by ear. It's pretty clear if it's not in the right spot.. is this sufficient??

 

So the engine makes a whirling noise. I've looked up worn engine bearings and I don't see whirling noises at all.. what else might this be?!?

 

1k thru 5k rpm sounds AWESOME! There were a bit of chirping noises as well but I redlined the engine and now that sound has disappeared..

 

I'm scared that I should've replaced the main bearings and rod bearing while I had the engine out...

 

Worst case scenario; how hard would rod/main bearing overhaul be without pulling the engine?

 

Also, I did the timing belt. Last time I did the tb there was a whirling noise that was intertwined with a midrange tone that increased frequency with engine rpm.

 

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Edited by onespiritbrain
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You need to buy/borrow a timing light. You can only get it close by ear, and close is only good with horse shoes and hand grenades. An auto parts store will usually have one you can use for free.

 

As for the whirling, idk.

 

You could always drop the subframe to allow access to the bottom end.

 

Glad you are back up and running!

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  • 2 months later...

FWIW I have some whirring noises on mine too, very apparent when you're in front of the engine. I suspect it's the water pump impeller making noise, because mine was ROARING until I got enough water in it to wet the pump and then it quieted down to a whir. I plan to get a stethescope and prodd around up front, see if maybe it's a pulley bearing or my thermal fan clutch making the noise

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