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Camshaft Position Sensors going bad


hcorps
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What would cause my pathfinder to go into limp mode? No check engine light. I turned it off and it acted like battery was real weak. I tried the key a few times and then it just cranked right up no problem and is no longer in limp mode.

 

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People do like to butcher stereo wiring, but I think it would take a pretty determined butcher to screw up a radio install bad enough to have it mess with the cam sensors. Unless other things running off the same circuit as the stereo are acting up, I'd leave the stereo out of this.

 

Acting like the battery's weak (slow crank?), then acting like it isn't makes me suspicious of a bad connection somewhere, possibly a corroded or loose terminal on the battery. I don't know how the R50 ECU reacts to its power supply going in and out but I wouldn't be surprised if it caused some issue or another.

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I was just wondering because it has the Bose sound system, and each speaker has its own amplifier..if the stereo was installed maybe somehow the amplifiers stay on because the new radio has a built in amplifier...but I'm going to trace the battery wires and make sure they are not kinked or corroded, then try to check out the camshaft senor wires.

 

 

Edited by hcorps
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Yeah, it's not hard to make a battery run down with a bad stereo install. But a flat battery tends to stay flat unless recharged, so again, your description of it acting like the battery's flat and then cranking up no problem a minute later suggests that the problem's not a flat battery. I've run down car batteries several times and I've yet to have one deliver an unexpected second wind.

 

Hopefully it's something simple.

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The battery fuse link positive side corrodes is a common problem. Take it apart and clean real good. This is probably not your problem but it's always good to make sure everything has a good connection.

 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

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It only seems to act up like this when the weather is hot. During the winter no problems. Its throwing a p0011 code which I know cant be right cause I had both camshaft sensors and the solenoid replaced like 200 miles ago...

 

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I've had my share of problems with the P0011 (and P0021 on the other side) which will instantly put you in the limp mode. My VVT solenoids have been replaced and I still got the codes. I flushed (motor medic) the engine, replaced the oil/filter and still got the code. Then I thought to take off the solenoid and blow 50 psi compressed air into the passages on the valve cover (where the solenoid bolts up). This blew out 2-3 ounces of oil, but I assume back flushed out any gunk, etc in there. 300 miles and no codes. Again, this is blowing out the passages that the VVT solenoid housing mounts onto, not the solenoid itself, but make sure its clean too.

 

Oddly, when I get the VVT codes my work around to keep driving without limp mode is to clear the code and remove the cam sensor (keep plugged in). It's a little harder to start, but runs fine and doesn't trigger limp mode.

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Wires tested, I cleaned up the positive battery fuse block, cleaned out and tested both Cam sensor connections. Still goes into limp mode after 1mile of driving. Nissan says the Variable Timing Camshaft gear may have slipped a tooth or the pickup on the cam gear is bad.

 

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Reading your posts you have the exact same problems I've had and we have the same year. I've got 125k miles.

 

You mention you use 10/30 oil, I'd suggest going with fresh 5/30 as the VVT is oil sensitive from what I've read. Doesn't seem like a big difference, but that's what they say. The manual says not to use synthetic btw. Also, make sure filter is new. While the oil will travel through and around a dirty filter as a fail-safe, the pressure could be reduced enough to not actuate the VVT properly.

 

If you haven't got a code reader yet they are ~$20 at Walmart. Necessary because you will go into limp mode before the CEL turns on. This is because the computer is programmed to wait as to avoid false readings. I'd recommend a code scanner because they give live data, more useful, but they also cost around ~$100.

 

Try this - clear the codes and remove driver side cam sensor from its socket, but leave the connector on. See if it runs without limp mode. It will be slightly harder to start but mine ran fine but with the CEL on. If this doesn't work, replace it and then try removing the passenger side sensor, again, leave the circuit connected.

 

I'd also suggest removing the VVT bodies, cleaning them and shooting compressed air into the 5 holes where they mount up on top of the engine. It's the last thing I did two weeks ago and so far >300 miles and running great. I'd like to think there was some debris or sludge that cleared out and we're now good for a long time.

 

On your catalytic, I think driving much under limp mode might be bad for it, possibly contaminating it with unburned fuel. It might clear up once everything else is in order. I'd wait and fix your other problems before replacing them. Good luck.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm still stumped..would the transmission have anything to do with the problem? It goes into limp mode and sounds like a diesel only in drive, I stop, put it park or neutral and the ratteling stops and revs right up like nothings wrong.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't have a shop manual for my pathfinder, could someone tell me what the voltage should be at the camshaft position sensor harnesses and the variable valve timeing solenoid harness?

 

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I don't have a shop manual for my pathfinder, could someone tell me what the voltage should be at the camshaft position sensor harnesses and the variable valve timeing solenoid harness?

 

 

Sorry to see you're still still having this problem. Did you get my late pm response?

 

For the VVT solenoid I measured the voltage a few months ago: when you disconnect it and the lockclip is up the left lead is pos and rt is neg, I get ~13v with engine on or off. I get 13v with the left lead to ground too, so I think the rt lead is ground. I don't think knowing the voltage helps much though as I measured it while my wife rev'd it to 3500 rpm and the voltage didn't change much so it always has 13v. This tells me it is the current that changes to activate the VVT between 2 and 3k rpm. If you pull the solenoid out of the housing and run the engine up the solenoid will "buzz" between 2-3k rpm. You could probably put a scope on it without pulling it and hear that it is operating. Below 2k rpm it is full off, above it is full on.

 

Have you been able to drive as I did, with the cam pos sensor pulled out but still connected, until sorted out?

 

Right now our Pathfinder is operating perfectly. Even the mpg seems to have improved to what it should be.

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Sorry to see you're still still having this problem. Did you get my late pm response?

 

For the VVT solenoid I measured the voltage a few months ago: when you disconnect it and the lockclip is up the left lead is pos and rt is neg, I get ~13v with engine on or off. I get 13v with the left lead to ground too, so I think the rt lead is ground. I don't think knowing the voltage helps much though as I measured it while my wife rev'd it to 3500 rpm and the voltage didn't change much so it always has 13v. This tells me it is the current that changes to activate the VVT between 2 and 3k rpm. If you pull the solenoid out of the housing and run the engine up the solenoid will "buzz" between 2-3k rpm. You could probably put a scope on it without pulling it and hear that it is operating. Below 2k rpm it is full off, above it is full on.

 

Have you been able to drive as I did, with the cam pos sensor pulled out but still connected, until sorted out?

 

Right now our Pathfinder is operating perfectly. Even the mpg seems to have improved to what it should be.

 

I seem to be having the same problem with my new to me, 2003. Im gonna try and do what you recommend tomorrow and hopefully that works.

 

You mentioned earlier buying a code reader as opposed to a scanner, what is the benefit of that?

 

Im gonna flush the oil with seafoam, new filter, blow out the valve covers, and VVT solenoids, any other suggestions while im in there?

 

Thanks

 

-Kyle

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You mentioned earlier buying a code reader as opposed to a scanner, what is the benefit of that?

 

Im gonna flush the oil with seafoam, new filter, blow out the valve covers, and VVT solenoids, any other suggestions while im in there?

 

Thanks

 

-Kyle

 

The only benefit of the reader is the cost, as low as $20, but they still do the job, including clearing the codes. I recently bought an Autel scanner for $100 so I could see O2 sensors output (in a graph) and they also see detail on the emissions status.plus a database of codes (nice but not really necessary).

 

Good luck on the clean out, specifically clearing those oil journals that feed from the engine into the solenoid with 50psi of air. From the time I did that I've not had any issues and that was 3k miles ago.

Edited by Pathypop
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Yeah, i tried that and while it worked for a little while longer than before i had cleaned it, the second i got up to speed on the freeway (70 MPH) it went into limp mode. no stored codes, just pending, an 02 Sensor and both Cam shaft sensor codes.

 

What should i do next?

 

-Kyle

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That is frustrating as he11. Wish you were a neighbor so we could work it through. I'd be trying your parts on my truck to see if specific ones have a problem. If you know anyone else with your truck to experiment with.

 

Make sure you've done everything you can to make sure the oil, filter, etc are clean and the correct 5w30. I think you already cleaned the solenoids, and you cleared out the oil passages with air as I mentioned. I also used a motor flush when I changed the oil. Added it to the old oil and let it idle for 5 minutes. Not sure if it does much, but it can only help.

 

For the solenoids, they are expensive from the dealer (~$240 each IIRC) so I wouldn't suggest you buy them unless you are sure. I'd bought a $30 knock-off on ebay just to check it out, it did work, but I'm not using it now. I'd suggest you go to a salvage yard and buy them for about $20 each. They are very durable and doubtful they wouldn't work. The same ones are used on all the VQ35DE engines, so there are a lot available. Some have paper gaskets and others have metal gaskets. I was sure to get the metal gaskets only. I also picked up cam sensors at the salvage yard for about $5 each.

 

Check the solenoids removed from the truck with 12v. They should click solidly.

Edited by Pathypop
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  • 3 weeks later...

I took my pathfinder to a specialist, no shorts, all the timing parts were getting the correct amount of voltage ect. He cleared all the codes and took it for a drive, he went like 50 miles of hard driving and it went into limp mode, engine light came on, codes showed the camshaft position sensors ect..he cleared the code drove it hard for 50 miles and engine light came on and limp mode again, he pulled over, turned engine off, cleared codes and started it right up again and it ran good for 40+ miles...he doesn't know if its the ECU or it needs a VVT cam gear...

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Not sure about Seafoam, but having it in the oil will change the viscosity and possibly the way the VVT's operate, so you'll want to change it soon. I used a quart of Motor Medic when I changed my oil the first time. This involves adding it before changing the oil and running the engine at idle for 5 minutes, then changing it out and the filter. My hope is it does what it says and releases sludge.

 

If you're able to drive 50 miles before going to limp mode, that sounds like progress. I couldn't drive 5 mi without going into limp mode when I had this problem.

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Same situation with me happend no far ago (

its a P1145 err code

type : powertrain - manufacturer controlled DTC

description: camshaft variable valve timing sensor bank 2 - range\perfomance problem

cause : wiring, camshaft variable valve sensor, ECM

 

I tryed to clear it from my ELM adapter but after engene off \ on it shows again. May be its a wire or may be its a senser itself. Im gonna to try clear it with a CARB. May be itwill help )

second step - to change the sensor.

 

Also ive there is noise from my engene like it hitting hammer to a metal solid ( sound like a diesel engene works... chik chik chik chik :)... pardon for my english - not my best skill ))))

mecanics said need to check the engene valves - may be some of spacers were mixed up. Have you guys faced with this ?

 

And the most valuable case - fuel consumption . For me its around 20 lit for a 100 KM. What do i need to check if i want to decrease it ?

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This is the most cryptic &^%*ing thing i have ever read, but after about a dozen times of reading this stupid thing, i think the determination was the VCT Cam gear was bad.

 

https://www.justanswer.com/nissan/8m6qp-pathfinder-2003-nissan-pathfinder-showing-code-p0021.html

 

Im gonna try and few more things, oil flush, and things of that nature, if that's not it, im taking to a trusted mechanic friend and i think he's just gonna change the Cam gear for me. Valvetrain stuff scares the hell out of me.

 

Ill keep you guys updated.

 

-Kyle

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