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steering extensions


haydenmidd12
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All of the subframe and strut spacers need to be equal lengths. Imo if you only want a 2" lift you'd be better off with strut spacers, just because of how much work a sfd is. Woodward Steering sells the steering extension, but you may not need it if you are only doing a 2" sfd. Not 100% sure on that though. If you do end up needing the steering extension just call Woodward and they will tell you what you need.

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Does anyone know where i can get one?

 

 

If I do like a 2 inch subframe drop would I need them?

 

 

If I do a 2 inch subframe drop would a 3 inch strut spacer work?

 

All of the subframe and strut spacers need to be equal lengths. Imo if you only want a 2" lift you'd be better off with strut spacers, just because of how much work a sfd is. Woodward Steering sells the steering extension, but you may not need it if you are only doing a 2" sfd. Not 100% sure on that though. If you do end up needing the steering extension just call Woodward and they will tell you what you need.

 

2" is about the minimum you can go, otherwise you run into hardware clearance issues inside the spacers. But as Snowboarder12345 mentioned, there's not much benefit to it.

 

You don't necessarily need the strut spacers height to match the subframe spacer height, but you do need the subframe spacer height to match the motor mount spacer height. The goal of the SFD is to offset some amount of lift so that the CVs won't bind. For the 2" SFD, for example, you could use AC's 2" lift springs, no strut spacers, and 2" SFD blocks if you wanted...and your CVs would be at stock angles. It's also okay for the amount of lift (by strut spacers and/or spring lift) to exceed the height of the subframe spacers, like in the case of a 6" SFD (which is essentially a 4" SFD with an additional 2" lift).

 

You do need a new steering shaft for any amount of SFD drop. The increase in length is not consistent with the amount of drop (i.e., a 4" SFD does not warrant a 4" longer shaft). Woodward probably won't be able to tell you what you need, except perhaps for the 4" kit since they've sold a few. I think someone has posted the length of the shaft for the 4" kit; I can tell you what's necessary for a 2.5" and 3" SFD because I've done both.

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Well I am only 2wd and I know people ask why lift a 2wd but Its like why do people at SEMA have 2wd but still. My truck has a natural nose dive. I will probably end up doing a 4 inch sub frame drop and just have the 2inch ac coils for the rear. and have a little squats and run 33s and 22x14 american forces I have a set in my garage I will probably put on there.

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I managed to find the part numbers from an old email I have, this is exactly what I used.

 

"(Part numbers- UA201113, UA201108, and need a UAD shaft length of 5 3/4")"

 

The UAD shaft is for a 4" sfd, and will be too long for a shorter sfd guaranteed. But the 2 part numbers above are for the 2 U joints that are needed to fit a Woodward shaft. You will just have to figure out how long of a shaft you will need.

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@haydenmidd12: That's cool. Not too relevant, though, since the process and parts are 100% identical if you want to do it to a 2wd. Keep in mind, though, with the setup you just mentioned (4" SFD + 2" rear AC springs), you'll be sitting lower in the rear than the front. You'd probably need to consider adding rear spring spacers, or going with a modified WJ rear spring.

 

So is the goal 33" tires?

Edited by hawairish
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I am thinking about doing a 2inch subframe spacer and doing a 2 inch strut spacers with a 1 inch or so front lift coil. and I don't think ill run into steering issues dealing with steering linkage

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I am thinking about doing a 2inch subframe spacer and doing a 2 inch strut spacers with a 1 inch or so front lift coil. and I don't think ill run into steering issues dealing with steering linkage

 

No. A new or modified steering link is required for any SFD amount.

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Wait a minute.

The only reason to do a SFD is to avoid binding your CV axles.

Since you don't have any, you can just use a 4" strut spacer and be done.

 

Or are you concerned about alignment and bump-steer issues?

 

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CV binding isn't the only reason for an SFD. It's meant to correct all the effects of lifting, 2wd or 4wd:

 

Driveline (4wd): restored CV angles, reduced binding, more efficiency

Alignment: it moves the LCA mounts downward, effectively restoring kingpin inclination

Steering: tie-rods are strongest, and work best, when level

Suspension: restores travel and corrects ball joint angles

Stability: sway bar links should be perpendicular to the sway bar mount to be the most effective

 

When it boils down to things, though, these benefit 4WDers who find themselves in situations where obstacles can put significantly higher stresses on the components that street driving doesn't. SFD doesn't make any component stronger, but helps them work more efficiently. Obviously, there are less effects at 2" than there are at 4".

 

Again, OP, what's the goal here?

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CV binding isn't the only reason for an SFD. It's meant to correct all the effects of lifting, 2wd or 4wd:

 

Driveline (4wd): restored CV angles, reduced binding, more efficiency

Alignment: it moves the LCA mounts downward, effectively restoring kingpin inclination

Steering: tie-rods are strongest, and work best, when level

Suspension: restores travel and corrects ball joint angles

Stability: sway bar links should be perpendicular to the sway bar mount to be the most effective

 

When it boils down to things, though, these benefit 4WDers who find themselves in situations where obstacles can put significantly higher stresses on the components that street driving doesn't. SFD doesn't make any component stronger, but helps them work more efficiently. Obviously, there are less effects at 2" than there are at 4".

 

Again, OP, what's the goal here?

I want to get my truck lifted alittle in the front i have a 1.5 inch lift but it doesn't really effect anything. so i would do like a 3 inch subframe drop

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So another 1.5" of front lift? It's say just put the lift springs and strut spacer on and that's it. You'd drop another few hundred just to negate the lift via SFD...probably not worth it. Should be alignable with 1, possibly 2, sets of camber bolts. Some bump steer, but probably manageable.

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