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Click but no start


QXFoe
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I just got a 2002 QX4 and the owner told me it will sometimes click and not start. I read where it could be the Neutral park switch but to troubleshoot it the next time it did it, place in neutral and try. I did and it still wouldn't start. Looked around for a solution but didn't come up with much. Truck has 165k and runs like a dang top otherwise although having three codes of which one is an O2 sensor of course. I am new here and you'll most likely see me quite a bit. It's my first pathfinder/QX4 but I buy and sell often and join forums for each model to learn about them and interact with fellow owners. Thanks for looking and maybe someone has an ide where to start.

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I guess that's more my issue than anything is it cranks right up after a few tries so it's hard to troubleshoot. If I tap and it starts there was a good chance it would start anyway.

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I had a similar problem with a 22re toyota pickup years ago. I took the starter out, took it apart and cleaned all of the carbon dust and crud out, and put it back in. Got another year out of the starter before needing to replace it.

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I don't know how long it's been acting up but I'm thinking it may be the solenoid I'm hearing? And it's not passing the juice to engage the starter perhaps?

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Easy enough to test. Get a multi meter and test for voltage on both main lugs of the solenoid while someone turns the key. If you get battery voltage on both lugs while the key is in start, then the solenoid is fine. Should only take a minute or two to check.

 

If you don't have a meter, then you can jumper from one main lug to the other. If it turns over then the solenoid is bad, if it doesn't turn over then starter motor is bad, provided you have battery voltage at the starter to begin with. Be careful doing it this way as you will get some arching and sparking.

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I have a meter so I should see 12v at the hot lug to ground and then 0 across the lugs without engaging the coil, and 12v again once someone turns key right? But my issue also is that it works most of the time. Pretty aggravating. It seems if the coil was open it would never engage and would magically start working again. But I hear the click, so guess maybe the contact isn't "closing" good enough?

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Test both lugs to ground. But yes, 12v on line side with key off, 12v on both with key engaged.

 

Funk on the contacts is exactly right. Everytime a contact opens and closes there is a small amount of arching. This leaves a buildup on the contact surfaces, if you clean it off the switch makes better contact.

 

You could remove the battery cable from the starter, tape it off so it doesn't make contact with anything. Then ohm across the solenoid switch and have someone turn the key. This would test the condition of the switch itself. It should read less than 5 ohms. If it is more, then the contacts of the switch are dirty. This would be for curiosity sake, since the test measuring voltage is a pass/fail.

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That's really smart. I didn't think to ohm the contacts. Should be able to clean them. If they ohm high. I've read terrible thins about putting new starters/solenoids on the QX4. Seems to have been a faulty component out of the box. So I hate to drop x amount of dollars only to have a fail on a new one. Any suggested brands? There's a remy online for 60$ but then I think AC Delco is 120$. Big difference. It's an old truck lol

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Idk on brands. I haven't been a full time mechanic for 14 years. Just work on friends, family and my own stuff anymore. Back in the day, it was best to avoid Napa electrical components, but I don't know if that is still true. I have got to the point where if I am worried about brands on a repair, then I will usually buy OEM. Maybe someone can chime in on a good brand for Nissan parts?

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Thank y'all for all the replies! I may just let it fail completely. Or may try to take it off and disassemble to see if I can clean it up. Maybe recondition the contacts.

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A wire brush and electric contact cleaner can go a long ways. Just loosen the nuts first and go to town. It may not fix it but it can't hurt.

 

 

Seems silly to go into a hard winter with a truck that could strand you.

Edited by LittleFR
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Yeah it's not really a DD. Pretty much won't strand me e en if the solenoid fails but you're right I'll probably at least look at it before replacing just to make sure. Hate to throw parts at something that hasn't been probably troubleshot first.

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I finally got to degrease the engine also to look for the source of an oil leak. Dang rear main...how terrible is it to change in these?

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I have a good trans mechanic here... $250 for a 2wd $350 for a 4wd trans swap/ with fluid or a pull and replace rear main seal.

Wow! That is super cheap. Where are you located?! I only gave 1k for the truck but it has three codes all are catalytic converter and o2 sensor, rear main leaking and strong smell of gas from exhaust. I got really worried after cranking and seeing a lot of vapor from exhaust and what I thought was a great bit of water coming from exhaust but radiator is full so maybe I'll be ok

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