johntriger Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 So, I am new to this forum and looking for some help here. My name is John and I am from Oklahoma, recently my Pathfinder has started this issue where it will crank over but not start after it warms up. So far I replaced the distributor, but it still will not start when warm.Also used a code reader and didn't get any codes. Is this a common problem or am I just an unlucky person here? I just happened to come across this forum and I do not really go off road with my vehicle, I hope that isn't a problem, but I assumed people that do go off-roading will most likely have more experience fixing these vehicles up and pushing them to their limits. If you have any ideas at all what could be wrong please reply! tldr: Replaced the distributor because my vehicle wouldn't start when warm, but still wont start when warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleFR Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) Could be a couple things. MAF Fuel psi regulator. There's also a fuel distributor hose thingy a member just had to change that fixed his truck. Fuel Dampener (that's what it's called) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42521-randomly-dying/page-2 Could also be stretched timing belt. Edited December 3, 2016 by LittleFR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 I have a similar problem on my Titan. I have found that if I try to start it shortly after shutting it off, it will not start. If I turn the key on for a few seconds to let the fuel pump run and build pressure, then it starts no problem. It is habit now to always turn the key to run for a few seconds before starting. Does this work on your pathy, or do you need to let it completely cool down before starting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johntriger Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Could be a couple things. MAF Fuel psi regulator. There's also a fuel distributor hose thingy a member just had to change that fixed his truck. Fuel Dampener (that's what it's called) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42521-randomly-dying/page-2 Could also be stretched timing belt. Thank you! I will check these things out! sort of making a list so far haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johntriger Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 I have a similar problem on my Titan. I have found that if I try to start it shortly after shutting it off, it will not start. If I turn the key on for a few seconds to let the fuel pump run and build pressure, then it starts no problem. It is habit now to always turn the key to run for a few seconds before starting. Does this work on your pathy, or do you need to let it completely cool down before starting? I will have to try this and report back. Is it just that your pump is weak or something? You would think it wouldn't depressurize so fast yeah know? Do our cars actually have a fuel return? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Will it start if you fully depress the accelerator while starting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McFalconPunch Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 I had the same issue with my 03. Cleaned MAF, nothing. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator and dampener, nothing. I finally cleaned the throttle body thoroughly (inside, outside) with carb cleaner and I have not had the issue ever since. It will probably hard to start after that, and when it does will look like you seafoamed your engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 It may be worth checking the engine coolant temp sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 I will have to try this and report back. Is it just that your pump is weak or something? You would think it wouldn't depressurize so fast yeah know? Do our cars actually have a fuel return? I think the system should stay pressurized, unless it leaks past a check valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johntriger Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 Will it start if you fully depress the accelerator while starting? I just got a chance to try this since the vehicle is at my parents house and yes! This actually does work surprisingly. Do you know why it would do this?(sorry for the late response as its holiday season and I work in retail) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johntriger Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 Scratch that I took it into town and decided to wash it off and now it wont start even with the foot to the floor method or leave key in the on position for a bit to prime it up position. I am going to give it a bit then I guess I will call AAA to get to towed back. I guess I will start looking into those parts then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 IIRC cranking it with your foot to the floor is flood-clear mode--cranks over without injecting fuel. I don't remember which model I read about this working on and I'm not sure if it applies to an R50. Assuming it does, it makes me wonder if you've got a slow injector leak that floods the intake with gas after you turn it off, making it hard to start until the gas drains past the rings. Seems like that would only impact the one cylinder it was leaking on, though, so I wouldn't lay money on it being that. Easy to pull the dipstick and see if it smells like gas, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) sounds like the temp sensor reporting the wrong temp, and the injectors responding accordingly. in the 3.3 the one you are looking for is under the intake plenum. the one on top is for the gauge. also there is a switch on the evap system that sticks open and that will cause the same symptoms. if i had to make a guess, and its only a guess since i am not there to messure the resistance of the sensor or see if the switch is working properly, i would say it is one of those 2 things. When my fuel pump was weak earlier this year it would start, and idle but if you touched the gas pedal it would die. hope you get it sorted out, and remember, don't waste a s-ton of money throwing sensors at it, everything can be tested. I highly recommend either taking it to a "good" and "fair" qualified mechanic, or testing the items yourself before replacing. If you just throw parts at it, you may end up spending more money in the end than if you would have simply taken it to a mechanic. an example is, a temp sensor reads x amount of resistance based on the temp outside. if you ride is cold and you measure the resistance at 100 ohms "for examples sake" and the air temp outside is 32F. after you warm your ride up, the resistance should be significantly different when it is 90F under the hood. A 6 dollar run of the mill multi meter can accomplish this for you. the person that suggested cleaning the throttle body up top wasn't a bad idea either. if it restricts air flow the air wont match the fuel so it wont run. very cheap and easy to do, tons of vids on utube about it, just dont dump a crapload of carb cleaner into the intake, may not be good. some people like to clean them while the vehicle is running. just be careful not to get into anything if your shroud is missing. go go gadget "throttle body cleaning" utube. =) hope i helped you out some. Pat Edited January 13, 2017 by fixinto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEPlatinumNJ4x4 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Distributor cap Same thing happend on my old 98 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEPlatinumNJ4x4 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Sorry should have read whole post I'm sorry I see you already replaced that. Could be a faulty new part, happend to me they put a 2nd new one in on the house Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffsR50 Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) Had this same issue with my 97. - vacuum leaks!! - first was the fuel tank vacuum cut-off valve. Do you get a whistle sound under the truck? This valve is supposed to close off the intake vacuum before it reaches the gas tank. Mine was shot. After replacing that valve, I also did a cheap cigar smoke test on my intake and found that I had a leak at the bottom hose of the EGR control valve. When the truck was cold, it gave enough gas to offset too much air in the intake, when she was warm the air leaks messed up the whole show. Fixed the vacuum leaks - she starts first time every time now. Just another note - my pathy really seems to love seafoam. I add a full bottle to the tank every other month or so. Edited February 6, 2017 by JeffsR50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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