Flooded engine help

[Slartibartfast]

The rings are what wrap around the piston to seal between it and the cylinder. A broken ring may have caused the grooves, but not likely the knock. How deep are the grooves?

 

Con rod bearings are what go between the crankshaft and the end of the connecting rod. Normally, the bearing slides on a thin layer of oil that fills the tiny gap between it and the crankshaft. When that gap between gets too big, the oil just piddles out, and the crank and the con rod start to beat the crap out of each other because they're loose. The more they rattle around, the more the bearing gets hogged out, and the worse the knock gets. The ECU should pick this up via the knock sensor and de-tune the motor so that you can hopefully limp it home before the rod fails. If you keep flogging it, sooner or later the rod comes loose and goes all Kool-Aid Man through your block or your oil pan.

 

Unless you're up for a challenge and the damage to the cylinder wall is slight, I would be looking for a motor.

Edited December 12, 2016 by Slartibartfast

[Charlie_Brown]

There is 3 scratches and one is pretty pronounced and can only be fixed by boring the cylinders.

 

The thing I find so odd with that is the knock sounded like it was top end rather than bottom end especially when I listened through a hose. On top of that my ECU has not picked up any codes.

 

Looking at my options however I'm kinda considering pulling an engine off pick and pull and having it hot dipped/rebuilding the block.

 

Tell me if I'm stupid in thinking this however in my mind I'll have a new engine and spent less money since all the long and short blocks I've found for sale have been close to or above 2000$

 

Not often someone messes up a block like I did

[silverton]

There is 3 scratches and one is pretty pronounced and can only be fixed by boring the cylinders.

 

The thing I find so odd with that is the knock sounded like it was top end rather than bottom end especially when I listened through a hose. On top of that my ECU has not picked up any codes.

 

Looking at my options however I'm kinda considering pulling an engine off pick and pull and having it hot dipped/rebuilding the block.

 

Tell me if I'm stupid in thinking this however in my mind I'll have a new engine and spent less money since all the long and short blocks I've found for sale have been close to or above 2000$

 

Not often someone messes up a block like I did

 

Do this. But try to grab one from a truck with obviously exterior damage, as a lot of them end up in there because of broken timing belts. I think you can use an R50 block as well, you'd want to keep your heads and injection.

 

You can confirm if a rod is bent by rotating the crank. All of the pistons should sit flush with the deck when at the top of their throw, so you can check two at a time as it goes around.