2004 R50 4x4 front hub disconnect?

[PatDes]

I just took my hud assembly apart to replace a broken wheel lug (giant pain in the ass). I noticed the hubs are fixed, so even in 2wd it's still spinning the front axles and the drive shaft. Now I'm building my rig as an overlander, as part of this I want to achieve a 1000km range. So my question is, has anyone installed locking/unlocking hubs and did you find a gain in fuel economy?

Also, any info you have about options for hubs would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks!

 

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[Slartibartfast]

Yep, common mod. I've read that some of them foul the R50 wheels though so do your research there.

[cntryboy_88]

Number of different manual hubs out there warn by far the best...I have them on my truck and love them...also this thread is terrible at telling you you post is not posted but it is...even if it says it isnt

 

 

Sent from Yeti!

[PatDes]

Haha ya I noticed it posted multiple times! Oops! I've been looking around my pathy is a 5 speed manual with the Tx10 TC, I guess the auto TCs have some serious issues with manual hubs but it looks like I'm good to go!

 

Also unrelated I recently lifted my pathy about 2 inches and ever since have experienced increased vibrations in 4wd, anyone have any thoughts on the matter? The angle on the CVs is not excessive and with the stock fixed hub any vibration from the axles would be present in 2wd too, right? Maybe T case front output shaft bearing?

 

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[TowndawgR50]

2" lift is enough to bind CVs. I had a 2 inch lift that was fine for street and mild 4x4 driving but I detonated 2 axles on separate trips from axle bind.

[fleurys]

Haha ya I noticed it posted multiple times! Oops! I've been looking around my pathy is a 5 speed manual with the Tx10 TC, I guess the auto TCs have some serious issues with manual hubs but it looks like I'm good to go!

 

Also unrelated I recently lifted my pathy about 2 inches and ever since have experienced increased vibrations in 4wd, anyone have any thoughts on the matter? The angle on the CVs is not excessive and with the stock fixed hub any vibration from the axles would be present in 2wd too, right? Maybe T case front output shaft bearing?

 

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The auto TC issue is a misinformation. It has been debunked long time ago. the atx14a TC can play nice with manual hubs as long as you do not use the auto setting..

 

as for the vibration, you could rule out (or confirm) that it is not your universal joints on your fron driveshaft... Simply remove it and have a road test... you will know rapidly if it is your half shafts or not.

 

Cheers.

[jyeager]

 

...

 

as for the vibration, you could rule out (or confirm) that it is not your universal joints on your fron driveshaft... Simply remove it and have a road test... you will know rapidly if it is your half shafts or not.

 

Cheers.

 

Well, they are CV joints, not Ujoints. By design they do not and can not introduce vibrations at different angles.

However, the removal test is still valid in helping to identify the source of vibration.

 

I would ask the OP what else changed when he lifted it? New tires and/or wheels by any chance? Or did you have a rotate and balance done at the same time?

 

And further up, someone suggested caster could be off? However, the Caster doesn't change. It's engineered in and not adjustable. So caster won't be the steering issue.

I would jump right under there and check out those rack bushings. If the bushings are great, the rack itself might be worn out.

[fleurys]

I was talking about the joints on the driveshaft...they are called Universal Joints (Ujoints)... as for the half shafts (front axles) , yes they are called cv joints (constant velocity joints).. Sorry for the mix...

[PatDes]

 

Well, they are CV joints, not Ujoints. By design they do not and can not introduce vibrations at different angles.

However, the removal test is still valid in helping to identify the source of vibration.

 

I would ask the OP what else changed when he lifted it? New tires and/or wheels by any chance? Or did you have a rotate and balance done at the same time?

 

And further up, someone suggested caster could be off? However, the Caster doesn't change. It's engineered in and not adjustable. So caster won't be the steering issue.

I would jump right under there and check out those rack bushings. If the bushings are great, the rack itself might be worn out.

I did not change anything other than springs, struts and shocks. However it was the first time I shift into 4hi at high speed in probably 6000km and my rear tires have about a 1/8th of an inch less than the fronts.

 

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[mjotrainbrain]

This thread should be helpful:

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42066-warn-hubs/

 

A few posts down XPLORx4 provides a link to the Amazon page where you can buy the Warn hubs.

[LittleFR]

I have 265/70r16's drive extremely conservatively have Warns and get a whopping 14.7 mpg with premium, regular service and no CEL.

 

My truck has a 20gallon tank and I'm thrilled to death to get 250miles. My hats off to you if you get 1000km and don't have to stop 3times to fill up.

[PatDes]

Thanks alot guys!

 

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[PatDes]

I have 265/70r16's drive extremely conservatively have Warns and get a whopping 14.7 mpg with premium, regular service and no CEL.

 

My truck has a 20gallon tank and I'm thrilled to death to get 250miles. My hats off to you if you get 1000km and don't have to stop 3times to fill up.

I've got mine on 265/70r17's, I can get over 500km (312miles) on a tank, I'm rebuilding a 3.5 for it and a 6 speed to back it, also in the process of having a new 120L fuel tank designed that'll mount under the cargo deck (where the spare tire use to be)

 

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[LittleFR]

I live 6 miles from work.... Not exactly optimum as I usually don't get OD or lockup until the engine is up to temp, halfway through my drive. My wife and I did some long road trips lately and we broke 300 miles on a tank still never got into the 16mpg range. I have an auto so it's not going to do as well as a manual (could potentially do driven properly) but I tend to play harder in anything with a clutch.

 

Still nowhere near the 620miles he wants on a 20 gallon tank. Auxiliary fuel tank would be the only way to achieve this in an R50. You could spend 10k dollars on an engine trans and gear vendors and have a very expensive R50 on 32's that sometimes breaks into the low 20mpg range.