Changing rear springs/shocks

[pathfinder1990]

I've been searching around and seen a few different methods, some easier than others.

Changing out my rear springs and shocks this week and have a few questions.

1. Are spring compressors necessary? (Installing replacement original springs) I can see how easy it would be with them, but does anyone have a write up where none were used. I will be using them if i can find a set. or wait until i have them if it is better to do so.

 

2. Also I can see a thick plastic coating on the bottom of my old springs, my new replacements do not have that, but are lightly coated in rubber/paint. I was thinking about using a layer or two of shrink wrap as in insulator, any other options.

3...is there a top and a bottom

Any other tips while i'm there. Thanks alot

[mjotrainbrain]

In regards to the spring compressor, it depends. When I took my back suspension apart to install my spacer lift, I was able to (barely) remove the old springs without a compressor. I cannot say if new springs would fit, as they would more than likely be longer than the old, saggy ones. With 2" spacers and the old spring going back in, I needed a compressor, no way around it. I would say having the compressor on hand would be useful, even if it's only needed to compress a half inch.

[Nogil79]

1. You won't need spring compressors to do the rear springs unless you are putting spacers in there as well, then it's a "maybe".

 

2. The plastic piece will actually come off your old springs & you can re-use them if desired. I think they're to prevent squeaking.

 

3. I don't remember for sure, but I don't think so.

 

Doing the rear springs and shocks is really easy, don't sweat it. Doing the front is a bit of a PITA.

[LittleFR]

Personally I could get my stock springs out with a big flat head... Safety glasses and only the rear shock removal. But no way could I get an aftermarket or fresh stock spring in without dropping the rear axel down or spring compressors... I used spring compressors.

 

I took electrical tape and put my old plastic piece on the new springs and wrapped all points that would touch. I tried to used fuel hose... It's too thick and won't jive.

 

No top and bottom on the rears I could tell. Just look at your stockers and where the end of the curly que was and lign it up with your rubber or it may squeak.

 

Whatcha your brake lines and your breather tube. Replace your shocks while your there. Wear safety glasses.

[hawairish]

1. I've never needed spring compressors for the rear, and that includes fitting lift springs and spacers. Remove tires, disconnect the shocks, support one end of axle with a jackstand (highest setting), use a jack on the other end to lower the other side of the axle. The spring will almost fall out. Be mindful of the breather hose and center brake line. Like so:

 

 

 

My sway bar end links were disconnected at the time because I was doing other work, but disconnecting them is not necessary.

 

2. Yes, re-use the plastic piece. There's a top rubber isolator that also gets re-used.

 

3. Nope, both ends are the same.

 

 

Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish

[hawairish]

One important thing about #1 that I forgot to mention is that the rear of the chassis is also supported by jack stands. That is, you need 4 jack stands and a good floor jack to do this. In the first pic, the red jack stand set is used for supporting and pivoting the axle, but there's also a silver jack stand set (the driver's side one is just visible over the floor jack) that the truck is resting on them.

 

Amended (clarified) instructions:

 

1. Lift the rear of the truck and use jack stands to support the rear chassis. There are oval-ish jack/support pads under the rear passenger doors on the unibody rail. Height of the truck depends on your jack stands...lift as high as possible, reasonable, and safe. I've used blocks to gain a few more inches to my basic 2-ton stands (it becomes especially helpful if installing lift springs and/or spacers). A proper floor jack (2.5-ton+) is capable of lifting the entire rear of the truck just by placing the jack directly under the rear diff.

 

2. With chassis supported, lift the rear axle and support both sides with jack stands on their highest setting. Position the jack stands under the lower spring perches, leaving enough room for your jack between the jackstand and axle end.

 

3. Remove the tires

 

4. Disconnect the shocks at the bottom, or remove them altogether.

 

5. Place your floor jack near the end of the axle. Lift the axle up enough to clear the jack stand, then remove the jack stand from the area.

6. Slowly lower the jack, allowing the axle to pivot on the opposite jack stand. Watch for line stretch if applicable.

 

7. As the end of the axle gets lower, the spring will decompress, and eventually loosen in the seat

 

8. When the axle is as low as reasonable, you should be able to lift the spring up to clear the lower perch, then tilt the bottom out and slide the spring down off the bump stop. (In my pic, the axle is resting on the drum, but that hasn't always been necessary if you can get the chassis supported high enough.)

 

9. Re-use the rubber spring pieces and install the new spring and/or spacers by reversing step #8.

 

10. Lift the end of the axle with the jack until axle, put the jack stand from step #5 back in place, and lower the axle onto the jack stand.

 

11. Repeat steps 5-10 on the other side of the axle.

 

12. Once both springs are in, reconnect/install the shocks, put the tires back on, and lift the truck off all 4 jack stands.

[hawairish]

Add step 8.5: If the spring doesn't seem to clear easily during removal or install, you can probably lean on the axle a little to get a little more flex from the trailing are bushings.