joserabagojr Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 I've seen multiple posts online about this problem about: "Temperature Guage Rises when Idle but fine when driving", but most of the those posts involve having 2-3 separate fans where we R50 Pathys have only one. On to the point, my temperature guage has been rising up to H recently while the car is on idle on the road. But once I start driving for a good minute, the guage goes back to the original 9:00 face. Background: The radiator mounting has been re-built under the radiator (since rust) and radiator has been flushed and refilled with new Coolant. & Fan Turns on Normally. Anyone can help a brother out? Thanks, Jose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jyeager Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 Fans turn on normally? You don't have fans that turn on. Thoughts: Low coolant. Failed fan clutch Partially clogged radiator (quite common after a coolant flush) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 I am guessing that you need to replace the fan clutch. It's not tightening up and forcing enough air through the radiator. At speed, air moving through the radiator naturally keeps it cool. To test that the fan clutch is no longer working, run the engine up to operating temp. Shut off the engine and try to rotate the fan by hand. If it spins freely more than 1/4 turn, the fan clutch is dead. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1997,pathfinder,3.3l+v6,1212051,cooling+system,radiator+fan+clutch,6812 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Sounds like a dead fan clutch. Also is there any dirt or debris in the radiator fins? That can cause issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 You might want to check the thermostats too. There's two on the VQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 air in the system can cause hotter than normal temps also. Did you bleed the air out when coolant was replaced? Make sure to have the heat on when doing so , so the coolant flows through the whole system. But sounds like fan clutch is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 I am guessing that you need to replace the fan clutch. It's not tightening up and forcing enough air through the radiator. At speed, air moving through the radiator naturally keeps it cool. To test that the fan clutch is no longer working, run the engine up to operating temp. Shut off the engine and try to rotate the fan by hand. If it spins freely more than 1/4 turn, the fan clutch is dead. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1997,pathfinder,3.3l+v6,1212051,cooling+system,radiator+fan+clutch,6812 how easy is it to replace? I've been having the same issue. so Following your test method mine spins freely with the engine off. which one would you recommend from rock auto? looked at a similar product from a Canadian parts distributor and they want over $200 for the bloody thing...check this out. http://www.autopartsway.ca/partlist.cfm?nissan/2000/pathfinder/se/3.3l-v6/allb/cooling/cooling-fan,-clutch-and-motor/engine-cooling-fan-clutch talk about northern gouging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remus92 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 They are very easy to replace. I've bought them off of rock auto before and had good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) how easy is it to replace? I've been having the same issue. so Following your test method mine spins freely with the engine off. It may spin freely on a cold engine. If it spins freely on warmed-up engine that's just been shut off, then then it's due for a replacement. The fan is attached to the clutch, which in turn is bolted to the water pump. Remove 4 10mm nuts holding the clutch to the water pump, then pull the fan and clutch assembly out of the engine bay. Remove the fan from the old clutch, then attach it to the new clutch. Reinstall the fan and clutch assembly onto the water pump, and you're done. *Note: this was the process I used on my VG33. The procedure may be slightly different on the VQ35, wherein it may be necessary to remove the fan shroud in order to get clearance to remove the fan/clutch assembly. Edited August 18, 2016 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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