Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
JohnMasters

92 XE Suddenly Running Rough

Recommended Posts

Greetings NPORA,

I am having some trouble and could use some help. Thanks in advance...

I have a 1992 XE automatic with 240,000+ miles that has been running fine and has suddenly started running very rough.

-very little power under load

-must rev high to get moving which engages orange transmission light

-rough idle but stays running
-spuddering/shuddering at 2500rpm
-gutless
-starts ok

NEW plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, fuel filter, air filter with NO improvement

EGR system was totally clogged but NO improvement after removing blockage.

Found a rusted off ground connection near the battery. Fixed that with NO improvement.

Cleaned MAF and have additional MAF ground harness installed with NO improvement

It runs with positive to battery disconnected so alternator is ok.

Timing belt is probably overdue for a change but not by much.

 

Distributor was replaced about 40,000 miles ago

NO check engine light but have NOT checked for codes.


I have engaged in some spirited driving lately. Meaning that I have "Floored it" several times over the last few weeks.

For the last few months I have noticed a slight bog/hesitation at take-off


Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Timing belt could have slipped. Check ignition timing. New distributor or used?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Distributor was new.

 

Is the best/only method to determine if the belt has slipped to remove the front cover?

 

Not sure if it matters but there is NO smoke at all from exhaust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A timing check would tell you, unless you've adjusted the distributor since the problem started. The distributor is driven off the cam, so if the crank sprocket has slipped a tooth, your timing will be way off the 15° it should be when the engine's warmed up.

 

That said, I'm not sure I'd want to run the engine long enough to warm it up if I suspected the timing belt was losing ground.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I HAVE adjusted the timing while addressing the problem and as I recall the person to install the last timing belt installed the pulley exactly opposite so timing must be taken of of cylinder #6. Ill see if it can be adjusted to the proper setting with a light this afternoon. The timing mark needs to be at the 3rd or 4th mark to the left, correct? The problem seemed to have come on overnight as opposed to during a drive.

Although I have much experience with the tps in my RX7, I dont know much about this one Also, is there an easy check for a bad coil?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... the person to install the last timing belt installed the pulley exactly opposite so timing must be taken of of cylinder #6.

 

 

That statement scares the hell out of me. Didn't think you could do such a thing.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it is keyed so it will only go on one way. Unless you separated the two pieces. Which I never understand why people do, it doesn't have anything to do with the tbelt job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I noticed not long after I bought it many years ago that i had to get underneath the truck to see the timing marks with a timing gun. I was baffled for a while until I noticed that everything seemed to line up fine when testing off of #6. I always forget about it until something like this comes up.

 

The truck has always run fine so I just figured I would correct it on the next belt replacement which I hope has not yet arrived.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well... the time may have come. Still sounds like a tooth off on the timing. Like you said, it recently happened and the pulley being off has longer history

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should be the mark in the middle, IIRC it's marked at intervals from 0° to 30° BTDC.

 

I took mine off when I did my timing belt, just because it looked like it was in the way. I marked it with a paint pen first though so it all went back like it needed to. And yeah, if it needs a timing belt anyway, might as well just plan on doing that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello and Thanks for your help so far.

After inspection of the timing belt, although it looked rather old, it appeared to be lined up correctly yet I went ahead and serviced the timing belt & water pump.

It certainly needed to be done but as I suspected the truck is still running poorly. Although I am now able to set timing from the #1 cylinder as I corrected the previous owners pulley install error.

I do not seem to be able to get the timing mark any further than the 3rd line from the right which is the same as before the timing belt install as I recall.

I pulled the engine codes and got a "55" which is "NO MALFUNCTION, of course.

With a long screwdriver to ear, I believe that all of the fuel injectors are "clicking" although one may be slower than the others.

I may swap out the distributor as I have a lifetime warranty on one that I installed several years ago.


Any further assistance would be appreciated as I am at a loss and am missing my truck! :))

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On reading, I don't think it is a timing (or belt) issue, but a sensor issue.

 

Any difference between when it runs cold (at first start) and hot?

 

Did you ever check for codes?

I recommend checking the coolant temp sensor for output (ohms hot and cold) The info is in the downloadable FSM in the pinned thread in the Garage section. 1994 is the first year, but is the same other than dash, trim and a few oddities.

O2 sensor output. 0-1V IIRC, and it should vary. if it is flatline, it is bad.

TPS output?

 

Good place to start, so let us know.

 

B

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you and yes... The only code that I am getting is 55 which is "NO MALFUNCTION"... I will get busy on checking the sensors and I will warm it up and check the difference between cold and warmed up.


Edited by JohnMasters

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a test mode on the ECU that lets you check O2 sensor operation (number of flashes in a period of time).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, back to the truck!...

the O2 sensor test seems to show no issues.

When I kink the fuel return line at the passenger side valve cover the idle increases and appears to smooth out.

Does this suggest a FUEL PUMP issue?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you checked the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the back of the intake manifold. If you look near where the cut out for the number 6 spark plug is, you'll see it. Mine fell off and caused the truck to run rough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ohm your injectors. They have to be under 14ohms. Also check your egr function. It could be the dist. Pull the cap, rotor and base plate and check for metal

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ADAMZAN: I will recheck the little vacuum line on the back of the manifold near #6 but, as I just did the plugs, and am very aware of that little hose, Im pretty sure its good.

BYOB: I did remove and clean the EGR valve and bypass and although it was TOTALLY clogged with carbon , it made no difference.


Do these older Pathfinders have a fuel pressure test valve? I dont seem to find one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, you'll need to use a T with some extra hose and clamps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update...

There is no fuel in the FPR line and the truck runs even MORE noticeably worse when the line is removed so I dont think that its the FPR.

The fuel pressure checks out just fine with a fuel pressure gauge and the fuel pump can be heard at work when turning the key to the "on" position and it cranks up fine so I dont think its the fuel pump.

Injectors would seem to be the next thing to look at and my symptoms are very similar to those who have discovered a bad/clogged injector. Poor acceleration, loss of power under load. shaking/shuddering around 2000-2500 rpm. gutless.

I will ohm the injectors and check prices...

Any opinions regarding injectors and has anyone done the upper intake modification that allows for easier injector replacement

Good Deal?... https://www.autopartskart.com/nissan-pathfinder-1995/fuel-injector.html?partno=g584218107&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=nissan&prodid=67644719956224g584218107&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgJq-BRCFqcLW8_DU9agBEiQAz8Koh38RCld2LSyUEdilQS8U287ccmJ91zMjKLCD8W-lzjgaArDR8P8HAQ

Edited by JohnMasters

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had this happen twice to my 94 pathfinder and in both cases it was a failed fuel injector. I made a post about it awhile back here (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38258-replaced-timing-belt-now-running-rough/?do=findComment&comment=723973)

 

I ended up just replacing all of them at that point as I got tired of removing the intake plenum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you pulled the spark plugs yet? So often in these cases it ends up being a burnt or partially disconnected plug wire or a dirty or misfiring plug. I just sold a Ranger with this very same problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another easy diag. The connector for the injectors is on the rt valve cover. Un plug it and ohm the injectors. New is around 11 ohms-failure start around 14 ohms

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, Like most of you, I now believe that it is an injector...

I was going to ohm the injectors but attempted to remove #1 injector first just to take a look. I couldn't get that sucker out of there and thought that I would break something trying, so...

I contacted a new Nissan Dealership that was just built a few miles away. They said they normally charged $120 for a diagnosis but would do mine for $85. They called back a few days later reporting that #3 injector appeared to be bad but they had to remove the UIM to do the diagnosis. He said the Injector would be $170 and the job would be 5 hours X $120 an hour. OUCH!! I asked if he would allow for me to bring in my own parts and/or send the injectors out to be cleaned to which he was agreeable. We also agreed that they could do all 6 injectors in 5 hours and they agreed to lower their hourly rate to $100.

They handed me over the entire fuel rail so that I could handle the injector cleaning(www.injectorrx.com) which is also a bonus because I can replace the FPR at the same time for no additional labor.

So, $500 total plus the Injector cleaning. I would normally be repulsed by spending that kind of money on such a job but it should be back on the road soon...

HERE IS THE BIG CATCH...

I have been searching for another vehicle as I had almost given up hope and yesterday I pulled the trigger on a very clean 2003 Xterra SE SC. So, the Pathfinder may possibly get sold once the Xterra arrives. I HOPE I LIKE IT!!! :)))

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...