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AKdraws

I need help with rebuilding my LSD

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The rear end in my rig is starting to squeak, almost as if a bearing is going out. So I am going to rebuild it completely but idk what to get or where i should get it from. Rockauto is fine and dandy but i want to make sure i get everything. I've looked around on the forum a bit but i cant seem to find anything, or i just dont know what i need to look for..LOL

 

Any advice is appreciated! Thank you for your time.

Edited by AKdraws

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It would be the first worn out rear end in one of these I've heard of. More likely the brakes are hung up.

 

If you can't find aftermarket parts, you could try factorynissanparts.com. If you want an exploded diagram of the rear end, the PD section of the '94 or '95 service manual should show you what you're working with and how it all goes back together again.

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Like Slartibartfast hinted at, try checking the brakes or other components in case there are other components needing replacement or giving a false noise...wheel bearings, u-joints, brakes, etc.

 

If you're just wanting to rebuild the LSD, you can find the part numbers in the FSM or pretty much any of the several Nissan parts websites out there (nissanpartsdeal.com has become my new favorite reference, but I still tend to buy from courtesyparts.com...but pretty much the same prices). The FSM also provides all of the setup instructions, many of which you won't have to do if you're just changing carrier internals. However, be sure to check that everything is in-spec before fully disassembling the carrier...that way you have some sort of reference point, or can identify any other parts needing replacement.

 

Specifically for the LSD internals, that catch about rebuilding it is that it helps to know in advance what parts are worn...which basically means having it apart while you wait for parts. New friction plates and discs run about $30-$35 each, and your diff has a lot of them. It's not practical to replace them all, and FSM specs wear and warp limits. If you just want to freshen it up, you can just buy a couple of new discs and plates. If you want to increase the break away torque, you can swap out any thinner discs/plates with thicker ones (nominal size is 1.5mm, but 1.4mm and 1.6mm are available for adjustment pieces). Again, see the FSM for measuring the clutch pack thicknesses.

 

Also consider these parts:

 

carrier bearings

inner oil seals (for axle shaft; these install in the axle tube at the ends)

LSD-safe gear oil

u-joints (since you'll have the driveshaft down)

 

You'll also need to rig up a tool for side-bearing adjustment. Rugged Rocks sells one, but I just made my own. You'll also need a dial indicator and magnetic base to check backlash and run-out...hit up your local Harbor Freight.

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Wow! Thank you very much for all the information and sorry for the late reply.

 

Ok, so if completley rebuilding the rear end may not be nessecary, i will just to the seals for now because i pulled off the drums and only 1 side is leaking for the seals. Do you reccomend doing the bearings and u-joints at the same time?

 

 

Like Slartibartfast hinted at, try checking the brakes or other components in case there are other components needing replacement or giving a false noise...wheel bearings, u-joints, brakes, etc.

 

If you're just wanting to rebuild the LSD, you can find the part numbers in the FSM or pretty much any of the several Nissan parts websites out there (nissanpartsdeal.com has become my new favorite reference, but I still tend to buy from courtesyparts.com...but pretty much the same prices). The FSM also provides all of the setup instructions, many of which you won't have to do if you're just changing carrier internals. However, be sure to check that everything is in-spec before fully disassembling the carrier...that way you have some sort of reference point, or can identify any other parts needing replacement.

 

Specifically for the LSD internals, that catch about rebuilding it is that it helps to know in advance what parts are worn...which basically means having it apart while you wait for parts. New friction plates and discs run about $30-$35 each, and your diff has a lot of them. It's not practical to replace them all, and FSM specs wear and warp limits. If you just want to freshen it up, you can just buy a couple of new discs and plates. If you want to increase the break away torque, you can swap out any thinner discs/plates with thicker ones (nominal size is 1.5mm, but 1.4mm and 1.6mm are available for adjustment pieces). Again, see the FSM for measuring the clutch pack thicknesses.

 

Also consider these parts:

 

carrier bearings

inner oil seals (for axle shaft; these install in the axle tube at the ends)

LSD-safe gear oil

u-joints (since you'll have the driveshaft down)

 

You'll also need to rig up a tool for side-bearing adjustment. Rugged Rocks sells one, but I just made my own. You'll also need a dial indicator and magnetic base to check backlash and run-out...hit up your local Harbor Freight.

 

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It is the brakes. For 1 i need to do the brake booster and 2 i pulled the drums off and there is fluid leaking from the seals, which is making the shoes swell a little and rub every now and then..shes got a few miles and it makes sense LOL but oh well, stuff falls apart, keep on fixin it.

 

 

It would be the first worn out rear end in one of these I've heard of. More likely the brakes are hung up.

 

If you can't find aftermarket parts, you could try factorynissanparts.com. If you want an exploded diagram of the rear end, the PD section of the '94 or '95 service manual should show you what you're working with and how it all goes back together again.

 

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That's a good outcome...brakes are easy, and changing that seal is cheap. Best to do them together since, well, you gotta disconnect the brakes lines and cables to replace that seal. May as well do both, too. RA sells the seals for about a $1/ea.

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Awesome thanks. Do you know anything about a disc brake conversion in the rear? considering converting since drums are a headache...

That's a good outcome...brakes are easy, and changing that seal is cheap. Best to do them together since, well, you gotta disconnect the brakes lines and cables to replace that seal. May as well do both, too. RA sells the seals for about a $1/ea.

 

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For yours, all you need is the complete axle shaft assemblies (shaft, brakes, etc.) pulled directly from the donor, and the hard brake lines from the axle. You may also want the master cyclinder on that donor since it has a higher split point than the drum-brake version. It's a bolt-on swap from what I understand.

 

For R50 owners, they'll need to break down the axle shafts, swap the disc brake backing plate to their axles, and modify the parking brake cable a little. I have this particular project lined up on mine, with all the parts ready to go. Still deciding on which axle shafts to use, though, since that'll dictate which locker setup I go with.

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No sure why you would do that on an r50. The drums are huge and work well. On a wd21 sure, the drums are smaller, and there is a noticeable difference in braking power. Source; have had many Nissan's over the years.

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I fail to see the advantage. The disk brakes are not that spectacular on a WD21. (edited)

Edited by Precise1
insult

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I'm doing it because the parts were given to me, the amount of work required to document the process is trivial to me, and because others have been asking me for info about them. Why should you care what anyone else does, and who the fskc do you think you are telling anyone else what to do or not do, or calling me a douchebag? You shared your opinion, I acknowledged it, so *&^! off instead of calling people names.

Edited by Precise1
lost context

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I fail to see the advantage. The disk brakes are not that spectacular on a WD21. (edited)

Adam, that was uncalled for and uncool. You are a trusted member here and know better than that.

I expect better from you; Canadians are supposed to be nice, remember?

 

hawairish, I cleaned up some posts because after I edited adamzan's post, the context was lost.

Sorry for the BS.

 

B

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No problem, thanks for stepping in, B.

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For yours, all you need is the complete axle shaft assemblies (shaft, brakes, etc.) pulled directly from the donor, and the hard brake lines from the axle. You may also want the master cyclinder on that donor since it has a higher split point than the drum-brake version. It's a bolt-on swap from what I understand.

 

For R50 owners, they'll need to break down the axle shafts, swap the disc brake backing plate to their axles, and modify the parking brake cable a little. I have this particular project lined up on mine, with all the parts ready to go. Still deciding on which axle shafts to use, though, since that'll dictate which locker setup I go with.

 

What is a good donor? were there any wd21s with disc brake? Also, will any other discs and setup work from another jeep-type 4wheeler like x-terra or something?

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That's right, 1987-1995 WD21s had them. I thought it was limited to SE models, but I think I've seen otherwise on some of my parts cross-referencing. They're out there though...just picked up a 2nd set of them last week in NorCal.

 

Other than those WD21s (and Patrols overseas), Nissan didn't regularly put rear discs onto their trucks and SUVs until after 2005. However, at that time they also changed the rear axles on nearly all their models. If there's any hope of using discs from those vehicles, it'd only be from the earlier N50 Xterra that had the C200...and the stars would really have to align for that project, since the setups are a bit different.

 

Anything beyond that, though, is a totally custom endeavor, but I've seen a few clever ways to do it. However, in nearly all of those setups I've seen, the parking brake has been the iffy part.

 

On the flip side, WD21 disc brakes are essentially bolt-on, replacement parts are inexpensive, and there are some 'performance' components available that simply don't exist for drum brakes. For the WD21, it sounds like a confirmed improvement.

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That's right, 1987-1995 WD21s had them. I thought it was limited to SE models, but I think I've seen otherwise on some of my parts cross-referencing. They're out there though...just picked up a 2nd set of them last week in NorCal.

 

Other than those WD21s (and Patrols overseas), Nissan didn't regularly put rear discs onto their trucks and SUVs until after 2005. However, at that time they also changed the rear axles on nearly all their models. If there's any hope of using discs from those vehicles, it'd only be from the earlier N50 Xterra that had the C200...and the stars would really have to align for that project, since the setups are a bit different.

 

Anything beyond that, though, is a totally custom endeavor, but I've seen a few clever ways to do it. However, in nearly all of those setups I've seen, the parking brake has been the iffy part.

 

On the flip side, WD21 disc brakes are essentially bolt-on, replacement parts are inexpensive, and there are some 'performance' components available that simply don't exist for drum brakes. For the WD21, it sounds like a confirmed improvement.

 

Ok awesome. That being said, I just picked up a 94 se and it has disc brakes! I originally got it for the booster and other little things but i saw the brakes and remembered this thread! So if the wd21 bolts right up, thats perfect, but another question, is it an issue if the rear in my Rig is LSD, and the donor one is not? I would assume not since i would be taking the axles and brakes but just making sure im not assuming wrong.

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Ok awesome. That being said, I just picked up a 94 se and it has disc brakes! I originally got it for the booster and other little things but i saw the brakes and remembered this thread! So if the wd21 bolts right up, thats perfect, but another question, is it an issue if the rear in my Rig is LSD, and the donor one is not? I would assume not since i would be taking the axles and brakes but just making sure im not assuming wrong.

 

In your case, since you're going from WD21 to WD21 (right?), I think it's much much easier. You should only need to pull the entire axle shaft/brake assemblies and the hard brake lines from the donor, and it's a straight swap; no further disassembly. I'm certain there are a couple other write-ups for this. Someone else will need to confirm, but I think the only other notable was something about a thrust block in the carrier being needed for drums, removed for discs...can't remember if that was for open or LSD diffs, though. The braking specs between R50 and WD21 drum models.

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In your case, since you're going from WD21 to WD21 (right?), I think it's much much easier. You should only need to pull the entire axle shaft/brake assemblies and the hard brake lines from the donor, and it's a straight swap; no further disassembly. I'm certain there are a couple other write-ups for this. Someone else will need to confirm, but I think the only other notable was something about a thrust block in the carrier being needed for drums, removed for discs...can't remember if that was for open or LSD diffs, though. The braking specs between R50 and WD21 drum models.

 

Yes it is going from WD21 to WD21. A 94 to a 92. Ok, i will have to do some searching to find out if I need that thrust block.

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