Snowboarder12345 Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Bumpers and lights perhaps? Or if you are looking more towards off road performance a lokka would probably be a decent purchase seeing as you already have the LSD. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Lokka for sure. Biggest bang for the buck. Just ran mine through the first weekend of trails and the truck is exponentially more capable with it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted November 17, 2016 Author Share Posted November 17, 2016 So a Lokka would be awesome, but the issue is that I don't have manual hubs yet, and I can't afford both right now. I'm kind of tempted to do some supporting mods, like manual hubs, so I can do more substantial mods in the spring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Manual hubs are a really good investment as well. Better MPG, less wear on CV's, lighter steering feel and allows you to run a Lokka later. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 Short update... The other day I lost control around a corner (luckily going slowly) and tapped a tree. There's some damage on the passenger's side front end but I have most of the parts I need sitting in the basement from the junkyard except for a headlight and a bumper cover. I'll post pics once I get a chance to install it all. I'm just going to leave the bumper damaged for now, as hopefully it will motivate me to upgrade it and as for the headlight, wow they're expensive!!! So yeah, that's staying damaged until I find one in a junkyard (it still operates, don't worry). The fender is also gold, but that will have to do until I can have it painted and pinstriped in the spring. Anyway, this kind of ruined my timeline for getting some 32's and new wheels, so my new goal is to have that done by the time I go on spring break. Also, I'm having a real hard time finding anything that lays to rest the issue with manual hubs on R50's with Auto 4wd. The switch on mine has the options 2wd, Auto, 4Hi, and 4Lo. It sounds like I may not be able to use manual hubs due to the front half of the drivetrain needing to be engaged to do something involving a pump and the transfer case? I don't use 'auto' mode ever, so the concern of accidentally using it with the hubs unlocked doesn't apply to me, but I am concerned about this pump issue. If it's not 100% sure to be safe for me to use manual hubs on my Q I won't , but I would like to, as my winter mileage has set in at a nice 12mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remus92 Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 As long as they never go into auto you will be ok. Have you checked eBay fo rthe headlight. Occasionally you can find good deals. You just have to wait and wade through a bunch of garbage posts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 Short update... The other day I lost control around a corner (luckily going slowly) and tapped a tree. There's some damage on the passenger's side front end but I have most of the parts I need sitting in the basement from the junkyard except for a headlight and a bumper cover. I'll post pics once I get a chance to install it all. I'm just going to leave the bumper damaged for now, as hopefully it will motivate me to upgrade it and as for the headlight, wow they're expensive!!! So yeah, that's staying damaged until I find one in a junkyard (it still operates, don't worry). The fender is also gold, but that will have to do until I can have it painted and pinstriped in the spring. Anyway, this kind of ruined my timeline for getting some 32's and new wheels, so my new goal is to have that done by the time I go on spring break. Also, I'm having a real hard time finding anything that lays to rest the issue with manual hubs on R50's with Auto 4wd. The switch on mine has the options 2wd, Auto, 4Hi, and 4Lo. It sounds like I may not be able to use manual hubs due to the front half of the drivetrain needing to be engaged to do something involving a pump and the transfer case? I don't use 'auto' mode ever, so the concern of accidentally using it with the hubs unlocked doesn't apply to me, but I am concerned about this pump issue. If it's not 100% sure to be safe for me to use manual hubs on my Q I won't , but I would like to, as my winter mileage has set in at a nice 12mpg. The issue comes from the auto mode. When your hubs are unlocked, you cannot leave it on auto because of the way the transfer case works. Since it is a shift on the fly type, you can imagine what kind of carnage it would do if the transfer case was to engage the front while nothing is turning in front and that the rear is rolling at 50mph... That's it really... The hype came from the fact that at one point I assumed the mechanical oil pump for the transfer case was being activated by the rotation of the front driveshaft... It was finally proven that it is from the rotation of the rear (main) driveshaft..So there is no problem between the transfer case and manual hubs... simply have to use it with either 2wd unlocked and 4wd when locked....no more auto... Here's the post that started it all : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25855-locking-hub-install-with-pictures/?p=475352 then a nissan mechanic (morpheus) put that assumption to rest here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25855-locking-hub-install-with-pictures/?p=475399 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 The hype came from the fact that at one point I assumed the mechanical oil pump for the transfer case was being activated by the rotation of the front driveshaft... It was finally proven that it is from the rotation of the rear (main) driveshaft..So there is no problem between the transfer case and manual hubs... simply have to use it with either 2wd unlocked and 4wd when locked....no more auto... Here's the post that started it all : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25855-locking-hub-install-with-pictures/?p=475352 then a nissan mechanic (morpheus) put that assumption to rest here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25855-locking-hub-install-with-pictures/?p=475399 Thank you, that's exactly what caused my confusion, thank you for clearing that up! That is excellent news, hopefully I can order the Mile Marker hubs soon then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 I hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year! Michigan has strange weather, so for one day over the holiday week it was about 50oF! I took advantage of this weather to do the necessary bodywork to my QX4. I also met with a guy who runs a local 4x4 fabrication shop and got a quote for a front winch bumper. Looks like it will be about $500 for tube and $7-800 for plate. While there I took a look at some of the projects he was working on, and I feel very comfortable with his workmanship. Being a poor kid, I'm going to be doing the tube bumper once I have the cash, hopefully by February. Anyways, this is what the damage looked like before I had the chance to fix anything. The picture doesn't show it very well, but the fender was too bent to reasonably restore, headlight is damaged (but still operates, and is still on the vehicle), bumper was cracked, crash bar bent, and windshield washer reservoir shattered. This is what it looked like at the halfway point in the operation, when it was more disassembled than I have ever seen it! Kind of scary, but cool as well. And this is the finished product. Not as good looking as it was a month ago obviously, but I'm sure that by the time I have everything complete here it will be better than ever. It is currently complete with fog lights zip-tied to the crash bar! I hadn't planned on doing this, but it turns out the turn signals are integrated into the fogs, so that's something else to take into consideration for the winch bumper. On the passenger's side we obviously have the windshield washer reservoir, but what's the tubey thing on the driver's side? I though I had read on here at one point that it was part of the air intake system, but my dad thinks it is something do with the engine (can't remember what he said exactly). In either case, is it something I can relocate/remove, or will I need to plan on some kind of protective plating around it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowboarder12345 Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 It is the air intake, and it holds the air temp sensor. If you remove it you will have to run some tubing to relocate the air intake inside the engine compartment at the very least, if not do a full snorkel. It's totally worth doing though if you ever plan on messing around in water, or if you ditch the stock bumper. Glad to see you fixed everything though, it looks so sad and droopy in that first pic haha. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 It is the air intake, and it holds the air temp sensor. If you remove it you will have to run some tubing to relocate the air intake inside the engine compartment at the very least, if not do a full snorkel. It's totally worth doing though if you ever plan on messing around in water, or if you ditch the stock bumper. Glad to see you fixed everything though, it looks so sad and droopy in that first pic haha. Thanks! That's what I thought, but I figured it was worth asking before inadvertently doing something stupid! A full snorkel would be great, but since this is such a clean truck I'd like to keep the snorkel nice and clean as well (as in no PVC; the look works on some rigs, but I don't think it would work on mine), but I'll ask the fab guy when I go in for the bumper what options he can offer. Michigan trails have three things; snow, mud, and sand. So yeah, snorkel sure would be good. And I agree, it looked so sad! Normally the rectangular headlights on the QX4 look nice and aggressive, so it devastated me every time I looked at it, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 (edited) Can't believe I forgot this, but I got a CB too! It's a Uniden with a Firestik antenna. For now it's plugged into the cigarette lighter; I'll hardwire it when it isn't negative-cold degrees out. (Don't mind the spray bottle, it may or may not have been my windshield washer tool for a while (quick washes at stop lights got interesting looks)) I'm also pretty happy with how the back-window sticker collection is going (more off-roady ones on other half of window, not in pic). Just added a thin blue line sticker last weekend. Edited January 5, 2017 by mjotrainbrain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Good news! (In James May's voice) Unfortunately it's not the Dacia Sandero, but this is better; I finally have a date when my truck will be going in for the front winch bumper to be fabbed; Feb. 27 - Mar. 3. Right now I'm 99% sure I'm going to go with a tube design to save weight, but may add panels onto it to give it a cleaner look, I'm not decided yet. I'm also planning on running generic trailer lights for turn signals and will save the fog light wiring as a clean and easy wiring job for some LED pods later. I think the suspension will do OK with just the weight of my bumper (based upon highly scientific tests where I had people stand on the crash bar and said 'yeah, that's not too bad' ), but I'm confident I will need to do something when I add a winch. I don't want to go really huge with a lift but I want more than 2 inches, so I'm torn between two options: 1) AC coils and 1 inch spacers: CV's will operate within 'safe' operating range technically (not binding), but will probably wear out fairly quickly, even with manual hubs just from offroad use. Should give a total of 3 inches of lift and the suspension will handle the load well. 2) 4" SFD: Suspension will still droop a little, but I figure even if it sags an inch that will be 3 inches of lift in the front, which will go well with my 3.5 inches in the back. Ideally I'd like to do AC coils and an SFD, but this is my DD and it gets bad enough gas mileage as it is, lol. What do you guys suggest? I know neither idea is ideal...I also would prefer to do a 4" SFD as opposed to 2" or something combined with coils, as I like the fact that Steve has a skidplate available for the 4 inch, and measurements for steering extension parts are readily available. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tristan1035 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Good news! (In James May's voice) Unfortunately it's not the Dacia Sandero, but this is better; I finally have a date when my truck will be going in for the front winch bumper to be fabbed; Feb. 27 - Mar. 3. Right now I'm 99% sure I'm going to go with a tube design to save weight, but may add panels onto it to give it a cleaner look, I'm not decided yet. I'm also planning on running generic trailer lights for turn signals and will save the fog light wiring as a clean and easy wiring job for some LED pods later. I think the suspension will do OK with just the weight of my bumper (based upon highly scientific tests where I had people stand on the crash bar and said 'yeah, that's not too bad' ), but I'm confident I will need to do something when I add a winch. I don't want to go really huge with a lift but I want more than 2 inches, so I'm torn between two options: 1) AC coils and 1 inch spacers: CV's will operate within 'safe' operating range technically (not binding), but will probably wear out fairly quickly, even with manual hubs just from offroad use. Should give a total of 3 inches of lift and the suspension will handle the load well. 2) 4" SFD: Suspension will still droop a little, but I figure even if it sags an inch that will be 3 inches of lift in the front, which will go well with my 3.5 inches in the back. Ideally I'd like to do AC coils and an SFD, but this is my DD and it gets bad enough gas mileage as it is, lol. What do you guys suggest? I know neither idea is ideal...I also would prefer to do a 4" SFD as opposed to 2" or something combined with coils, as I like the fact that Steve has a skidplate available for the 4 inch, and measurements for steering extension parts are readily available. I feel like SFD is a bit more future proof, especially if you plan on a rear bumper and some drawers in the trunk, it also allows you to go AC in future if you so desire for a bit more lift after all the weight. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 I feel like SFD is a bit more future proof, especially if you plan on a rear bumper and some drawers in the trunk, it also allows you to go AC in future if you so desire for a bit more lift after all the weight. Yeah...I'd love to go real big, especially considering most of the Jeeps I wheel with have 35's, so I'm thinking I'll probably go with the SFD. My concern is, if I don't do AC right away as well (which I don't want to; 6" is a little too much for now), then the diff will be pretty low, and that does concern me... I might end up having to apply the 'go big or go home' theory here, do you think 33's would look too little on a 6" lift? I think CDN_S4 had that setup at one point, I'll have to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowboarder12345 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Just have to actually get your hands on an SFD, easier said than done these days it seems. Unless you get your guy some plans and have him fab one up for you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Unless you get your guy some plans and have him fab one up for you. That's what I'm planning, using the plans found here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31584-my-pathy-project-lifting/ Even if I could buy one, the fab is so simple I think my guy could make the components for a lot less than the $400 they usually sell for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 I believe in this pic CDN had 33" tires and a 6" lift, doesn't look too bad IMO....how would road manners be? This has to be a DD, only has the 4.363 gears (and I'm not interested in re-gearing right now), and I like to cruise at 80, but I'm willing to compromise on that last one. I assume with that much rear lift getting the sway links to reach just isn't going to happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowboarder12345 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 33's wouldn't look bad at all imo, you probably wouldn't even have to trim the fenders. Does your rig have the 3.5 or the 3.3? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 3.5, it's a 2002 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowboarder12345 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 You should be fine then I'm guessing, your mileage may drop a little but I wouldn't expect that you'll have power issues, unlike me lol 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 So I found these coils: http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981313-pathfinder-heavy-duty-front-coils.html Would they be the same as stock in terms of ride height with the rated load on them? It says they give 1/2" - 3/4" of lift over stock, but I assume that's the measurement without the rated 110-220 lbs applied? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 So I found these coils: http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981313-pathfinder-heavy-duty-front-coils.html Would they be the same as stock in terms of ride height with the rated load on them? It says they give 1/2" - 3/4" of lift over stock, but I assume that's the measurement without the rated 110-220 lbs applied? Those are the OME HD coils. You'll have to ask AC why they don't advertise them, and many other parts, as such. Breaking down their part numbers... SPAME928...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2928 is their heavy-duty spring. SPOME923...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2923 is their medium-duty spring. SPOME921...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2921 is their light-duty spring. All 3 springs have the same spring rate (200 lbs/in), just different free lengths. See here. The $167 they charge it almost exactly what everyone else sells OME springs for, but a few places offer free shipping. The $180 spring is the 2" AC spring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 In that case, sounds like those are the springs for me! Considering I will have so much weight on the front end, would it be OK to keep both spacers in the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Long time no update! The wait was well worth it, because I now present to you, my new bumper!!! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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