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1995 Pathy VG30E - Oil Pump?


Zed
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What I don't understand is that you have two of those things essentially. The one end folds in on itself so you can insert it in to the stripped drain plug hole, and then the other end has a rubber plug with a handle to be able to screw it tight. I've needed to use one before unfortunately.

 

Did your truck have a proper drain plug in it, or did it have one of those things pictured? Seems to me like some janky work was done to the truck at some point :/

 

So the one is missing the plug, and the other one is missing the stud and plug.

Edited by silverton
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The truck definitely had a proper drain plug in it. Those were the parts I found in the oil pan when I pulled it, and I have confirmed that at least one of those pieces got sucked into the oil pump.

 

I've found a VG30e engine in Portland. The guy had it running on the prior vehicle, and he swears by it's performance. He's willing to do the swap and give me the engine (w/ 160K) for $900. I think that's fair. I asked around town, and nobody wants to do the swap, because all the acessories are already on the engine and I already pulled the differential and oil pan. This has a working A/C compressor (mine is shot), and a new Sachs clutch (which I think I needed in due time). Seems like a win-win, and I will take the original engine and try to resolve the metal/ crank issue off the truck and try to sell it.

 

That's what I got at the moment. I'm a bit hesitant to pull the bearing caps, and feel there is little more I can do with this engine.

 

Tough luck, for sure, but hopefully I can get this thing back on its way.

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$900 and he's doing the swap for you?? SOLD!

 

Oh wait, you already did the hard part. Pulling the front diff. At any rate, $900 still sounds like a steal to me. See if you can hear it run first though.

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Yeah, it's all set.

 

Guy said he heard it run on the original Pathy, said it sounded great and did a full compression check. Clutch was bad. Vehicle is still there - guess he's selling for parts.

 

All the engine shops in town turned me down. Said there was no money in it for them because all the external accessories (new clutch/A/C comp/timing belt/tensioner/belts/oil seal/etc) were already on the engine (where they make their bread). With the labor chopped out of the diff and oil pan - they all said no way.

 

So, sounds legit. I've been talking with him about it since this happened. He was hesitant to get into pulling the diff and oil pan. That job is already done!

 

Hey, thanks for everyone that helped me out along the way. Learned alot about this thing.

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Those are use to hang large pictures in frames on yer house walls..... you punch a hole through the drywall stuff the thing folded up into the hole and use the threaded part to attach a large picture hanger from..... which is why you have two of them in your oil pan.

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Hey that's really clever SW!

 

I'm glad you feel so compelled to make light of someone elses auto hardships.

 

I've been working on this problem for weeks, and most of the members have been really helpful.

Your comments....not so much.

 

FYI. I just swapped out my engine and back on the road.

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Hey that's really clever SW!

 

I'm glad you feel so compelled to make light of someone elses auto hardships.

 

I've been working on this problem for weeks, and most of the members have been really helpful.

Your comments....not so much.

 

FYI. I just swapped out my engine and back on the road.

 

Dang, you're already back on the road?? My poor subaru has only been mobile two weeks out of the last 16 months.

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Yeah, after three plus weeks of pulling this thing apart, it's all back together and running well.

 

The swap went pretty flawlessly - we did it in 10 hours.

 

Getting the differential back in was a major PITA by myself (had to unattach the crossmember), but managed somehow.

 

So, now I've also got a new Sachs clutch and throw-out bearing, an A/C pump that works(!), a completely new front suspension (Master Chassis parts - ball joints, tie rods; Energy Suspension - sway bar and strut rod bushings; aftermarket center link), new CV axles, and trimmed my brake rotors with new ceramic pads. I'm getting an alignment done tomorrow.

 

So, although this freak incident caused alot of pain, aggravation, and dinero - it all worked out in the end.

 

I can honestly say I couldn't have done it without the input from the members on here. Thanks all!

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oh, forgot about the new KYB-GR-2 shocks and POR-15 treatment to the frame!

 

Of course, all of this means nothing if some moron dropped an oil drain plug repair tool in this oil pan.

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Nice job. It took me a year to complete my motor swap, on a pathy I bought for 500 bucks...

 

For the KYB shocks, I found them way to bouncy, I installed a set on my friend's 95 and it feels worse than the stock shocks I took off.

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Yeah, some crappy luck with the pickup tube hole and metal pieces in destroying the oil pump

...and some good luck finding a motor and an installer for a very reasonable price. It hurt the pocket book, but I'm back on the road.

 

I had most of the parts for the front suspension and just decided to do the whole thing once I considered the swap. The tension rod bushings were much easier than I thought they would be, but the Energy Suspension sway bar bushings were a PITA. They are longer than stock and trying to compress those suckers to get the nut on the bolt was a challenge.

 

As for the KYB's, not TOO bouncy, but yes, not the tightest ride. Considering the shocks I pulled were the original Nissan shocks that came with the car (totally shot), the ride is night and day. So, I can certainly deal with the sedan-like ride.

 

The car no longer drifts, and there is little or no play on the wheel. That was a big problem for me coming across the country - drifting into the shoulder after looking away for a few seconds.

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