hawairish Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) A few people have asked me about this recently. As you probably read from this thread, KrF is getting out of it and plans to produce only a few more SFDs. I don't know how they'll share that info if you don't buy their kit, but I'll tell you what I know so we're all on the same page. BTW, I obtained this info by pulling my own steering apart and doing my own research, so hopefully no one thinks I'm providing anything proprietary here. The company that manufactures the link is Woodward Steering in Wyoming, US. These guys aren't no-names in the industry. You'll need to call them to order the link. Don't be surprised if you talk to a nice lady and she just writes down your order and payment info. Their online catalog and pricing is outdated, but still is worth reading for some technical info, like how to clock the u-joints, and the proper operating angles. The assembled steering link is two u-joints and a short length of splined shaft. You order it in three separate parts: 1x UA201113 (upper u-joint, ~$70 USD)1x UA201108 (lower u-joint, ~$70 USD)1x "Custom UADS" (splined shaft, ~$12 USD) Shipping has been about $15-$20 for me. Since I don't run a 4" SFD, I need someone with the KrF SFD to confirm the shaft length. I estimate it at being 5.875" (5-7/8", or about 150mm). To confirm the length, measure the distance between the set screws on the joints halves that hold the splined shaft, then add 1" (this represents the additional .5" on each end of the shaft beyond the set-screw groove). Don't measure the total finished length. When you order the "Custom UADS", provide them the shaft length (not the assembled link length) and specify that they put set screw grooves on both ends 1/2" in (by default, it's only on one and you machine it to your liking). For a 3" SFD, I'm using a link with a finished length of 5". One thing to keep in mind is that, because the steering rack gets rotated, it affects the installed length of the link by upwards of 1/4" or more. You'll need to be mindful of the operating angles mentioned in the PDF I linked earlier so that it doesn't bind. As you can also correlate in the PDF, the upper splined shaft coming off our steering pivot box is 28-spline x .570". The lower spline on the steering rack is 36-spline x .688". I found that the u-joint ends for these splines needed a very light sanding with high grit emory paper to fit, because the machining on the u-joints is very clean. A 1/8" hex bit is used for set screws. I also used medium Loctite on the screws after confirming that the steering wheel is centered up (hint: take it for a test drive first). If you find that your steering wheel is off center, you need to re-index the link at top, bottom, or both u-joints. Indexing at the top joint will move it ~13° in either direction per spline, and 10° at the bottom. You may need to compound those to get the correct angle; i.e., if you're off 3°, you need to rotate the bottom joint by one spline in one direction, and the top joint by one spline in the opposite direction (13° - 10° = 3°). The direction of rotation depends which way your steering wheel is off center. Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh.NolimitsmotorsportsTX Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Thanks so much for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 No problem. And for those wanting a 2.5" SFD, I used a shaft with a 4.5" finished length. However, I should note that the amount of lift is not linear with the increase in shaft length (because of the angle of the link at different SFD heights), but it's pretty close. Again, rotating the steering rack makes up for it a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) Adding a note from Snowboarder12345 that he used a shaft length of 5.75" for a 4" SFD. Not sure what happened to my image link, but here it is again: Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 1 - UA201113 UJT .750-20 X .570-28 - 86.19U$ 1 - UA201108 UJT .688-34/36 X .750-20 - 86.19U$ 1 - UADS-5.75 Splined Shaft - 16.54U$ Shipping Options to Qatar: FedEx Economy-8 business days- $106.55--TOTAL 295.47U$ FedEx Priority- 4 business days- $114.55-----TOTAL 303.47U$ Any other solutions or compatible options? Regards, DJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 Have you tried contacting Woodward's European counterpart? http://www.woodwardsteering.com/Contact-EUROPE.html Of course, now you understand why I asked if you had looked into this previously, noting it's perhaps most critical part of the SFD for a several reasons, including costs. I've seen other solutions, but the Woodward approach is the cleanest. In essence, you need to add a 2nd u-joint to the upper part of the existing steering link, and also extended it a little. You'll need to do some homework and find a suitable joint from another vehicle. I'm aware that some guys in the past used some Honda u-joint, but I could never find any model or year information. I did an extensive amount of research on other vehicle options and came up empty. You obviously have access to other vehicles than we do here. If you can't find a joint that slips onto the upper gear/pivot box splined end, then you'll need to consider welding a splined end to it to adapt it to some other spline size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 There is a large club of R50 owners in Lebanon. They definitely should have information on local suppliers for SFD hardware. Most of their rigs are heavily modified. Try them on Facebook https://m.facebook.com/PathyQx4/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 There is a large club of R50 owners in Lebanon. Wow! Now that's an impressive set of pics on their latest feeds. Hard to believe there's a line-up of R50s with 33+ MTs in one pic! Doubt that's ever happened here. But yeah, great call on reaching out to those guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Wow! Now that's an impressive set of pics on their latest feeds. Hard to believe there's a line-up of R50s with 33+ MTs in one pic! Doubt that's ever happened here. Right? Pretty impressed with their consistent and regular activity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydenmidd12 Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Instead of ordering a the u-joints and the shaft is there a way to modify the stock steering shaft for smaller SFD like a 2.5" SFD? Is there a way to make like a spacer for the steering shaft instead on buying a whole new steering linkage setup? If anyone has modified the stock one or maybe used other steering set ups from a differant vehicle will you let me know how you did modify it and if possible post a picture of what it looks like even if it is on your Pathfinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 Instead of ordering a the u-joints and the shaft is there a way to modify the stock steering shaft for smaller SFD like a 2.5" SFD? Is there a way to make like a spacer for the steering shaft instead on buying a whole new steering linkage setup? If anyone has modified the stock one or maybe used other steering set ups from a differant vehicle will you let me know how you did modify it and if possible post a picture of what it looks like even if it is on your Pathfinder. Original SFD guys were welding joints from some Honda car model onto the OE link. Not sure what model, could never find those details. You can't just use a spacer...the OE link has a single joint in it, and a second joint becomes required when the distance between the pivot gearbox and steering rack increases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydenmidd12 Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Original SFD guys were welding joints from some Honda car model onto the OE link. Not sure what model, could never find those details. You can't just use a spacer...the OE link has a single joint in it, and a second joint becomes required when the distance between the pivot gearbox and steering rack increases. So they are using the honda steering or parts form the pathfinder and honda to make one ? and im going to look at prices today for the steel to drop down the subframe and if it doesnt cost that much i will probably end up going with the woodward steering just to be safe and not have to worry about modify the one i have now. unless someone has down the modify route and will help me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 I would just buy the Woodward one. All the homework has been done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 I agree with Hawairish. They're high quality parts and designed to work right. The components in question are critical to the control of your vehicle and if the junkyard parts or fab work fails the result could be fatal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortlandCH Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 Just to be sure, the spline of the shaft is not important in this situation? From what I can see, a 4" SFD contains: UA201113 - Upper U-Joint UA201108 - Lower U-Joint Custom UADS - Splined Shaft, 5.75" Besides assembling these parts together to make the link, is there anything else needed? Do the factory bolts work to put these together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) Spline of shaft isn't important, but it's the "stock" style that Woodward Steering uses for all their applications. You are adapting from Nissan spline #1 (113) to Woodward spline (201) to Nissan spline #2 (108).Nothing from the factory link is used; complete replacement. The u-joints have set screws on them, which is why you need to ask that the finished shaft have set screw channels on both ends. Edited May 6, 2017 by hawairish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortlandCH Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 You guys think Woodward is somewhat familiar with this request at this point? Or is it really uncommon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 They seemed well aware when I ordered last year. Just gave them part numbers, length and payment info. Had everything within a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 I'm sure they've gotten some repetitive requests, but really, the request isn't different from any other they get for any application. The u-joints are all modular and for any amount of shaft length, they want you to use their common shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortlandCH Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 I'm sure they've gotten some repetitive requests, but really, the request isn't different from any other they get for any application. The u-joints are all modular and for any amount of shaft length, they want you to use their common shaft. Sounds great. In honesty I just like having all my homework done for it so I dont custom order something and explain it weird and they have no idea what I'm talking about. All of your details are VERY much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortlandCH Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Don't mean to keep reviving this, but just thought I'd make a conclusion on how it went for me. I sent them an email stating everything we said here, and they got back to me with an invoice within a few hours. I called up the number, and the lady on the phone was very nice, asked me for payment information, and let me know they would have it machined and sent out as soon as possible. I expected about a week to get it in... The box was on my doorstep the next day. Superior service from these guys, and the parts look great. Just THAT much closer to finally putting together the SFD. Thanks everyone! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soninihon Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 I know this is a old post, but maybe you guys have idea. im planing on doing a 1" sfd only. so i can have the ground clearance. what part # would i need to extend the link for a 1"? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 IF, all 3 pieces fit with a 1" SFD, its the same exact part numbers. Just a shorter shaft. Keyword: IF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 On 1/27/2020 at 8:10 PM, Soninihon said: I know this is a old post, but maybe you guys have idea. im planing on doing a 1" sfd only. so i can have the ground clearance. what part # would i need to extend the link for a 1"? The NPORA FB group will often stray you wrong with R50. A 1" SFD is a lost cause, having personally attempted to install a 1.5" SFD; the constraints are the same. I've seen the hack jobs of others who have tried (can't recall if the guy referred to you just ended up stacking an extra rag joint in his link). After you've sorted that, then have fun modifying the motor mounts and replacing all the hardware with expensive longer bolts...to achieve less ground clearance. As speculated, all the steering parts will fit, you just need a shorter shaft piece. No one's done it correctly, so no one knows the right length. It's not a linear extension length, as the other guy mentioned. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 On 1/31/2020 at 2:02 PM, hawairish said: The NPORA FB group will often stray you wrong with R50 everything. FTFY 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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