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Aftermarket stereo issues


Gingy
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recently replaced the factory head unity because all it's features quit working. ordered an install kit from crutchfield and wired my new unit all up but only the front speakers work. I believe my path has a factory amp. could this be the reason my rear speakers will not work? Whats the best fix?

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This ^.

 

I ran all new wires when I did my stereo install. I didn't run the front speaker wire through the existing loom. I ran new wires and poked through the grommets. Zip tied to the existing loom.

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When I wired my front speakers instead of trying to get the wire through the rubber tube from the body to the door, I found the speaker wires behind the kick panels, cut them and tied the wires from my amp to the existing wires going to the door speakers.

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When I wired my stereo I found the PO had cut the original wiring plug and wire locked each.individual.damn.wire. Also they used a heap of electric tape so everything was sticky. So it was a matter of unscrew each wire, connect to the new stereo wire. Was a pita but in 15 mins I had my tunes back.

I threw out a heap of old electrical tape.

 

I hate the stuff lol.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all the replies. I guess i'll just run new wires. and yes i'm sure the fade is set to the middle and not just the front speakers. I even hooked up the power wire for the factory amp in the new harness. oh well. Thanks for the help y'all. Happy New Year

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If the speakers worked before, and they don't now, then something is up with your new deck or install. The factory amps (yes there are two) are accessible from the rear through the removable panel on the passenger side that you would use to change the bulbs. There is one amp for the front four speakers, and one amp for the rear four speakers. What I did was use jumper wires on these plugs to bypass my amps. It disables the tweeters as the amps have a builtin crossover but no direct wiring from deck to tweeter.

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silverton, could you describe how you used the jumper to bypass the amps? Pics would be great!

If the speakers worked before, and they don't now, then something is up with your new deck or install. The factory amps (yes there are two) are accessible from the rear through the removable panel on the passenger side that you would use to change the bulbs. There is one amp for the front four speakers, and one amp for the rear four speakers. What I did was use jumper wires on these plugs to bypass my amps. It disables the tweeters as the amps have a builtin crossover but no direct wiring from deck to tweeter.

 

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:clickdalink:

Here's how I did mine

:clickdalink:

and here's another way.

 

I kept the old amps after pulling them and have actually gotten a fair bit of use out of the rear one. I wired it with power leads, hooked the inputs to the cable from a pair of crappy earbuds so that I can plug an iPod into it, wired it to some salvaged speakers, and used it as a shop stereo for a few years. It's currently sitting in the hole in Rat Trap's dash where the radio should be and running the door speakers until I can be arsed to install a proper head unit. It actually sounds pretty good, and unlike the Sony head unit I had in my '95, it doesn't go into a silly demo mode every time I unhook the battery or make godawful beeping noises when I turn the engine off.

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  • 7 years later...

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