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maddmark1981

What bushing is this?

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Sway bar link, cheap easy fix. Both sides should be under $20 at local Napa/chain parts stores.

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Awesome... Thank you

 

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Nothing personal Bud, but you really need to download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and spend a little time looking at the diagrams, exploded views and descriptions. While questions are welcome, doing some homework first is encouraged and you'd be surprised at all the other things you'll learn that you run across doing that. ;)

 

B

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313f6eaf087f1d72fbdfdd35fd62ea5c.jpg

New parts, putting them on this weekend... I got both sides...

 

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ba4fa0d20abdbf3cca67df45855b57f4.jpg9281fc10b1761a780a3033cd11858aa7.jpg34f8c76aaaf368b7023c0b71abc99ff4.jpg73dcab2ed04c9e4054be6afbc57dd817.jpg6c8479873b2aaeb82ba8d9c96052eda2.jpg

 

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I'm not sure how much these should be torque at... They're not sitting perfectly in their washers so I'm gonna leave emjust threadded on and put the tires back on and adjust from on the ground

 

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b95e2e4a1887615a1bbebeb425334ffd.jpg

Here's my awesome weld job I did on the strut rod bushing rase

 

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I think that style of washer goes the other way. I could be wrong though. Probably doesn't matter enough to flip them around either.

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According to the FSM - FA37 its 12-16 ft-lb.

 

When you change that you might as well do the stabilizer bar bushings so everything can sit properly.

 

Looking at the bits of your frame from the pics I would do a tap test all the way to the back of the truck. I think you are going to be finding a few surprises along the way.

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I wasn't aware that the washers were on wrong, Are you certain that they go round to bushing? I copied the original assembly pattern.. When I get the stabilizer bushings I will check into it...

A tap test?

I haven't gone over it since this past spring, The passenger side rear frame over wheel well was rotted out when I got it, I went at it with the air chisel and fabricated a new channel sleeve and welded it into place... I know shes rough around the edges... Im gonna try to clean it up and spray it with undercoating again, salt up here on the roads is terrible for any vehicle.

Shes got a wobble in er when Im shifting and especially on the highway you notice it when I let off the gas and when accelerating ... I'm trying to get that wobble out of her by replacing bushings and bearings if need be but I'm no mechanic, I just dabble cause I cant afford a mechanic and I have lots of tools and It's fun for me.. I don't know what I'll do next cause the wobble seems to be in the rear

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That's the right way for the washers.

 

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I wish I could remember where I heard it. It is supposed to reduce wear on the bushing, catches less crap with the cups up.

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Like Adamzan stated he has them on the right way.

 

They should be more snug in cups though, so there really should not be any debris accumulating in them. These parts are cheap and will wear quickly if the rest of the suspension is out of whack.

 

If you had the cups inverted they would end up catching more dirt and worse you will wear out the bushing very quickly since the pressure put on them is not being dispersed properly.

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I wasn't aware that the washers were on wrong, Are you certain that they go round to bushing? I copied the original assembly pattern.. When I get the stabilizer bushings I will check into it...

A tap test?

I haven't gone over it since this past spring, The passenger side rear frame over wheel well was rotted out when I got it, I went at it with the air chisel and fabricated a new channel sleeve and welded it into place... I know shes rough around the edges... Im gonna try to clean it up and spray it with undercoating again, salt up here on the roads is terrible for any vehicle.

Shes got a wobble in er when Im shifting and especially on the highway you notice it when I let off the gas and when accelerating ... I'm trying to get that wobble out of her by replacing bushings and bearings if need be but I'm no mechanic, I just dabble cause I cant afford a mechanic and I have lots of tools and It's fun for me.. I don't know what I'll do next cause the wobble seems to be in the rear

When I first got mine it would randomly get a wobble when going over certain bumps on the freeway, like bridge overpasses. The only way to stop it was to either let off the gas or stab the throttle. After replacing all the shocks I assumed it was from the rear axle link bushings but none were blown out. I found that when running my tire pressure at 26 psi that it went away. I usually run mine at 40 psi. Which didn't make any sense to me but it worked. I ended up replacing all the bushings in the front suspension with polyurethane and went back to 40 psi tire pressure. Hasn't happened again. So try running your tire pressure at 26 psi for a while if you aren't already and see if that helps.

 

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That makes sense... I'll check em out right now...thanks

 

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It's the rear suspension bushings you should be looking at for those symptoms.

 

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OK, ... I'd like to have them all replaced but I can only afford one at a time... What in the rear should I be addressing? I looked into lower control arm bushings and they're expensive and apparently need to be pressed out and in again, have you done these before?

 

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It's the rear suspension bushings you should be looking at for those symptoms.

 

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I've never had to replace rear suspension bushings on a WD21 in the 10 years working at a Nissan dealer, r50's all the time for some reason. After replacing all of my shocks that was the first thing that came to mind was the rear bushings. It was after a quick trip offroading that I realized that after airing down my tires that the wobble was gone, after driving it for a couple weeks at a tire pressure of 26 psi never had it happen again until I put the pressure back to 40 psi. I do realize that wear and tear is dependent on the geographic region you reside. Out here seems to destroy anything that is rubber. Still haven't replaced my rear bushings, it's on the "to do" list. However I agree that closely inspecting the rear link bushings should be the first step in isolating this type of problem.

 

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