Stereo Issues in a 95 XE and new ATF fluid? And gearing.

[StevenT73]

Hey gang and please forgive me that I can't find the answer here so I must ask:

 

95 XE with 3/4 of the SE w/off road pack, Has a 8 speaker non-Bose stereo and I guess the Clarion system for this must have a external amp as I was playing around and decided to put my Sony head unit in as I already added JL door and rear speakers (Sounds suprisingly good) but when I used the plug and pray adapter to avoid cutting wires I had no audio.

 

I know this is the rule on the Bose setup and I have a 95 Max Bose cd/cassete combo unit that if I need to run all new speaker wires I want to use my two Sony amps if possible and use this unit as factory looks nicer. The pillar tweets as well as the rear ones I don't care about. I have page after page of Stereo wiring diagrams and am still stumped.

 

 

So am I missing something?

 

BTW, I know there are 2 school's of thought and I don't know what to do but on a 205k original auto the fluid isn't burnt but I worry new fluid and the detergent in it will kill it... Opinion? .. Other than slow engagement into 1st on cold mornings it works great. Other than slow engagement into 1st on cold mornings it works great. Funny thing is if you put it in 2nd first it doesnt do that...?

 

Your friend in Oklahoma

 

Steve

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=707172906050848&set=a.145929195508558.22064.100002744366245&type=3&theater

 

95 XE 4x4

 

Skid Plates

LSD

Sunroof

235's

Factory Alarm and fog's

Dual tripometers

Swing out spare

4 wheel disk's

Rear air deflector

Jim Wolf intake

Add on tranny cooler

Quest Alternator

New Radiator

 

205k original slushbox tranny... Other than slow engagement into 1st on cold mornings it works great. Funny thing is if you put it in 2nd first it doesnt do that...?

 

Soon to have SE climate control ( Shoud be fun ) anyone done that? And. what are the codes on the door jamb fpr type of rear and ratio?

[xterra]

Regarding the stereo, there are 2 amps in the 8 speaker unit. The rear speaker amp is behind the center console, and the front speaker amp is in the back behind a trim panel. Wiring information can be found here: http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/6726/kw/1995%20pathfinder

 

If you want to leave the stock wiring, you can build amp bypass plugs. Instructions are here (http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-build-an-amp-by-pass-delete-harness-t335534.html) with a pic below

[StevenT73]

Beatiful 2 door. Seriously. Mine is near mint as is yours. Will read the bypass info. It really sounds good with the JL speakers. I used a cd/cassette adapter and being a full logic deck you need not eject to play the radio, So I used one and then ran the wire out the back and fixed the door to be closed for hiding it. Its how I use it to have aux in. Works much better than I thought it would and its all hidden. Just hit tape and hello aux in. I still like my cd's and found 1 stand alone Sony cd unit that was available as a option but its fried and I can't find another. Would love to use the double din factory combo but I see so much conflicting info on how to wire it in to 2 amps or a 4 channel amp.... Headed to the pick a part, Maybe I will get lucky. I am glad I have the cable to link the stock deck and the single disc player. Is there a 2 in one that will just work?

 

[xterra]

Anything aftermarket is going to need mods - even if just bypassing the amps. You might try posting in the "wanted" section to see if someone has a factory unit.

 

I sacrificed the factory amp so that I could solder up the loop-back from the instructions I linked to before. My 1990 only had the 4-speaker setup, so just one amp behind the center console.

 

I upgraded to a small 4-channel amp (installed where the original one was) and a digital media receiver (USB only - no CD or cassette mechanism). I ran the USB connection under the armrest and have an iPod I leave in the truck. It holds enough music to drive from Nashville to Orlando and back with no repeats.

[Precise1]

Scooting this over to the 1990-1995 section...

 

B

[StevenT73]

Xterra: Am I correct in you have a stock deck with a small 4ch amp w/usb in and upgraded speakers? How well does getting a low line signal out of the factory harness before its amplified work? Or did you get a new deck and made the new amp work as if it were factory? Either way sounds like a idea to me. If I can get my stock deck to give me a good line level signal or I guess as long as you stay away from Chinese ones that RCA converters are much better than they were when I was into car audio (early 90's). Does the amp over ride the signal in if a usb device is plugged in/turned on? I have a Coustic amp thats not a bad little honest 80 watt or 20 a channel amp that has speaker out inputs but I have yet to ever wire a amp that way and like it.

[xterra]

Steven-

I did a complete audio upgrade.

New head unit: Pioneer MVH-X560BT. It doesn't have cassette or CD, just USB and AUX inputs. Regardless of the source (AM/FM, AUX, or USB), it always uses the amp.

New amp: Clarion XC1410. It has both pre-amp and line-level inputs, but I used the pre-amp with some good quality RCA cables.

New speakers: Rockford Fosgate P165 (fronts) and P1694 (rears). Huge difference. You'll have to check what works in your '95 since it's got two extra doors.

 

Wiring my new harness took a bit, too. I had to splice the adapter harness I got with the head unit so that power went to the head unit, amp signalling went from the head unit to the amp, and then the speaker outputs went from the amp back to the factory harness. (As long as you draw it all out first, it's a simpler process) I made the loop-backs mentioned above so that I could leave the factory wiring harness in-tact, but that was my preference. I know that some people would have replaced the wiring to all of the speakers, but our trucks generate enough road noise that I don't think it makes any difference.

 

If I remember correctly, it took a couple hours to plan everything out, 30 minutes to remove all the old stuff, 15 minutes to solder the new adapter harness and loop back, and then a 2-3 hours to install everything.

[k9sar]

more pop-rivets, screen and bondo to rebuild the bottom of the rear panel. Things that I had stored in three were falling out.